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Unread 07-25-2010, 01:21 AM   #1
cubewhiz
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How to - Transmission Mount & Torque Arm Replacement

The other day I replaced my transmission mount and torque arm. The transmission mount I used was the Energy Suspension model (PN 3.1108G) used in some GM cars & trucks. I got the idea from Mean Max in his replacement thread. This is how I did the installation and things may not work out the same for you!

This was my original mount, probably at least 15 years old. It may or may not have needed to be replaced, but replacing it certainly won't hurt.


First, support your transmission. Then, remove the two nuts (5/8") that hold the transmission mount to the skid plate and the torque arm stud nut (9/16") (mine was broken from when I installed my transfer case drop and didn't really know I should have removed that nut )


Next remove the six bolts (3/4") holding the transfer case skid plate to the frame. My transfer case and driveshafts are missing from this picture, but yours should still be there (if they're not, your Jeep is not drivable and you should go find one! )


The transmission mount is held to the mounting bracket by two bolts (5/8"). Mine were stripped pretty badly, but I was able to get them off. I promptly replaced them, though, so that I would not have any trouble with them in the future. You may also have some sort of exhaust hanger on your mount, but mine was broken and I was not replacing it so I did not have to worry about this.


I cleaned up my mounting bracket a bit and removed the other nut on the torque arm stud. It should be the same size as the first. Since my torque arm was broken, I replaced the arm (4wd.com PN OAI18608.05 - $4) and the bushings (Energy Suspension PN 2.1101G - $5). I also needed some hardware (washers, nuts, etc.) so I picked it up at the local hardware store while I was replacing the bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the transmission. That all ran me about $2.

Insert into the longer part of the torque arm the a washer and a bushing. Place the torque arm in the appropriate location in the mounting bracket. Place the other bushing, washer, and nut on the top and tighten the nut up to 20-35 ft-lbs.

Place the new transmission mount below the mounting bracket but don't forget the preload plate (I did this and then had to unbolt the mount and put in there. Bolt the mount back up to the mounting bracket.


Bolt the skid plate back up with the six 3/4" bolts and install the bolts and washers up to the transmission mount using the included hardware from your mount. For the torque arm, use two washers and place tighten the nut to 20-35 ft-lbs.



The new mount has flat bolts instead of studs sticking through the plate, so that is two less things for your skid to get stuck on.

Here is a diagram of everything for reference.


Enjoy!

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Unread 11-03-2010, 07:33 PM   #2
YJ89jeepTX
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hey nice write up...do u kno the length of the two 5/8 bolts that hold the tranny mount to the the tranny are?
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Unread 11-03-2010, 08:24 PM   #3
4.7stroker
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NIce, I discarded my tq arm when I installed the Brown Dog motormounts with no issues (yet). I will be replacing my rubber tranny mount with urathane soon.

Dwayn
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Unread 11-03-2010, 08:48 PM   #4
AnonymousD
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I was told that the torque are is not needed, plus mines stripped out, so I just cut it off and am replacing just the mount.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 12:34 PM   #5
RSC17
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got that daystar bushing kit for the torque arm and they don't fit snug. there's slack vertically and horizontally. the hole that they sit in is still a perfect circle so I don't think it was reemed out. any suggestions?
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Unread 04-14-2011, 01:56 PM   #6
KYJeepMan1
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The torque arm bushing is very importent. My jeep was bucking badly in 1st gear. I found the bushing nut, and stud were very loose. I tightined up and now my takeoff in 1st gear is smooth. You may need to shim the lower nut so that it keeps the stud and bushings tight. Like a New jeep...
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Unread 05-02-2011, 03:03 PM   #7
portabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubewhiz View Post
Here is a diagram of everything for reference.


Enjoy!
Is there any reason the torque arm stud can't be replaced with a 3/8 bolt? (It looks like a threaded rod is shown)

Would I need a sleeve inside the bushings?

Thanks!

