[WillysJeeper]

If you have bought this part or are going to buy it and install it per Paul's instructions. Please post. This is one of the coolest things I have seen on Jeep forums.

[paultyler]

Manual Version Update: I have found that when the swaybar assembly is under tension, like when your Jeep is off camber or the ground you are parked on is not level, it is very difficult to turn the disconnecting bolt by hand because the disconnect button it presses against is under tension. This is the same scenario you face with traditional disconnects when you try to remove the pins when the Jeep is on uneven ground. It is almost impossible.

To eliminate this problem, you should put a spring inbetween the bolt and the disconnect plate. The original design includes this feature and will be present on the electric version. I recommend getting the spring out of the plunger on the motor assembly and then using some narrow PVC or sprinkler connectors in which to place the spring and the connector bolt.

Using this technique you mimic the original design of the system: If the swaybar is under tension the spring on the plunger (or bolt in this case) will pressurize when you turn the anchor bolt to disconnect. Once you do this you can go ahead and drive off and as soon as the swaybar tension is gone the pressure in the spring will disconnect the swaybar and hold it in the disconnected position.

Although this is not absolutely necessary it works great!

Hopefully you can get an idea from the pictures. The bottom line: find someway to use a spring to build pressure on the disconnect button in the assembly. This will eliminate the problem of trying to disconnect on uneven ground.

[cjb7804]

Hey Paul, On your switches, you were saying that you can use a 3 position Off-On-Momentary On switch, but had problems finding one. What do you think about using a universal ignition switch? I was flipping through a few of my parts books at work, and thats when I dawned on me. Let me know if you think that might work. Also, when you hooked up the wires, did you hook up both black wires to the same terminal and then the red and white to the same terminal? Thats the way I gathered, but wasn't 100% for sure.

[paultyler]

Originally Posted by cjb7804

Hey Paul, On your switches, you were saying that you can use a 3 position Off-On-Momentary On switch, but had problems finding one. What do you think about using a universal ignition switch? I was flipping through a few of my parts books at work, and thats when I dawned on me. Let me know if you think that might work. Also, when you hooked up the wires, did you hook up both black wires to the same terminal and then the red and white to the same terminal? Thats the way I gathered, but wasn't 100% for sure.

The black wires: one goes to the positive and one to the negative.

As for the switch, you would have to simply try. That is an interesting idea though. If you decide to try post your results here.

As for switches, 12voltguy.com does have on-on-momentary on switch. You could just leave one of the "ons" unhooked to make it an off. Confusing I know.

[cjb7804]

When you say the black wires will be one to the positive and one to the negative I'm not sure what you mean. The switch should have a power in and 2 power outs (one momentary and one constantly on). Should I just hook one up to the "On" terminal and ground the other black? Also the Red and the White go to the same terminal (momentary) or do they hook up differently?

[WillysJeeper]

Paul, I just went through the progression of work you did again...I'm blown away by the ingenuity. Fantastic!

[julietkilo]

EDIT, I JUST HAD AN IDEA...

Originally Posted by paultyler

The black wires: one goes to the positive and one to the negative.

As for the switch, you would have to simply try. That is an interesting idea though. If you decide to try post your results here.

As for switches, 12voltguy.com does have on-on-momentary on switch. You could just leave one of the "ons" unhooked to make it an off. Confusing I know.

Thats a great idea, but how do you back the motor once you are ready to reconnect? Would you not need a switch for the black wires and one for the white and red?

I kind of see it like this...

Black wires operate the lock mechanism to make sure that the jeep doesnt lock the sway bar while off road, but when you are ready to reconnect you turn off the lock switch.

The motor will need to run two directions right? IN and OUT, so you will need to momentary positions. One to momentarily drive the motor to the unlock position, and one to back it off the plunger when you are done.

Is this correct?

[s68139c]

Yesterday the national depot had 11 of these in stock, they are now at -1. Back order now in effect. This is where DCX start wondering why the hell these are a hot item.

[osburn]

Paul,
While I have no intention of connecting up my swaybar again, if I did, this is the way I'd do it. Hats off to you for coming up with this idea and making it work. To avoid having to read 5 pages (thus far) of this forum to get all the little details of your work, you really should consider copying your writeup and making a webpage out of it. I can't imagine using tylerlaw.com is the appropriate place, but if jeepforums.com can't help you out, I'd gladly put it up on the web for you. Kudos to you!

