how to install TJ uppers on 1/2 doors w/ hard top - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 95 Old 02-13-2011, 05:03 PM
supersport126
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Great Write up!

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post #47 of 95 Old 02-15-2011, 05:39 PM
lawson1603
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taxes yj- great write up! Made me go ahead and buy a set of TJ's. I got them from the place and I cut the last pin and put them on they are tight but they fit nicely. They are a little hard to shut what did you mean by you had to trim the seals?? thinking it might make them easyer to shut..
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post #48 of 95 Old 02-20-2011, 04:51 PM
supersport126
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I also just picked a pair of TJ uppers today. I dont have a hardtop yet but now I'm in the market.
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post #49 of 95 Old 06-26-2011, 11:24 AM
jeepyj13
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can i just buy TJ door skin and use my frame put the new skins on and be done with it? cause before my cousin sold me his yj he bought a oem hardtop and kept the halfdoors and had upperdrs custom made to fit. my left dr skin zipper is beyond repairable so im just wondering will just buying doorskins will be easier to my already fab. frame.

"Its a Jeeps World, other 4x4s just get stuck in it."
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post #50 of 95 Old 06-29-2011, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
texas_yj
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no, I'm afraid the frames are the problem, the TJ frames are rounded at the top like a hard door is, you need the frames and skins to make this work. on page 1 is pics of the 2 style frames together

Sold) 94 YJ, 4.0L 5 sp manual, Hard top, 33/12.50s, 4.10 ring&pinions, Polished D30 w/Aussie front, 8.8 rear w/ LS, 2.5" RC, 2" BL, 5/8" booms, TJ flares, SYE, custom F/R bumpers and rock sliders, 8k winch, dual optimas, HO alt.

2) (Sold) 99 TJ, mustang 5.0 GT 40, AX15/231J, trektop, 37x12.50r17 cooper STT, superlift 6" long arm, D30/44 w/ ARBs & yukons, customized warn bumpers, custom sliders, 12K winch w/ synthetic rope, custom paint

3) 2007 JKU being built now
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post #51 of 95 Old 07-08-2011, 09:10 PM
jeepyj13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texas_yj View Post
no, I'm afraid the frames are the problem, the TJ frames are rounded at the top like a hard door is, you need the frames and skins to make this work. on page 1 is pics of the 2 style frames together
i found out today that my frame did in fact fit my new dr skin so im pretty sure i had tj upper on it before. i simply just switched frames. so i bypassed the whole pin cutting part. i have another question though i removed the yj door rail but when i slam the door it does close good but the rounded part of skin is a very tight fit on the hardtop is that normal? when i try to open it the latch gets hung up on the latch pin. i have to barely lift the door to open it. did you have this problem? can you give me any suggestions on how to fix this? otherwise than that it fits good with a great seal.

"Its a Jeeps World, other 4x4s just get stuck in it."
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post #52 of 95 Old 07-09-2011, 08:04 AM
BadHairDay
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Cool. Glad it worked out. I was thinking that you had a bestop supertop upper?

-Max

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post #53 of 95 Old 12-16-2011, 03:56 PM
jacobmc
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Has anybody used smittybuilts Tj door skin and frames I just can't get mine.to.fit
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post #54 of 95 Old 12-16-2011, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
texas_yj
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I have no experiance with SB, but I just checked my Chineese frames agains the OEM from a friend, and my new TJ had Bestops super top jobs on it, and the frame are Identicle! This swap does take some time to get everything lined up right, I'm bretty good with body work, and still had about an hour into tweeking everything little bits to get that perfect fit (visually, functionally; they were hard to close, they fit very tight, and bend in more than YJ frames, but that made it seal better too.)

Sold) 94 YJ, 4.0L 5 sp manual, Hard top, 33/12.50s, 4.10 ring&pinions, Polished D30 w/Aussie front, 8.8 rear w/ LS, 2.5" RC, 2" BL, 5/8" booms, TJ flares, SYE, custom F/R bumpers and rock sliders, 8k winch, dual optimas, HO alt.

