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Unread 10-11-2011, 12:05 PM   #1
klrstew
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►►►How to replace a leaky passenger side seal on the Dana30

After searching a bunch here and other resources I decided to do a write up
on JUST replacing the (stock) seal on the passenger side of the YJ Dana 30.
(should be the same procedure for TJs)

Reason being, is that most of the threads on this subject are regarding
replacing seals WHILE doing the TJ shaft upgrades (or chromoly, any upgrade
to the shafts or any upgrade to the shafts for that matter) which
require a different seal then the stock passenger seal, and in a different
location. I found them very confusing because I just wanted to fix the leaky
seal for now and NOT do the upgrade at the same time.

So, here we are.



1. Drain dif oil. Might have to remove the tie rod in order to do so for it's just
in front of the dif cap. I had a really bad leak, so I didn't have to do this.

2. Block your rear wheels.


I know, I know I have trimmed my dif u bolts since this picture. I know some of you would notice that. lol.

3. Loosen lugs on passenger wheel.

4. Jack up front passenger side till wheel is off the ground, set a stand
in a secure part of the tube to ensure a good connection.

5. Remove wheel

6. Remove brake caliper from the disk with a 12mm socket (2 bolts).
Should be an easy removal they "should" only be on there with 14ftlbs torque.

7. Remove the 3 twelve sided bolts from the BACK of the hub.
You will need a 12 sided 13mm 1/2 socket to do so.
These "should" be at 75ftlb from factory. Turn your steering
wheel to the left slightly for better clearance. Also couple of
whacks of a BFH will give it a little encouragement to come out.
Remove the outer axle assembly. Hub axle and all. Remember, the stock
set up is a 2 piece axle. One outer, and one inner. Now remove the inner
axle. Start in the CAD houseing and work it all the way out of the knuckle
so the tube is clear from the pumpkin to the knuckle.



(Note: may consider PB blasting them the night before, these can be stubborn if you have rust)
Now, >>I<< removed the axle nut which cost me 1 breaker bar and a rachet
before running to sears for a 345ftlb electric torque wrench to remove this
son-of-a-b!T@h 36mm nut. But found out after the fact that it really isn't
necessary for the entire axle assembly will come off together
just removing the 3 twelve sided bolts in the back of the hub. DOH!


8. Remove CAD vac plate. Four 11mm bolts. Don't have the torque spec on
this, but I would imagine they are about 14ftlb. Good and snug, not more.
Make sure to put an oil catch or something to catch the oil when removing
this. There will be some in the chamber. Move it up and out of the way.
(Note: I placed mine in a plastic grocery bag before moving up and away so it wouldn't be dripping on my driveway.)



9. Remove bad seal. It's on the right hand side of the CAD chamber.
Get a crowbar/prybar or VERY large screw driver and push it in from the
knuckle side on the TOP of the tube unil it catches on the seal.
A couple of nice whacks with a BFH and it will pop right into the
CAD chamber where it will be easily obtained.
(Note: why top of the tube? I figure if you accedentally are too forcefull
getting that seal out and there is a slight chance of nicking the
tube, it should probably be the top where gear oil will rarely be.
Pick your poison if you will)


BAD SEAL:


10. Clean tube with some rags and brake cleaner, at the very least wipe it out with rags.
A lot of crud can gather up on the inside bottom of the tube.
Take some fine wet sand paper or some fine steel whool and clean the
seal seat a little. After this, dip your finger in the bottom of the CAD
housing and spread a little gear oil in the seat as well.
This will "help" getting the new one in. And man-o-man, is this the fun part.lol

11. Building our pulling assembly to seat the new seal. All the threads I read
before doing mine made this part seem so simple. IT'S NOT! This is where prep and
patience will be vital to getting that seal in correctly the first time. Took me twice.

11A. You have to build a wrench pull bar assembly which consists of:
1. A 24"-30" peice (or there about) All thread at 1/2 thick.
there will be some good pressure and the bigger the better
as long as you can find nuts and washers to fit.

2. 3 nuts to fit the all thread.

