There are many other options to fix your 4x4. But for those of you who have posi-lok cable actuator kits, here is a "How-To" post that will hopefully help you figure out how to wire it so your 4x4 light will illuminate when the cable is locked.
Alright. Hold onto your butts.
***NOTE: I did not disconnect my battery. Do this at your own risk. Always use the proper safety precautions. Eye wear is important as you will be under your Jeep and you should also block your tires.***
The tools you will need are
-Phillips head screwdriver
-Ratchet with a "7/16" sized socket for the actuator housing and "3/8" for the screws that hold the old vacuum switch onto the firewall
-Wire cutters/Wire strippers/crimpers
-Something to cut with(I used my knife. This is for the electrical tape)
-Appropriate sized electrical connectors
This is your vacuum operated switch that connects ground and turns on your 4x4 light in normal everyday working systems. Well, get rid of it. You won't be using it for this set up anymore(unless of course you want to use your transfer-case to turn on your 4x4 light, which won't be covered in this post). It is on the passenger side firewall, next to the battery.
This is the plug/wire that you will be paying attention to. It is plugged into the thingy up above(it is labeled 4x4 in my picture due to a recent motor swap.) The color of the wire on mine is black with a yellow stripe.
I wanted to run my wire down the posi-lok cable itself, so I went to the bulk head connector on the driver side of the engine bay and un-did 6 inches of electrical tape to uncover the wire I needed. I cut it, and stripped it so I could use a connector of my choosing on the wire coming out of the bulk head
. Honestly, I left the rest of the wire in place because I didn't want to undo the rest of the electrical tape at this time. It won't hurt anything by being left there.
Here is the connectors I chose. They are for 16ga wire and you can get them at any autoparts store. I took the plastic part off because it is useless and just gets in the way.
I picked shrink tube that fit tightly onto the connector in order to get the best seal possible(I have yet to master the art of soldering).
I then slipped the shrink tube onto the wire before
the connector. I crimped the connector and used a heat gun to shrink the tubing. You can use a lighter but I find that heat guns are better at getting a consistent shrink.
I then got several feet of 16ga wire, I stripped it and crimped it onto the other side of the connector. I then covered it with shrink tubing(like the step above). I used that type of connector because it will be easy to undo if I ever need to and still be a good enough connection for everyday use. I slid a larger piece of shrink tubing over the connector and used the heat gun again. This will help ensure a water tight seal and it is easy to remove. I got out my handy dandy zip-ties and used one on each side of the connector to help keep the wires sturdy, after I re wrapped the main harness.
Then I zip-tied the wire to the posi-lok cable in several places(think key bends and where the wire needs to stay put, like next to the throttle linkage) and found connectors for the screws on the posi-lok actuator. Again, I removed the plastic part and used a heat gun to shrink the tubing after crimping it onto the wire. (Picture is before I shrunk the tubing)
I then created a jumper wire for the other side of the posi-lok actuator. This connects to the second screw to the top bolt that holds the actuator onto the axle. In order to use the connectors I had, I needed to up the wire size(I probably could have cut or bent a smaller connector, but I felt it was the best way to go.) The bigger side is for the bolt to axle and the smaller side is for the screw on the actuator.
Get it all cleaned and connected. I used a wire brush to clean the dirt and grease off of the actuator housing and posi-lok screws.
Pull posi-lok cable.
Watch 4x4 light illuminate, with the key on. (Upper light)
Remember, this system uses a switched ground(on the posi-lok actuator housing). Hope this helps.
Edit: This is for older models with the switch on the firewall. Newer models have the electronics on the cad itself from what I have heard.