[paultyler]

Originally Posted by brfertig

EDIT, I JUST HAD AN IDEA...



Thats a great idea, but how do you back the motor once you are ready to reconnect? Would you not need a switch for the black wires and one for the white and red?

I kind of see it like this...

Black wires operate the lock mechanism to make sure that the jeep doesnt lock the sway bar while off road, but when you are ready to reconnect you turn off the lock switch.

The motor will need to run two directions right? IN and OUT, so you will need to momentary positions. One to momentarily drive the motor to the unlock position, and one to back it off the plunger when you are done.

Is this correct?

The black wires operate the lock mechanism to make sure that the jeep doesnt UNLOCK the sway bar, i.e., it holds it in the disconnected position. When you are ready to reconnect you turn off the magnetic brake, i.e., remove power to the black wires. The plunger is spring loaded so it simply spins back to the connected position. The motor only needs to be powered in one direction

[RockWoRM]

Awesome! Great write up. U put alot of effort into this! Way Cool!

Would have taken me about 6 days just to type it all out!


On the tech side...

I read the whole thing... again, great idea, but this too, as YJ Mike pointed out, was my first thought. Will it artriculate as much as not having sways on at all when combined with YJ SUA springs?

Originally Posted by YJ-Mike

Paul,

Not to rain on your parade as I think this is an outstanding mod. But the Jeep website states that the electric swaybar allows 28% more droop/stuff than stock.

How does that compare to your numbers prior to this mod (using a calibrated eyeball of course)?

btw... did U post this in any of the other forums? just currious.

LET ME GIVE YOU THIS DISCLAIMER: Like many of you, I am not a mechanic or electrician. I am a simple hack/weekend warrior. Although the modifications I describe in this write up are working great for me, you need to be the final judge of how to do this modification. If you find any mistakes or things you would do differently, PLEASE POST THEM HERE!

nice disclaimer, but it sure sounds like something a Lawyer would come up with!!!




WoRM

[paultyler]

Originally Posted by RockWoRM

Awesome! Great write up. U put alot of effort into this! Way Cool!

Would have taken me about 6 days just to type it all out!


On the tech side...

I read the whole thing... again, great idea, but this too, as YJ Mike pointed out, was my first thought. Will it artriculate as much as not having sways on at all when combined with YJ SUA springs?



btw... did U post this in any of the other forums? just currious.




nice disclaimer, but it sure sounds like something a Lawyer would come up with!!!




WoRM

It would have to articulate just as well, as long as your links are long enough. I mention that in the article. If your links are too short, that could "hang" the axle on the sway bar links. It would be the same as having shocks that are too short. Your suspension can hang or bottom out on shocks as well.

If anyone installs this swaybar system you really do need to cycle the suspension to make sure the links are long enough and to make sure the swaybar arms do not hit the brake lines. Mine did.

This is the only forum I posted this on...I'm dedicated.

[julietkilo]

Originally Posted by paultyler

This is the only forum I posted this on...I'm dedicated.

I am sure that because of all the hits this website gets with users and visitors it will spread like wild fire!!!

You will be known as "Paul the Pioneer", can you hear the crowds now chant your name.

[mp3coupe]

Just called Warnock here in Jersey. It's on back order - not one warehouse in the country has one. My cost 68 bucks (going through a biz)

[julietkilo]

Go here I found a kit that will drive the entire unit. It has the ability to control both motors and is IC driven. This will definately be the way to go if you dont want to "learn" to operate the switches. It also has the power required for operation.

http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1918.html


L298 Motor Driver Dual H-Bridge Electronic Kit

The L298 is a popular dual H-bridge IC that is usable from 6 to 50V, at up to 4A total output current. By itself, the IC is somewhat diffcult to use because of the staggered 0.05" lead spacing. This kit includes the L298, a custom PCB and all other parts required to build an easy to use dual H-bridge module.

Features:
Four motor direction indicator LEDs
An onboard 5V low-dropout regulator which can be used to power the rest of your logic circuitry
Schottky EMF-protection diodes
Screw-terminals for power and motor connections
Female header connectors for easy logic interfacing
A small 1.53" (40mm) square footprint