How to - Fuel tank removal - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 71 Old 09-29-2013, 01:17 PM
Nelliebelle7
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Originally Posted by CrawlingForward View Post
Yeah, I forget who said it, but the supply line definitely is 3/8 on the tank side and 5/16 on the hard line side. Trying to use 5/16 to fit on both ends did *not* work, even with a heat gun, lithium grease, and excessive amounts of effort and trying to make an adaptor.

Eventually just ended up using 3/8 for the line and using a lot of overlap and multiple hose clamps on the hard line (the slotted kind, not the FI type that catch on themselves) and that stopped any leaks.

In terms of the rubber block, we had issues with that as well. For the vent line, I just left it and replaced the hose going to the T. The other lines just took a lot of white lithium grease and consistent pressure to get it through. When we removed the 5/16 line and replaced it with the 3/8, though, I just avoided the rubber squeezing all together and just ran it through the hole in the crossmember right next to it.

....man, this whole job was a PITA, though.
For all of you who have trouble with the hoses going through the rubber block... You can pull the block out with the hoses. It's open on one end and you fold it open. You can then place it on the lines where it should be and wrap it with tape. (factory did this) Then you feed the lines and the block back into place.

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post #47 of 71 Old 11-08-2013, 07:49 PM
dukeryder
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Ok so I'm replying here for future reference for anyone who did a search like I did and came up with 1/4" tubing for the fuel lines.

On the 1995 (late 96 build date), YJ has 5/16 and 7/16" fuel line (well mine does anyway). Just one of those stupid YJ things where different years can have completely different parts.
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post #48 of 71 Old 11-08-2013, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dukeryder View Post
Ok so I'm replying here for future reference for anyone who did a search like I did and came up with 1/4" tubing for the fuel lines.

On the 1995 (late 96 build date), YJ has 5/16 and 7/16" fuel line (well mine does anyway). Just one of those stupid YJ things where different years can have completely different parts.
7/16" fuel line? I have never heard of such a thing?
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post #49 of 71 Old 11-09-2013, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by dukeryder View Post

Ok so I'm replying here for future reference for anyone who did a search like I did and came up with 1/4" tubing for the fuel lines.

On the 1995 (late 96 build date), YJ has 5/16 and 7/16" fuel line (well mine does anyway). Just one of those stupid YJ things where different years can have completely different parts.
Mine is a 95 and mine were 5/16 and 3/8 as stated.

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post #50 of 71 Old 11-09-2013, 03:31 PM
Nelliebelle7
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Yeah, me too. 5/16 and 3/8. Something else that may help a little, I eliminated that short hard line that goes to the "special" hose before the fuel filter. Ran the hose right from the tank to the filter.
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post #51 of 71 Old 11-09-2013, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelliebelle7 View Post
Yeah, me too. 5/16 and 3/8. Something else that may help a little, I eliminated that short hard line that goes to the "special" hose before the fuel filter. Ran the hose right from the tank to the filter.
This seems like a good idea to me, I like it.

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post #52 of 71 Old 11-10-2013, 10:37 PM
dukeryder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelliebelle7 View Post
Yeah, me too. 5/16 and 3/8. Something else that may help a little, I eliminated that short hard line that goes to the "special" hose before the fuel filter. Ran the hose right from the tank to the filter.
I should have done this! I ended up buying the special Mopar 90* line, this option would've been much cheaper and easier too.

Mine most definitely had 7/16" line (I used 3/8 as the replacement). The crazy thing is that the return line hardline is of larger diameter than the main line, which is opposite of what's coming from the fuel pump (3/8" supply, 5/16 return). My guess is that someone once upon a time replaced the fuel pump and used the 7/16" line.

I swear this fuel tank R&R was the biggest pain in the @$$ job I've done to date on the YJ. That includes tearing the transfer case apart TWICE! (once to replace shift fork pads, once for SYE install).
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post #53 of 71 Old 11-11-2013, 06:46 AM
Nelliebelle7
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Originally Posted by dukeryder View Post
I should have done this! I ended up buying the special Mopar 90* line, this option would've been much cheaper and easier too.

