How-To: BA-10/5 Tranny fluid change write-up. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 35 Old 06-09-2010, 11:49 AM
jusber15
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Awesome write-up! One suggestion that might save a lot of time and headache. When you grind down an extension to fit the plug filler, dont use a cheap one. Use a good craftsman one for two reasons. One being that when you are done with it or need the extension, you can just return it to sears for a new one, free of charge. Next reason being that if you use an el-cheapo like I did, the damn end of it snapped off in my plug. Thankfully I was able to grab a hold of the outside of the filler plug with a small pipe wrench and break it loose. i doubt this would happen with quality, made in the USA steel. I would even suggest cutting the extension back farther onto the shank so you dont have the little ball, spring, and hole they drill into the end of the extension to hold the socket on to further weaken the extension after you grind it down.

Thats just my two cents. Thanks again!

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post #17 of 35 Old 09-06-2010, 09:20 AM
ericp2011
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I know this is an old post, but thanks anyways, it was of great help to me, got all fluid changed and she feels like a new one!
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post #18 of 35 Old 09-12-2010, 11:58 PM
mylightsrsquare
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Grey Pneumatic GPC 1010PP - 3/8in Drive x 5/16in Square Male Pipe Plug Socket

this looks to be the socket needed for the fill and drain plug i hope, i just ordered it. i tried to grind down the extension but i messed it up some how, i hope this socket will work. it took me weeks to find lol

1988 yj. 4.2l with a Weber and an ax15 swapped in
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post #19 of 35 Old 10-27-2010, 06:13 PM
mikeys91
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So what's the recommendation for the tranny AND transfer case? I am confused, because on this thread the OP say 75W90, but on this next thread(post #6), some guy is recommending 10-30W. Totally confused...........

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/m...n-plug-744768/
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post #20 of 35 Old 10-27-2010, 06:45 PM
Douglas S.
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The OP is talking about the Peugeot, which is not the same 5spd that came in later YJ's (they got the AX-15). 10w30 is the mopar recommended fluid for the AX-15. I used redline mt fluid in my Peugeot before I swapped it out and it made an enormous difference in the feel of the transmission and I suspect it extended its life considerably.

1991 Land Cruiser HDJ81

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post #21 of 35 Old 10-27-2010, 06:57 PM
mikeys91
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OK, because I think I have the AX-15 in my 91 Wrangler (4.0 HO), and that would fit with the recommendation. I just never heard of using motor oil in a transmission.
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post #22 of 35 Old 10-28-2010, 01:56 AM
Douglas S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeys91 View Post
OK, because I think I have the AX-15 in my 91 Wrangler (4.0 HO), and that would fit with the recommendation. I just never heard of using motor oil in a transmission.
I thought it was strange as well, but I've got a couple thousand km's running it in my AX-15 with no problems to report.

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post #23 of 35 Old 02-04-2011, 03:56 PM
lower7
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Thanks for this write up. 2 things I came across:

1, I went ahead and bought a small kit of the male pipe plug sockets. the 5/16 was too large on mine and I ended up using the 9/32. There was a little play, but not enough to worry about.

2, Do yourself a favor and put a floor jack under the t-case and drop the skid plate. Much easier to drain and fill. I bought a small plastic pump at HF to fill. Best $7 I ever spent. Plus I was able to address the surface rust where my plate meets the frame.

http://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lub...ump-40714.html

Thanks again
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post #24 of 35 Old 01-29-2012, 04:53 PM
copleydad
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Been meaning to post this, but now that I need to change my tranny flkuid again, figured I'd put this up.

The drain plugs require an 8 mm square socket, and you should never have a problem pulling or installing the plugs with this socket. It is the proper size for the drain plugs, and won't bugger it up like a ground down extension will.

As far as fluid for the BA 10, I use Redline 75W90NS (58304), which is the oil recommended by Redline, for the BA 10, and have had great results with it over Royal Purple, straight oil or any generic 75W90.

