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Unread 08-18-2011, 09:09 PM   #16
oldtime_ironman
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 14304 Niagara Falls, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziptied View Post
Well I snapped the easy out of in te damn bolt. Any ideas how to drill through it? I have a cobalt bit but it isn't doing anything. I to the point where I want to exchange heads!
If the bolt is down in the hole by 1/16 then you can still weld a nut to it if yer real careful. The heat tends to pop the bolts loose. Then use a countersink to chamfer over the last thread in the head. - you won't miss it anyhow. Just make sure the weld doesn't hit cast iron - only the bare end of the bolt. Build the weld up in tiny spot welds till you got something solid enough to buzz the nut onto. Yes I have done this before.

Worse comes to worst take the head to a machine shop. They have the tools to do it. Most likely wire EDM.


Last edited by oldtime_ironman; 08-18-2011 at 09:12 PM.. Reason: clarity and spelling
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Unread 08-19-2011, 07:55 AM   #17
Alfons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtime_ironman View Post
If the bolt is down in the hole by 1/16 then you can still weld a nut to it if yer real careful. The heat tends to pop the bolts loose. Then use a countersink to chamfer over the last thread in the head. - you won't miss it anyhow. Just make sure the weld doesn't hit cast iron - only the bare end of the bolt. Build the weld up in tiny spot welds till you got something solid enough to buzz the nut onto. Yes I have done this before.

Worse comes to worst take the head to a machine shop. They have the tools to do it. Most likely wire EDM.
Good advise. When you have a broken bolt really seized, the last thing you want to do is drill a hole and use an easy out without really heating up the bolt.

If you're planning on trying the "nut weld" solution yourself, here's an easier approach that gives you better adhesion to the broken bolt, easier to weld, and creates less damage because you can see what you're doing. Use a washer first. place the washer over the broken bolt (I hold it against the material - head in this case, with a magnet) and then MIG the broken bolt from the center out to the washer & fill up this area flush. You'll end up with good penetration to both the bolt and washer and now you can place a nut of any reasonable size onto the washer and weld the nut to it around the outside instead of trying to fiddle around trying to make a good weld through a small hole in the nut. Now the broken bolt should have enough heat and a socket and ratchet should take it out easily.

If you aren't planning on fixing it yourself, then take the head to a machine shop and they'll pull the broken bolts out for a few bucks. Trying to drill out a broken bolt, especially now that you have the hard easy out stuck in it, is pretty tough. Without proper tools, it's almost impossible to get the exact center of the broken shaft and then to drill straight, then if you want to use a heli-coil, it'll end up being off-set and at an angle, and in the end you'll end up using a machine shop to weld the hole shut and to re-drill and tap it properly. This is a lot costlier than taking it there in the first place to get the broken shafts removed.
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Unread 08-19-2011, 07:58 AM   #18
tdewit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfons View Post
Good advise. When you have a broken bolt really seized, the last thing you want to do is drill a hole and use an easy out without really heating up the bolt.

If you're planning on trying the "nut weld" solution yourself, here's an easier approach that gives you better adhesion to the broken bolt, easier to weld, and creates less damage because you can see what you're doing. Use a washer first. place the washer over the broken bolt (I hold it against the material - head in this case, with a magnet) and then MIG the broken bolt from the center out to the washer & fill up this area flush. You'll end up with good penetration to both the bolt and washer and now you can place a nut of any reasonable size onto the washer and weld the nut to it around the outside instead of trying to fiddle around trying to make a good weld through a small hole in the nut. Now the broken bolt should have enough heat and a socket and ratchet should take it out easily.

If you aren't planning on fixing it yourself, then take the head to a machine shop and they'll pull the broken bolts out for a few bucks. Trying to drill out a broken bolt, especially now that you have the hard easy out stuck in it, is pretty tough. Without proper tools, it's almost impossible to get the exact center of the broken shaft and then to drill straight, then if you want to use a heli-coil, it'll end up being off-set and at an angle, and in the end you'll end up using a machine shop to weld the hole shut and to re-drill and tap it properly. This is a lot costlier than taking it there in the first place to get the broken shafts removed.
+1 to Alfons. As I said earlier
Quote:
Took the head to NAPA, $14 a piece, well worth it.
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Unread 08-19-2011, 08:06 AM   #19
Alfons
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Here's a couple of pictures of the "washer & nut" approach (I found these bolts in the trash when I was cleaning up, so they don't look very pretty, and thought I'd take a couple of pics to share my technique) - this was done to remove a seized windshield bolt, it also works on the door hinge bolts etc. and causes the least heat damage to the paint (there will be some, but on nearly as much as you'd get just blasting away with the nut). To cut back on heat damage, I also use a piece of sheet metal with a hole in it to put over the work surface - this catches a lot of the spatter as well.



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Unread 09-04-2011, 11:08 AM   #20
houd1n1
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so the easy out broke inside the bolt and the head bolts are really rusty and isn't budging and I don't want to break it so what do I do now?
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Unread 09-04-2011, 11:35 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by tdewit View Post
Took the head to NAPA, $14 a piece, well worth it.
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Unread 09-04-2011, 12:03 PM   #22
G30SFF250
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I don't usually have luck with easy-outs.
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Unread 09-04-2011, 05:33 PM   #23
ApocalypseJeep
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I had this same problem. Trying to drill the broken bolt perfectly center with the head still on the engine is very difficult. I tried this and ended up drilling slightly off center and breaking the easy-out tip in the hole . I was beyond pissed! So I removed the head and took it to a machinist buddy and he got it out no problem. When I went to go pick it up, he said," If you would have just removed the head to extract the bolt, you wouldn't have drilled the hole off center, and that would have meant that you wouldn't have had to leave the head with me for a couple days. Besides, you had to pull the head anyway right?"

With that being said, if it ever happens to me again I'm going to pull the head and do it right. I'm not saying that it cant be done, but I am saying it is'nt easy. Especially when its the the stud closest to the firewall. Pulling the head isn't very difficult at all. The hardest and most time consuming part was cleaning the head and block for reassembly. Good luck!
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Unread 09-06-2011, 08:59 AM   #24
planedog
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It is my experience that you should always start with a left-handed drill. You can get these at Advance or Autozone. Many times the bolt will come out as you drill and at least you are not tightening the bolt up as you drill. You have to be a wizard or really lucky to get an EZOut to work without breaking.
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