3. 3-4 washers with 1/2 hole to fit all thread. One to fit the
outside diameter of new seal (more detail later),one for the inside (tube side)
diameter and one for the outside of the knuckle and block of wood(more detail later).

4. Any block of wood at least 2x2 drilled for the all thread bolt to slip through.
11A. Order/get your new seal. NONE of your typicle auto parts places like
AutoZone or O'reillys had the RIGHT one. I went to auto parts store
that supply mechanics in the area. Moog part # 710202.


11B. BACK TO WASHERS! You need thick large washers, some people call them "fender" washers.
The idea here is to fit these large washers on the inside and outside of the new seal.
We will be "sandwiching" the seal in between the 2 washers we are going to customize.
You want BOTH washers to be ever so slightly smaller then the side you are fiting it
for as to not be too big to get stuck in the tube and not to small where it won't hold
the seal enough to pull it through.
(Note: I happen to have a stand up belt sander that I slowly grinded down the washers with
until I had the desired diameter, checking every couple of strokes as to not take TOO
much off and keep it round). You will just have to figure out how you are going to take
some of the washer off somehow. Dremmel, grinder, belt sander etc.)

This is what the parts look like:

Never mind the EXTRA holes in the washers, that was an experiment gone wrong. lol

11c. Practice assembly. Put your seal assembly together and make sure you don't feel a lip
between the inside washer and the seal, and make sure your outside washer is ever so
smaller then the tube side step of the seal. To ensure the inside washer will not get
stuck in the tube when pressing it in, go ahead and slide it in the knuckle side of
the tube. If it fits nicely, you're good. Can't get it in, got to shave off more.

nut,outside washer, seal, inside washer, nut. (the only inside washer I could find to fit
had a 1" hole not a 1/2" so it required yet 1 more washer to hold my inside washer) You'll
see in the picture.
12. we are ready to pull it through the tube and seat the new seal.

Screw on one nut about 2.5 inches from one end of the all thread.

Slide through the KNUCKLE side all the way in the tube until you see it in the CAN chamber

At the other end, slide the block of wood onto the all thread, then a washer, then another nut.


(Note: this is the nut we will be turning to pull the seal through with).

Back to the CAD chamber, slip on your assemble and make sure you have all the right washers
in their proper order, screw on the nut that will hold it all together. Hand tighten enough
to where the assembley isn't all canty wompus, and enough to where you can force the assembly
so all the parts are all aligned nicely. Once everything is aligned wrench it tigher to REALLY
hold it all in place.

THIS PIC IS BEFORE i TIGHTENED IT ALL UP WITH THE LAST NUT.


Slide the assembly into place (right) and hold it there until you tighten the knuckle end of
the assembly so it sits there STRAIGHT, AND ALIGNED WITH TUBE. (Note: Having someone else tighten the
kuckle side nut while you hold everything straight will be very helpfull).




Start turning that knuckle side nut. As this is happening make sure the seal assembly is straight.
You will see it slowly going into place with every turn of the nut. If it starts going crucked
STOP! Losen the knuckle side nut and get it all aligned again and start over. If it keeps happening
then one of the washers is binding with the tube and you have to take off more.
(Note: My all thread was spinning out of my CAD side nuts. I cranked on a vise grip, problem solved. See in picture.)

Assuming it's going in straight and nothing is binding it will slide into place. When the knuckle
nut starts to feel a lot tighter then when you where putting into place, chances are it is seated.
You won't know until you disassemble everything a take a look. Pray. LOL.

13. Put everything back together in reverse order.
AXLES: Getting the inside one to seat takes a little finess. Can't just slide it into place.
You have to angle it up, just slightly so it can seat in the dif.
4x Cad chamber bolts=A little tighter then snug, no more. (sorry didn't have the exact ftlbs)
3x twelve sided bolts=75ftlbs
1x Axle nut (if you did take it off like i did)=175ftlbs
2x Brake caliper bolts=14ftlbs
(I had to to bleed the brakes in the front)

14. Done!


Special Thanks to: Anticanman and firefighter315 for all they're wise input and holding my hand through the process.