'89 Islander 4.2l 5 speed
'14 Grand Cherokee Limited 3.6

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post #25 of 35 Old 07-05-2012, 11:36 AM
swright227
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5/16 tool

You can order a 5/16 square "tool" from Snap On for $14.00. It's like a socket adapter without the little bump. Fits perfectly. I can't remember the part #, but you can find it using their website search bar.
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post #26 of 35 Old 07-11-2012, 12:03 AM
codymiguel
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taking care of this tomorrow after work, Thanks for the write up. I think most of my tranny fluid has drained out already or might just be 50/50 mud from the PO fixing the boot on top with duck tape. I hate half Ash mechanics ..
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post #27 of 35 Old 08-16-2012, 10:50 AM
Mediceagle
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Garage
Not sure if this is the right thread but I am looking for info about the flywheel in my 87 5 speed. Does any one have the teeth count on the correct flywheel I beleive either my flywheel, worm gear or starter is incorrect.
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post #28 of 35 Old 08-16-2012, 02:20 PM
trboxman
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NAPA part number NCF 88192 is what I just put on my '87 as part of a transmission swap and update. It is an exact match for the factory original unit that came on mine.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...192_0317634951

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post #29 of 35 Old 10-23-2013, 12:39 PM
krazybob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
This is a small, yet helpful write-up on how to do a fluid change for those of use with the BA-10/5 puegeot 5 speed tranny.

Supplies needed:
-3 Quarts 75W90 gear oil.(Your only using 2.45Qts of it) I used 80W only because it is cheaper and easier to find.
-1 3/8" cheap extension to modify
-2 6" extensions
-1 3/8" ratchet
-long nose funnel
-long tube multi purpose filler
-catch basin
-Rags
-Grinder

-IF you need to jack the rig up, jack and stands for the front end of course.




Getting started:
The first step is to "modify" the 3/8" extension to fit the Fill/Drain plugs. The plugs themselves are a 5/16" or metric equivilent square hole, hence the 3/8" extension. Take your grinder and take a little off each side of the extension head, keeping it square, untill you reach a 5/16" diameter. I did test fit mine a few times on the fill plug just to confirm fitment.

Next, get your jeep setup. After my lift, I do not need to jack up to do this change. Those that are stock, jack up the front end and throw it on stands. This will give you some wiggle room to reach above the skidplate.

Next, draining the fluid. I have a general rule that 'If you cannot get the fill plug off, don't even bother with the drain plug." Works well for me LOL. Location of the fill plug is on the pass side, about 3" up and halfway back on the trans, pic below:

Now, I happened to have the shifter boot and plate off at the time so that I could cut the tub a bit for shifter fitment after my lift. Seen here below is a secondary option for filling the trans if you don't want to get to the fill plug, a PITA IMHO. The vent tub just "pops" out and you can use it as a filler point. Just be shure to measure your fluid so you do not overfill.


Draining the fluid:
Once you have the fill plug squared away, you can start the draining process. The drain plug is located on drivers side rear of the tranny facing the rear of the Jeep. Pic below:


To reach this plug you need to use at least two 6" extensions, if not one 12". You can reach the plug from just under the tcase from the back of the skid plate.

Now this is where your long neck funnel comes in. I DID NOT USE ONE AND MESSED UP. If you get a very skinny one, you can fit it up thru the skid plate hole that I snapped the above pic with. Otherwise, your options are drop the skid plate and catch the fluid normally OR do what I did and you get this:


Filling the fluid:
At this point the job gets easier or harder. Put the drain plug back in place. Now filling for me was done via the vent hole at the top and only took about 4min time. 2.45 quarts.
If your going to use the fill plug, I suggest you get yourself one of those "one size fits all bottle tops" filler tubs. Usually sold where the funnels and catch pans are at advanceauto. They screw onto just about any oil bottle I have used. Then just squeeze the fluid in untill it starts to come out a bit at the fill plug. That is how you know it is full. Or you can measure what you put in.

At this point, your done. WOOOHOOO. You just changed your fluid.
All said and done, this took me about 30 min. 10 of that was cleaning up the mess.

Just wanted to contribute again gents. Happy wheeling, time for some snow driving for me

-Rusty
GREAT ! The pictures and explanation is just what I've been looking for I've been wanting to install Mobile 1-10W30 Syn for quite awhile, and now I know how to do it,,

Krazybob,, Mtn. Home, Idaho
My goal, is to die young,,
at a very old age
1988 YJ 4.2 5sp
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post #30 of 35 Old 10-23-2013, 05:14 PM
bpounds
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Been meaning to post this, but forgetting. With this fresh bump, now is as good a time as any.

Here is what I did for a tool for the plugs. It starts out as a 5/16" allen wrench. Two opposing flats are the perfect size for the plugs. Just carefully grind off two opposing hex tips to match 5/16". I've used this multiple times now (my tranny case leaks) and the fit is still perfect.


Bill
Dodge did not build my Jeep.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,GM HEI Ign, 5 Speed Peugeot, Zone 2.5" lift + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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