Mine most definitely had 7/16" line (I used 3/8 as the replacement). The crazy thing is that the return line hardline is of larger diameter than the main line, which is opposite of what's coming from the fuel pump (3/8" supply, 5/16 return). My guess is that someone once upon a time replaced the fuel pump and used the 7/16" line.

I swear this fuel tank R&R was the biggest pain in the @$$ job I've done to date on the YJ. That includes tearing the transfer case apart TWICE! (once to replace shift fork pads, once for SYE install).
The good thing is that you won't have to do it again for a long time. Fingers crossed!
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post #54 of 71 Old 08-18-2014, 02:11 AM
fantomas
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Thanks for this write up! Just replaced the skid plate over the last week. A few helpful pointers I have for everyone: The fuel line is cheap enough that if you're going to drop the tank for any reason, buy 3' each of 5/16, 3/8 and 1/4" and proper fuel line clamps. Someone else said 2' was enough, but it is NOT (well it is, but the factory hoses were nearly 3'). We used 2' of each on the advice here and it was a tight fit getting everything connected because the tank had to be raised quite a bit.

We dropped the tank to replace the skid plate on Wednesday. Swapped the plate out within 3 hours with no real issues. Finally yesterday I went to drive it for the first time and the fuel hose must have dry rotted to the point that it leaked because we messed around with it. So we had to drop the tank again and replaced all three hoses. I have a late model '95 and got away with using 5/16" for the supply and return. The 3/8" would not fit in the block when we tried to get it back through the cross member. The gas tank connection is definitely 3/8" but we had no problem getting the 5/16" hose on.

Make sure the supply line is rated for fuel injection systems. The vent doesn't need to be, and I don't believe the return is under any sort of pressure either.
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post #55 of 71 Old 08-18-2014, 10:45 PM
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When I dropped my tank to change the pump, I took the tank to a local radiator shop to have it cleaned out - nothing like ruining a new pump with debris. I also changed the fuel filter and all the rubber hoses on top of the tank...found a vacuum line that was completely smashed from previous time the tank was installed.
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post #56 of 71 Old 02-21-2015, 06:21 PM
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Mean Max - thank you SO MUCH for this write up. I referenced this thread early this morning before heading out to Morris 4x4 and NAPA for the parts. The sizes and locations of the fuel line and vent lines were especially helpful.





Did the 20-gallon mod, replaced bad vent hoses, and fixed a big problem inside of the tank. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to fill the tank up to 20 gallons. The Warrior fuel tank skid plate was good enough for my needs, and was certainly heavier than the metal on the OEM skid plate (before it all rusted away).

I drilled four holes at the bottom of the Warrior skid plate, one for each low channel, to allow better draining of water that gets up in there. I then prepped and painted those holes.

Feeling good that my theory as to my fuel pump running at 100%, 100% of the time, seemed to pan out, and I think I have it fixed now.

I thought this would be a two-day event due to rain in the forecast, but it ended up raining elsewhere, and was a beautiful day to buy the parts at Morris 4x4 and NAPA, get them home, spend all day doing the jobs, and finishing in that same day. The sun felt great - and I'm now exhausted.
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post #57 of 71 Old 02-21-2015, 08:22 PM
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I've had to drop my tank too many times. It's a pain in the butt. I have a 8.8 and getting the assembly between the tub and the larger pumpkin is a challenge. I've learned to jack the jeep by the rear bumper a few inches to give additional clearance between the tub and the axle. With the 8.8 Id say it's a necessity and would make the job easier with the factory axle too Im sure. I've done the job alone every time and getting the assembly up into its spot is a challenge! B

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post #58 of 71 Old 02-21-2015, 09:09 PM
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You should include relocating the ground with it too! Great write up.
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post #59 of 71 Old 02-22-2015, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
You should include relocating the ground with it too! Great write up.
What's up the with the ground? I missed that part.
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post #60 of 71 Old 02-22-2015, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
Mean Max
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You should include relocating the ground with it too! Great write up.
I've had dozens and dozens of Jeep tanks out. Never had a YJ tank with a separate ground, but there is a ground wire in the sending unit harness.

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