How to put a 2007 JK electric swaybar in your YJ--WRITEUP WITH PICS - Page 11

**hondacr21** · 01-12-2007, 10:13 PM

Is anybody have a 4.0 that has done this conversion and if so what radiator are you using and if you could send some pics. Thanks

**paultyler** · 01-13-2007, 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hondacr21

so you can rotate just the motor? If so about how far is it from the sway bar to the shortest part of the motor. I got about an inch from my sway bar to my radiator.

1 inch sounds really short. I think the shortest part of the motor will need about 2 inches. Is your engine/radiator stock? There is more than 4 inches clearance on mine. Look at the first two pictures in post #6 and you can see the clearance on mine.

cueball · 01-13-2007, 08:40 AM

at a quick glance with a tape measure, i am a little more interested in trying to have this done on a TJ. There should be enough clearance under the sway bar cover for the motor. also, the above the frame/below the frame issue shouldnt be a big deal.

what i do see as being a potential issue is that i will need small YJ sway bar links.. stock links may be too long given the design differences on a TJ (until i lift it anyway - i was only planning a modest budget boost but that could work with stock YJ links).

$80 is a gamble, but i still may do it, as i can pass it on to a fellow YJer if it doesnt work for me and recoup my investment.

Cobra Jeep · 01-13-2007, 08:59 AM

I am with the others, there is something going on with your jeep. Because my rad is right on top of my stock bar, it is like 2 inches away.
Pic: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/JeepsAndGuns/Warn004.jpg
I picked up my bar yesterday and just measured it, and from the top of the bar to the shortest part of the housing is like 1 1/2 to 1 3/4, so if it is gonna clear, its just barely gonna do it.

I have a question, what did you use to connect it to your end links? The bolts that attach to my stock YJ bar are tapered, and the I.D. of the bushing is 5/8in. The hole on the JK bar is not tapered and looks like its either 7/16 or 1/2. Did you just find a steel bushing to fit inside the stock YJ end link bushing?

**paultyler** · 01-13-2007, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra Jeep

I am with the others, there is something going on with your jeep. Because my rad is right on top of my stock bar, it is like 2 inches away.
Pic: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/JeepsAndGuns/Warn004.jpg
I picked up my bar yesterday and just measured it, and from the top of the bar to the shortest part of the housing is like 1 1/2 to 1 3/4, so if it is gonna clear, its just barely gonna do it.

I have a question, what did you use to connect it to your end links? The bolts that attach to my stock YJ bar are tapered, and the I.D. of the bushing is 5/8in. The hole on the JK bar is not tapered and looks like its either 7/16 or 1/2. Did you just find a steel bushing to fit inside the stock YJ end link bushing?

That's weird. I have a 4 banger. Maybe the radiator placement is different? Moose, does yours have plenty of room like mine?

You can always put some sort of spacer in between the frame and the bracket to lower it 1 /2 inch.

As for the bolts, I went to the hardware store and bought some metal sleeves and slid them into the bushings so it is set up like your shackles.

**hondacr21** · 01-13-2007, 10:24 AM

I figured out what is wrong with mine whoever put the 2"bl even made or they came with these 2" radiator drop brackets so you dont have to cut the shroud a little I took them off and I have about 3" bwteen the radiator and the swaybar. and you say you can rotate the motor 360 degrees? sweet hopefully it fits

YJNate · 01-13-2007, 02:36 PM

i just junked my stock swaybar i should get my JK swaybar next week sometime. i cant wait hopefully it all goes well....

Cobra Jeep · 01-13-2007, 06:15 PM

ok, next question. I was out messing around with my jeep and I measured from the JK's bar centerline to where the link hooks up then went and measured my YJ. It looks like the JK bar is gonna end up over top of the axle because the "arms" are longer. Do you have a closer pic of your end links, cant really see them in the pics on the first page real good.

**paultyler** · 01-13-2007, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra Jeep

ok, next question. I was out messing around with my jeep and I measured from the JK's bar centerline to where the link hooks up then went and measured my YJ. It looks like the JK bar is gonna end up over top of the axle because the "arms" are longer. Do you have a closer pic of your end links, cant really see them in the pics on the first page real good.

I addresses that in the write up. You may have to weld on some tabs to the top of the axle to connect the links there. However, I was able to use the links where they already were.

00Vert · 01-13-2007, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98formulaLS1

ok heres my plan...

voltage AND/OR current can both kill a motor.

The lack of current carrying capacity can kill the motor, not the current itself. As long as you use large enough gage wires to and from the motor, you will have plenty of capacity. All we have to worry about is the proper voltage. Go for your test, that's why I suggested it. The wrong voltage will cook motors whether either too high or to low. Too low a voltage is even harder on an electric motor than too high. That's why power companies sometimes have to pay for new refrigerators when voltage drops too low. That's also why a 6 volt starter will work fine on 12 volts but not the other way around! Find out the proper voltage, then we can duplicate it with the proper calculation.

NewdRiver_ · 01-13-2007, 09:10 PM

Paul, is your setup waterproof?

**paultyler** · 01-13-2007, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewDriver95

Paul, is your setup waterproof?

Yes. Just use gasket sealer when you put it all back together!

**julietkilo** · 01-13-2007, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 00Vert

The lack of current carrying capacity can kill the motor, not the current itself. As long as you use large enough gage wires to and from the motor, you will have plenty of capacity. All we have to worry about is the proper voltage. Go for your test, that's why I suggested it. The wrong voltage will cook motors whether either too high or to low. Too low a voltage is even harder on an electric motor than too high. That's why power companies sometimes have to pay for new refrigerators when voltage drops too low. That's also why a 6 volt starter will work fine on 12 volts but not the other way around! Find out the proper voltage, then we can duplicate it with the proper calculation.

yup, go back a few pages in this post and read my calculations post. It can tell you how to calculate for amperage.

Paul04TJ · 01-14-2007, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hondacr21

I figured out what is wrong with mine whoever put the 2"bl even made or they came with these 2" radiator drop brackets so you dont have to cut the shroud a little I took them off and I have about 3" bwteen the radiator and the swaybar. and you say you can rotate the motor 360 degrees? sweet hopefully it fits

If you rotate it 360 degrees, you will run into the same issue.

Try it at 180 degrees.

Any one do a TJ yet?

FSTG60MAN · 01-15-2007, 08:26 AM

Has Anyone Found The Voltage For The Electromagnet Yet?

01-13-2007, 08:40 AM	#153
cueball Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: coatesville, PA Posts: 776 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	at a quick glance with a tape measure, i am a little more interested in trying to have this done on a TJ. There should be enough clearance under the sway bar cover for the motor. also, the above the frame/below the frame issue shouldnt be a big deal. what i do see as being a potential issue is that i will need small YJ sway bar links.. stock links may be too long given the design differences on a TJ (until i lift it anyway - i was only planning a modest budget boost but that could work with stock YJ links). $80 is a gamble, but i still may do it, as i can pass it on to a fellow YJer if it doesnt work for me and recoup my investment. __________________ Bye to the old - 1988 6 cyl 5 speed with a 94 rollbar, tomken 2x4 rocker skids and homebrewed OBA. Hello to the New - 1999 TJ Sport 4.0L auto.. stock for now Last edited by cueball; 01-13-2007 at 08:56 AM..

01-13-2007, 02:36 PM	#157
YJNate Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Crawfordsville, IN Posts: 49 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	i just junked my stock swaybar i should get my JK swaybar next week sometime. i cant wait hopefully it all goes well....