Ohhh, gotcha, you were referring to smoothing the shaft itself for the seal. I think I misread it the first time.
Originally Posted by George Orwell
question about the seals? i looked up the seal from napa # (11800) thats referenced on here, as well as the one from quadratech refrenced in another thread and they seem to be very diff. the one from napa looks like a thin o ring type seal and the one from quadratech that is recommended looks like a sealed bearing type oil seal any idea which one is right?
Originally Posted by mitchs1224 View Post
There is no seal on the passenger side differential with a 2 piece shaft, the seal is down by the disconnect , so when you install the one piece shaft you now need a seal on the passenger side diff... the axle tube isn't machine for a seal there (so there is no lip) in the tube, so the napa 11800 fits perfecly in there, just tap it in a 1/4 -1/2 inch or so...
Trust us, just get the Napa 11800, it'll work... There is also no need for a seal down by the disconnect now...
LUCY...2005 Unlimited "LJ" Rubicon Sahara #495 Build thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/my...hread-2778642/
BETTY...94 SE, Stroker 4.6, 4.5,lift,35"s,D30 Aussie, 8.8. Sold
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
i would like to thank jeep forums and everyone who answered my questions over the last few weeks, today i did the solid axle conversion and with the exception of a couple small brain fart's that where totaly my fault, the job went great, i pulled the carrier seated the new seal NAPA 11800!!!! , and replaced the drivers side seal while i had it apart, none of this would of been possible with out all the great info i found on here. the research i was able to do was irreplaceble!!
Just because I plan on doing this myself in a couple weeks, the plastic "slinger", is it really needed? Not sure if $8 shipping is worth it for a $2.99 part if it isn't needed. Could I just put a seal on the end of the tube and call it good?
just FYI the pictures on this thread are not working. I appreciate the time you took to put this thread together and I still found useful information from the written parts. It is too bad I can't see the pics it would make it even better. but again thanks for doing the work of writing up the conversion.
Does anyone have pictures on this? If I do this could I use the "outer piece" from my current axle. I am referring to the part that goes in the wheel bearing and is connected to the TJ axle shaft by the U-joint.
94 YJ 2.5 w/ 33x12.5's, 4.88s
Originally Posted by ThatGuyCollin View Post
as far as using your outer axle shaft my recommendation is to use the tj shaft and ujoint because it is stronger than the pre 95 ujoint. why do you want to use your outer shaft anyway were you not able to find a complete axle? because you can easily find them on ebay. you can swap in a 270 x ujoint if you decide to use your outer shaft. I just bought new shafts with new ujoints all as a unit.
Originally Posted by mustanggarage View Post
94 YJ 2.5 w/ 33x12.5's, 4.88s
I know you can buy a ujoint for a 95 wrangler and swap it into a 90 wrangler. I did this on mine. I am not sure if mixing the shaft ends will work. if you want the same size ujoints, one option would be to use a non CAD cherokee shaft. pre 95 they have the same ujoints. I know the 95 and tj ujoints are the spicer 297 x. I wrote it wrong above. they are supposed to be stronger. I don't know if you can just swap the inner shaft or not. but it is pretty easy to swap both to the tj axle and then they would match. you can find the drivers side shaft on ebay for about 50.00 I THINK the tj ujoint will work in the early shaft but I am not sure about that. the reason I think that is when I went to oreilly to get my new ujoint they sell one that it is for 87-06 wranglers. so they must measure the same. some have a grease zerk, some don't. I think the ones without the zerk are stronger. sorry I wish I was more sure and could help you more, on this but I only know what I have done.
that is what I would do. be aware the tj bearing hub will not work on the yj. once you get it on and put the brake disk on and tighten the lug nut, the wheel won't turn. so you have to use the yj hub. also, if most places tell you to use that napa 11800 seal. I found the EAS seal that I put in mine, I put the number on my page. anyway that seal is much easier to use.
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