Last edited by portabill; 05-02-2011 at 03:06 PM.. Reason: Answered part of my own question by looking at the diagram again
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Unread 07-28-2012, 10:13 AM   #8
showtime89yj
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I have a 89pretty wrangler with the 5 spd peugeot tranny. I bought it used n someone never put the tranny mount back in. I bought a used mount but nothing makes sense of how this bolts to tranny n skid plate..anyone that could help me out would be appreciated! !
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Unread 07-28-2012, 10:21 AM   #9
Michaelgoesrawr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by showtime89yj
I have a 89pretty wrangler with the 5 spd peugeot tranny. I bought it used n someone never put the tranny mount back in. I bought a used mount but nothing makes sense of how this bolts to tranny n skid plate..anyone that could help me out would be appreciated! !
You'll need to look on the underside of the tans and see if someone put the bolts back in. If not, maybe Cube knows the length and pitch you need to get grade 8 replacements. If your trans mounts have studs you will need nuts and washers for those if you don't have the stock ones. You can test fit those at your local hardware store when you go to get the other bolts.
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Unread 11-10-2012, 06:40 PM   #10
RDRosie
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On the torque arm bushings, I found the replacements from Energy Suspension are not as thick as the original bushings... I considered this may be an issue, but then I noticed the original bushings didn't actually clamp together firm on the plate and instead idle on either side of it. Can someone confirm whether or not there should be a gap & space for the transmission to move up & down between these bushings or should they actually be compressed together? If so, I'll need to add additional washers under the lower bushing...

Also, I should note this replacement can be done without removing the skid plate -- follow the directions in your Haynes manual to:
1. Remove the nuts from the torque arm & transmission mount
2. Use a jackstand & floor jack to raise the transmission (very important to add the jackstand as a backup to your jack as your arm could get caught between a falling tranny and the skid plate
3. Remove the upper mounting nuts for the torque arm and transmission mount
4. Install new mounts & bushings (I also replaced my torque arm with a new one)
5. Be sure to align the torque arm into the slot in the skid plate and lower transmission
6. Tighten the torque arm and if needed shift the transmission over to align bolt holes in the mount with the skid plate (I just shoved it over a bit by hand)
7. Tighten bolts for transmission mount and check the torque arm again

All done!

It was a simple install and shifting has improved -- my old torque arm caught something and was bent/stripped and the transmission mount was cracked all of the way through (193k miles). Tomorrow I've got Brown Dog motor mounts to install!
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Unread 11-16-2012, 05:38 PM   #11
Dake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDRosie View Post
On the torque arm bushings, I found the replacements from Energy Suspension are not as thick as the original bushings... I considered this may be an issue, but then I noticed the original bushings didn't actually clamp together firm on the plate and instead idle on either side of it. Can someone confirm whether or not there should be a gap & space for the transmission to move up & down between these bushings or should they actually be compressed together? If so, I'll need to add additional washers under the lower bushing...

Also, I should note this replacement can be done without removing the skid plate -- follow the directions in your Haynes manual to:
1. Remove the nuts from the torque arm & transmission mount
2. Use a jackstand & floor jack to raise the transmission (very important to add the jackstand as a backup to your jack as your arm could get caught between a falling tranny and the skid plate
3. Remove the upper mounting nuts for the torque arm and transmission mount
4. Install new mounts & bushings (I also replaced my torque arm with a new one)
5. Be sure to align the torque arm into the slot in the skid plate and lower transmission
6. Tighten the torque arm and if needed shift the transmission over to align bolt holes in the mount with the skid plate (I just shoved it over a bit by hand)
7. Tighten bolts for transmission mount and check the torque arm again

All done!

It was a simple install and shifting has improved -- my old torque arm caught something and was bent/stripped and the transmission mount was cracked all of the way through (193k miles). Tomorrow I've got Brown Dog motor mounts to install!
Anyone answer the this is torque arm bushing should have a gap & space?
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Unread 11-16-2012, 06:36 PM   #12
jokerchief462
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No gap no space afetr all installed correctly.
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Unread 11-16-2012, 08:18 PM   #13
Dake
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Thanks I used Energy Suspension bushing and their was a gap I added washers to take up gap. The old ones where shot. It is like night and day driving now with the new ones.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 09:18 PM   #14
RDRosie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dake View Post
Thanks I used Energy Suspension bushing and their was a gap I added washers to take up gap. The old ones where shot. It is like night and day driving now with the new ones.
I too used those bushings and there is a definite gap...the washers will tighten it down a bit but I think there is still space for the tranny to move around in between the two bushings, right?

I'll pickup some washers and add them so it stops rattling.

-RDR
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Unread 12-03-2012, 09:23 PM   #15
RDRosie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by portabill View Post
Is there any reason the torque arm stud can't be replaced with a 3/8 bolt? (It looks like a threaded rod is shown)

Would I need a sleeve inside the bushings?

Thanks!
See the gap where it says 'Stud' between the two washers above the skid plate? Is that where you added additional washers? It seems like the washer with the larger opening just floats on the stud here and rattles...

-RDR
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