How did you fix your rusted floor pan? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
PLHamp
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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How did you fix your rusted floor pan?

First off I do not know how to weld, I can solder pretty well by welding is another story. I have cut out the rusted portion of the floor and have a replacement pan/floor that actually welds or can be attached all the way around if I trim the rust and all the good metal back. I have trimmed all the rust areas back plus about 2-3 inches all around. Now my dilemma, should I pay for welding or is seam sealer and rivets good enough? Sheet metal screws and seam sealer or should I get it welded and then do seam sealer. I intend to spray the underside with undercoating to control any more rust. Seems the previous owner went to slammer and the Jeep sat for two years with out the plugs pulled and water pooled up just on the drivers side, rest of inside is fine.

Thanks for any suggestions!

Pat

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post #2 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 02:54 PM
YJSteveD
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In my YJ, some plates were riveted in
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post #3 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 02:55 PM
itsonlyatruck
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i would have made sure the ned pan overlaps the hole and just rivete it in with some silicone around the edges to seal it up.
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post #4 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 03:02 PM
MegaCabMan
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If your not concerned about beauty then just use some body panel adhesive and glue the panel in place. Then I'd cote the floor, inside and out with truck bed liner. the adhesive available at auto paint supply stores or online.

http://www.eastwood.com/no-weld-pane...FWJgTAodhDMR6A

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post #5 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 03:05 PM
MegaCabMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsonlyatruck View Post
i would have made sure the ned pan overlaps the hole and just rivete it in with some silicone around the edges to seal it up.
Iv seen this done and the silicone will hold water and cause the area to rust...the best bet is to use the epoxy panel adhesive.

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post #6 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 03:15 PM
roadyrob
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I did mine with rivets, has held up good

Do everything with a positive attitude, it won't always work but you'll piss enough people off to make it worthwhile.

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post #7 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 05:57 PM
castorriver
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I didn't know rivets was an option. i guess how it looks on the floorboard doesn't matter.

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post #8 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 09:50 PM
Dixierambler
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Mine was rusted out just like yours. I took the replacement panel and riveted to what good material was left. Then came from underneath with another piece of sheet metal and sort of doubled it up. Seem to strenghten it as well. Used a marine adhesive and sealed it up. So far so good.
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post #9 of 26 Old 03-08-2012, 10:51 PM
Jared24knapp
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I just did drivers side floor pan bent my own sheet metal and riveted down and then patched
The ocward edges with fiberglass and the rhino lined over the top and looks
As good as new to me
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post #10 of 26 Old 03-09-2012, 08:33 AM
Que89YJ
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What did you use to cut the floor with? Really nice clean looking cut!
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post #11 of 26 Old 03-10-2012, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
PLHamp
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I used a Sawsall, with a really high end metal blade from Bosch. I need to cut a little more then, based on the concesus, I am going use the newer style stainless steel body panel rivets, 1/4" and Seamsealer. I probably will leave punch outs on the corners for welds for later just in case. I bought a can of bedliner and intend to both front floors and underneath.

I really appreciate everybodys responses.

Pat
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post #12 of 26 Old 03-22-2012, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
PLHamp
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Just an update, the floor is trimmed and fits almost flush all the way around. I did have rust through on the rocker just below the JEEP logo. I trimmed a peice of sheet steel from Home Depot and got a punch and offset tool on line. That peice is in and I think I need to weld that unless someone has a better idea. I am going to put the diamond plate rocker panel protectors on and they cover the repaired area completely. I guess I could use riviets for that and then just bondo the rough spots. Ideas, suggestions. I came within an inch of buying a weleder from Northern Tool for $150. But never welded before and am not I want to start now, although this is a Jeep.

PLH
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post #13 of 26 Old 03-22-2012, 05:53 PM
animal0307
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The OP of my jeep used sheet metal screws i believe. If I ever have to do it I will be welding them in.
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post #14 of 26 Old 03-22-2012, 06:58 PM
ldso
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I just left it rusty and put a big square piece of plate steel down, and secured it with sheet metal screws. If I ever need a base for my Hi-lift, I can take it off

But since you have the new pan, in the past I have used rivets and it worked fine. I have drilled a few extra drain holes in my tub because if you leave the windows and doors off you get standing water pretty often around here.

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post #15 of 26 Old 03-22-2012, 07:27 PM
deermjd
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PLHamp,

I was in your shoes about 3 months ago trying to decide what to do about my floor pans. I really considered using some automotive body panel adhesive or even some sheet metal screws. I had the same replacement panels as you. I was going to have the inside of the tub bedlined but I still wanted it to look good. I ended up paying someone to weld in the new floor panels and I haven't looked back. To me it was worth every penny. My$0.02

Not the best picture but it's all I could find.

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