How to replace intake/exhaust gasket on a 2.5? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
TheNewbie
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How to replace intake/exhaust gasket on a 2.5?

I just found a huge leak in the intake gasket on my 95 2.5 that's been causing it to run at 3000 RPM. I have the Haynes manual, but it makes replacing this gasket look like a 2 day project.

It pretty much has me taking off every single bolt, hose and wire on the manifold. But it only has a section on removing the manifold, not just replacing the gasket.

Do I really have to remove the throttle body, PS pump, all vac lines, EGR tube, radiator hose, etc...

Has anyone done a write up on this? I've searched but haven't really found anything too helpful.

Also, I usually use Permatex for sealing gaskets, but it says it's only for gaskets that don't come into contact with fuel. What should I use to seal this gasket?

Thanks


1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #2 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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I just went ahead and tried to do it without taking all that crap off. For anyone who may search and find this later you have to remove the PS pump bracket, but the rest can stay on. I just unplugged the vac lines under the throttle body to let it move more, and disconnected some electrical connection on the intake manifold itself. Not sure what it was. There isn't much room to clean the mating surfaces, but it should work.



Does anyone know what I can use to seal the gasket though? I know Permatex and RTV aren't good to be in contact with fuel. But I don't know what I CAN use.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #3 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 12:46 PM
Que89YJ
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...ifold-1063245/

The 2.5 and 4.0 are close. You have a little more room. The middle bolts on the bottom are a @##$#%$#. Also make sure and check your exhaust manifold for cracks while you have it apart.
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...ifold-1063245/

The 2.5 and 4.0 are close. You have a little more room. The middle bolts on the bottom are a @##$#%$#. Also make sure and check your exhaust manifold for cracks while you have it apart.
Thanks, doesn't look like he used any sealant at all.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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I've got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive...
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNewbie View Post
I just went ahead and tried to do it without taking all that crap off. For anyone who may search and find this later you have to remove the PS pump bracket, but the rest can stay on. I just unplugged the vac lines under the throttle body to let it move more, and disconnected some electrical connection on the intake manifold itself. Not sure what it was. There isn't much room to clean the mating surfaces, but it should work.



Does anyone know what I can use to seal the gasket though? I know Permatex and RTV aren't good to be in contact with fuel. But I don't know what I CAN use.
Your pretty much right on, thats how i did mine although the back bolts are really tough if you have big hands. What gasket did you get? the one i put on was crush gasket. Someone else mentioned checking the exhaust manifold for cracks, definitely do this, mine was cracked bad, actually looked like it had exfoliated in some areas.

Your limited slip differential sucks.

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Any video of the sound?
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
Your pretty much right on, thats how i did mine although the back bolts are really tough if you have big hands. What gasket did you get? the one i put on was crush gasket. Someone else mentioned checking the exhaust manifold for cracks, definitely do this, mine was cracked bad, actually looked like it had exfoliated in some areas.
This is one of the only times that I'm thankful for my tiny girl hands.

And the gasket is a Felpro gasket. It's one piece for both the intake and exhaust, and it's pretty thick so I'm guessing it's a crush gasket, although I've never heard that phrase used before.

I'm guessing that means I can just torque it down and it will crush itself into the gap and not need any sealant. Is that what that means?

It's pretty much ready to go back together, but I decided to let the carb cleaner and degreaser that I used to clean it dry for a while before I put it back together. I went through 2 full cans before I felt it was really clean. It's hard to get in between the head and manifold to really scrub it to shiney metal like I normally do with gasketed surfaces, but I'm fairly confident that it's at least grease and grime free.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #7 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 05:25 PM
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Yeah it should have aluminum or something on it that will let the manifolds crush into it when you torque them down. You dont want to use any sealant on the exhaust side.

Your limited slip differential sucks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Any video of the sound?
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
You dont want to use any sealant on the exhaust side.
You say "on the exhaust side". Should I use it on the head side but not the side facing the manifolds then? Or just don't use any?

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #9 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 05:58 PM
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You should not need to use any. Does the gasket have the metal i referred to?

Your limited slip differential sucks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Any video of the sound?
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
You should not need to use any.
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
Does the gasket have the metal i referred to?
Yep, one side is metalic and the other looks like a regular type of gasket material. And it's got to be at least 3/16" thick.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #11 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 06:03 PM
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Thanks


Yep, one side is metalic and the other looks like a regular type of gasket material. And it's got to be at least 3/16" thick.
No sealant required

Your limited slip differential sucks.

Quote:
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Any video of the sound?
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post #12 of 12 Old 12-02-2010, 06:45 PM
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i actually managed to leave the p/s bracket on, the last time i had it off i left the one recessed bolt off so i wouldnt have the remove the pump to remove the intake

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