2) (Sold) 99 TJ, mustang 5.0 GT 40, AX15/231J, trektop, 37x12.50r17 cooper STT, superlift 6" long arm, D30/44 w/ ARBs & yukons, customized warn bumpers, custom sliders, 12K winch w/ synthetic rope, custom paint

3) 2007 JKU being built now
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post #55 of 95 Old 12-16-2011, 04:51 PM
BlueDanube
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I can also say from experience that the Supertop soft uppers (or in my case the SunRider) will NOT fit a hard top, but ironically the full (hard top style) doors fit the SunRider top perfectly... Go figure.

The soft uppers are too long front to rear on the upper portion where the curved part is, and the lower contoured area is also too far back. Even though they're the correct "shape" they are the wrong size to fit in the hard top door opening.

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post #56 of 95 Old 02-10-2012, 01:18 PM
wGraves
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Bringing this back up. I'll post pictures as soon as I get home but I'm having a hell of a time getting this to work. Picked up some tj uppers on craigslist, they appear to be oem. Cut the rear peg off and installed them. It just seams there's no amount of tweaking to get these to sit in right. The doors are vey hard to open and close. If I take the canvas off of the frames they do fit but are tight in some places. It's starting to get cold again here in Ohio and with the doors not sealing the jeep doesn't stay warm at all! Any help would be great.
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post #57 of 95 Old 02-10-2012, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
texas_yj
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as you can see, I've got about 1/4 to 3/8" front, and a full 1/2" rear. As I remember from doing this (been a while) I adjusted the hard top front to back, and the distance from the pins to the metal flat bar at the bottom (so it sat just a little lower). the front was always a little tight, but the rear was never a problem, even the next year when I put the hard top back on for winter. try adjusting everything with the canvas off to make it easier to see whats going on.

Sold) 94 YJ, 4.0L 5 sp manual, Hard top, 33/12.50s, 4.10 ring&pinions, Polished D30 w/Aussie front, 8.8 rear w/ LS, 2.5" RC, 2" BL, 5/8" booms, TJ flares, SYE, custom F/R bumpers and rock sliders, 8k winch, dual optimas, HO alt.

2) (Sold) 99 TJ, mustang 5.0 GT 40, AX15/231J, trektop, 37x12.50r17 cooper STT, superlift 6" long arm, D30/44 w/ ARBs & yukons, customized warn bumpers, custom sliders, 12K winch w/ synthetic rope, custom paint

3) 2007 JKU being built now
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post #58 of 95 Old 02-10-2012, 02:58 PM
wGraves
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Here are the pictures of my jeep.









I still need to weld the 3rd peg back on and I think that might have something to do with the partial gap around the bottom of the door seal.
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post #59 of 95 Old 03-12-2012, 03:37 PM
bkeese
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I did this 3 or 4 years ago, but never considered writing it up.

Nice job!

1985 CJ7 - total customization underway, Sublime green and Plum crazy purple, Ford 9", 258 w/ Holley 475
1985,93 CJ7,YJ - L98 TPI Vette motor, Atlas twin stick, Dana 60s front and rear, Arbs, 39.5 Swampers
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post #60 of 95 Old 03-12-2012, 10:23 PM
MDCustom
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I picked up a 92 with half doors to scrounge for parts to use on my 95. The 92 has half doors and the 95 has a hardtop. I would like to do the TJ upper swap but shipping to Canada for frames is crazy. Unless I find a used set for sale locally, I may have to wait.

For those people who can weld (not me- yet!) Would it be possible to modify the corners of the YJ frame to fit the curve of the hardtop? This is how I would approach the job:

I would mount the stock, square cornered frame, into the door.
With the door closed, mark & cut where the curved corners of the hardtop contact the frame. (allow for 3/8" or so clearance for the material)
Then, bend some 3/8" rod ( or whatever diameter it actually is) around a radius form that matches the radius of the hardtop, or the TJ fabric.
Next, weld the curved section you just made back to the original frame.
Paint, and cover with TJ fabric.
Does that make sense? Would it work do you think? Would those welds be a weak point?
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