[pasinbuy]

I installed Aussie Lckers a couple weeks ago and listened to the directions about not having to replace the axel seals. They leaked, I was careful as could be when reinstalling the axels and to prove it I could not see anything wrong with the old seals when I took them out.

Now for my problem:
I rigged a tool to get the seals in after ruining the first new seal. On the passenger side I tried to use my homes made tool again. The tool I made was a long threaded bar and I placed a socket on the seal end and turned it in from the outside. I am having problems on the passenger side.. What is the best way to get that seal in? Help.

[pasinbuy]

One more thing. Haynes manual does not say, and my search in forum showed nothing.

[crf250racer]

you have to get something pretty dam close to the outside diameter of the seal. It has to have a hole in the middle to put a piece of threaded rod. Open up the disconect,put int the seal, put the socket or whatever you found in there, put the rod through and put a nut on the end. then find something strong to put on the outside of the axle with a hole in it to put the threaded rod through. put a nut on the outside and tighten.

Hope this mught help. It was such a pita.
Tom

[sentinal02]

Originally Posted by pasinbuy

I installed Aussie Lckers a couple weeks ago and listened to the directions about not having to replace the axel seals. They leaked, I was careful as could be when reinstalling the axels and to prove it I could not see anything wrong with the old seals when I took them out.

Now for my problem:
I rigged a tool to get the seals in after ruining the first new seal. On the passenger side I tried to use my homes made tool again. The tool I made was a long threaded bar and I placed a socket on the seal end and turned it in from the outside. I am having problems on the passenger side.. What is the best way to get that seal in? Help.

i've had good luck in the past with a similar tool. i use a couple fender washers on the end in place of the socket and use the tool to put pressure on the seal. then take a small hammer and lightly tap the end near the seal. i've got a small brass hammer i made back in HS shop class, but really and hammer or striking tool small enough to get into the housing should do the trick. you'd just trying to vibrate the setup with this, not trying to drive the seal into place. the tapping acts to break the sides of the seal loose in the seat and the tension in the threaded rod will do the work of pulling where it needs to be. you may need to tighten your rod up a couple times to get it to seat all the way as it moves around.

[pasinbuy]

Originally Posted by sentinal02

i've had good luck in the past with a similar tool. i use a couple fender washers on the end in place of the socket and use the tool to put pressure on the seal. then take a small hammer and lightly tap the end near the seal. i've got a small brass hammer i made back in HS shop class, but really and hammer or striking tool small enough to get into the housing should do the trick. you'd just trying to vibrate the setup with this, not trying to drive the seal into place. the tapping acts to break the sides of the seal loose in the seat and the tension in the threaded rod will do the work of pulling where it needs to be. you may need to tighten your rod up a couple times to get it to seat all the way as it moves around.

Sounds good, I will try it. At $10.00 a seal I cannot afford to ruin to many more.

[slingshot]

I'm not following here.
The seal is pressed in outward from the inside?

My driver's side seal is leaking. Do I need to take the diff apart to get to the seal?
What's the deal with the threaded rod?

[93YJfalcon]

I tried the dang threaded rod trick too (for an hour). It took me 10 minutes with a broomstick a hammer and a socket that is the same size as the seal.

EDIT: Yes, the seal presses from the pumpkin out towards the wheels. Yes, you have to remove the diff carrier to replace the seals. Might as well do them both while youre in there.