Please, Please correct me if I'm wrong on anything above. This is my first writeup I hope it helps someone out
like this site has done for me, time and time again. Pay it forward, if you will. Thanks FJ!
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[QUOTE=Louie4;12189991]Your jeep looks good but it will never be complete :laugh:[/QUOTE]
Oh, MAN that's true and I just started. lol

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Unread 10-11-2011, 12:12 PM   #2
Anticanman
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Nice write up Stew! I'm just glad you can drive it around again.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 02:05 PM   #3
firefighter315
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Good Job Stew! Hopefully you have saved a headache for someone else down the road! Now go get that Heep dirty!
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Unread 10-11-2011, 02:31 PM   #4
Andywear
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Thanks for putting this together.
Would it be correct to say that the driver side would be along the same lines?
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Unread 10-11-2011, 02:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andywear View Post
Thanks for putting this together.
Would it be correct to say that the driver side would be along the same lines?
Along the same lines. The driver side seal seats just outside of the diff housing. With TJ shafts, the passenger side seal is also just outside of the diff housing. TJ shafts in a YJ D30, no real seat at the passenger side of the diff housing, but it works.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 06:46 PM   #6
klrstew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Nice write up Stew! I'm just glad you can drive it around again.
You and me both, brother. lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter315 View Post
Good Job Stew! Hopefully you have saved a headache for someone else down the road! Now go get that Heep dirty!
Thanks FF, you helped a bunch with this. And, yes! I plan on it!
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Oh, MAN that's true and I just started. lol

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Unread 10-12-2011, 05:05 PM   #7
jeepcrazy93
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I've been waiting for a write-up on this for a long time. Seeing a picture of the contraption really helped me see how it was done. I'm sure I could have found the seal locally but I ordered it off Amazon for $11.24. Bought 2 just in case.
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Unread 10-14-2011, 09:33 AM   #8
sebastian22
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Great job on your writeup...very good info there. Anyone know the part number for the driver side seal?
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Unread 12-06-2011, 09:01 AM   #9
cascivic
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great write up! i have a few questions.

is the vise grip there so the rod doesnt spin as you turn the nut out by the block of wood?
do you need to "sandwich" the seal between the 2 washers or can you seat the seal with your finger than make a pull with just a washer on the inboard side?

do you want to sell your contraption??
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Unread 12-06-2011, 10:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
great write up! i have a few questions.

is the vise grip there so the rod doesnt spin as you turn the nut out by the block of wood? Yes the caption on the picture says the all thread (rod) started to turn.
do you need to "sandwich" the seal between the 2 washers or can you seat the seal with your finger than make a pull with just a washer on the inboard side?
You're going to pull the seal with the washer on the outside of it toward the center of the all thread.
do you want to sell your contraption??
Hope that helps! And thanks again to Stew for this write up. Poor guy had both axles fail at the same time. Just rotten luck.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 09:39 PM   #11
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OH CRAP. I can see myself becoming very frustrated come Tuesday lol. Thanx a lot for the write up its going to make my job much easier.
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Unread 12-10-2011, 02:11 AM   #12
bigsquat
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i didnt think of doing it that way, nice. i did it from the driver side and just tapped it in with a seal installer srewed to a long wood dowel. i also saw a thread where a guy used a short piece of threaded rod stuck into the cad housing and just screwed the nut towards the passengerside to push the seal in instead of pull it.
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Unread 12-10-2011, 02:14 AM   #13
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my way was easy because i had the whole diff apart. wouldnt work otherwise. also i put a piece of pvc pipe on my shop vac to clean out all the dirt in the axle tube. its hard to get the axle in without touching the bottom of the tube
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Unread 06-02-2012, 07:41 PM   #14
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Found this write up because I am preparing to do the same repair. Thanks for nothing Haynes...Thanks for everything stew!

FYI, Autozone, O'reilly's ad Napa all have this seal. Instead of going through their B.S. computer, just ask for 710202 directly. $10.99 @ Autozone.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 11:10 AM   #15
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Great write up

The seal puller tool did the trick- what a life saver
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