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Unread 12-06-2006, 04:18 PM   #1
yarosig
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Homemade SKid Plate

Anybody know any good links on how to make your own transfer case skid plate? Iit seems simple enough to just get a 1/4" thick steel, cut, and drill holes. Writeups anybody?

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Unread 12-06-2006, 04:50 PM   #2
bgredjeep
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No write-up, but here is a link to some pics of the skid I made for mine. Probably overkill using 3/16" wall tubing, then 3/16" plate to skin it, but I don't have to worry too much about bending this one.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/jeep/skid/

here is a pic frm the link above of the finished framework
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Unread 12-06-2006, 07:34 PM   #3
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thats sweet!
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Unread 12-06-2006, 07:37 PM   #4
yarosig
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If I build a flat one not a tubular one, what is the thinnest metal I can use? I like the tubular idea but I dont have a tig welder and cannot weld aluminum plate on their.
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93YJ, 95 I-6 H.O, 4" RC Lift, 33x12.5 Pro Comp Mud Terrains on 15x8 Series 51 RoCk CrAwLeRs, MM SE9500 winch, TJ Bushwackers, 4.10 gears, Magnaflow Exhaust, CV shaft, flat belly
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Unread 12-06-2006, 07:38 PM   #5
Big-n-Broke-YJ
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keep in mind a belly up skid on a lifted yj is a bit of a task considering you have to keep your pinion angles in check....

yarosig... i'd use 3/16 if i was building one... not too thin, and not too thick... just right unless you really enjoy bashing your undercarriage on rocks, then 1/4" would be a nice upgrade.
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'89 Wrangler, 4.0/AW4, 106" Wheelbase, SOA, custom XJ packs, 2" Body. Front High Pinion Dana 44 w/yukon super-joints, chromo inners and outers, and a Lincoln Locker. Rear Dana 60 w/Yukon 1.5" 35 Spline chomo shafts and detroit locker. 5.38 Yukon Gears. Hydro-Assist, 39.5x18" Boggers on 15x12 RockKrawler's w/ 2.75" of backspacing. Comp cut, tube fenders, custom bumpers and rock sliders, fuel cell, CB, Stewart Warner Gauges, SmittyBilt XRC8 Winch, 140 Amp CS-144 Alternator, Electric Fan, and a cooler of beer. 3897 lbs

March 1st, 8pm. WILMINGTON, NC MEET & GREET @ HOOTERS!
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Unread 12-06-2006, 07:40 PM   #6
yarosig
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I know about pinion angles. I am installinga an sye this weekend and getting a cherokee front driveshaft. I just want to measure and shim everything correctly the first time not guesstimate how much extra length I should not be cut on the shaft.
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Unread 12-06-2006, 07:42 PM   #7
JeepRocks86
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I'm planning on building one for my TJ hopefully soon. I plan on using a sheet of 1/4" steel. I plan on putting a piece of plastic (like the Fabtech skid) There's more info on the plastic in the TJ section. I will also probably also use atleast a 1" TC drop kit to lower the overall skid an inch to help with the drive line angles. If it needs more than that, then I will drop it a little more.
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Unread 12-06-2006, 08:10 PM   #8
yarosig
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So if 1/4" thick works thats good enough for me. I''ll keep it updated this weekend, I plan on herculining the plate. Now I just hope welder can take it.http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...p?pn=100039229
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93YJ, 95 I-6 H.O, 4" RC Lift, 33x12.5 Pro Comp Mud Terrains on 15x8 Series 51 RoCk CrAwLeRs, MM SE9500 winch, TJ Bushwackers, 4.10 gears, Magnaflow Exhaust, CV shaft, flat belly
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Unread 12-06-2006, 08:18 PM   #9
Big-n-Broke-YJ
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shouldn't have any problems with that welder.

i have the lincoln pro-175 220v from lowe's and LOVE it.

practice makes perfect, remember that.

get your gas right... i'd run .030 wire and about 30 cfm or whatever it is of argon/co2 if it was me... and i'd probably hit it with 1 good pass after i tacked it every 6 inches or so. thats on my 175 amp welder though... i don't know your welder obviously..... only you can decide that.

remember you want to be able to remove the skid plate from the frame. make sure you remember that while designing it... don't be tempted to weld the skid to the frame.

-Erik <--- knows someone who did that. bad idea. lol
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'89 Wrangler, 4.0/AW4, 106" Wheelbase, SOA, custom XJ packs, 2" Body. Front High Pinion Dana 44 w/yukon super-joints, chromo inners and outers, and a Lincoln Locker. Rear Dana 60 w/Yukon 1.5" 35 Spline chomo shafts and detroit locker. 5.38 Yukon Gears. Hydro-Assist, 39.5x18" Boggers on 15x12 RockKrawler's w/ 2.75" of backspacing. Comp cut, tube fenders, custom bumpers and rock sliders, fuel cell, CB, Stewart Warner Gauges, SmittyBilt XRC8 Winch, 140 Amp CS-144 Alternator, Electric Fan, and a cooler of beer. 3897 lbs

March 1st, 8pm. WILMINGTON, NC MEET & GREET @ HOOTERS!
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Unread 12-06-2006, 08:23 PM   #10
yarosig
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Mine doesn't have gas, should I look into getting a mig conversion kit before I weld this thick?
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93YJ, 95 I-6 H.O, 4" RC Lift, 33x12.5 Pro Comp Mud Terrains on 15x8 Series 51 RoCk CrAwLeRs, MM SE9500 winch, TJ Bushwackers, 4.10 gears, Magnaflow Exhaust, CV shaft, flat belly
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Unread 12-06-2006, 08:38 PM   #11
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i've tried welding with flux core.. it sucked, period.

i've tried welding with a mig without gas... it was definatly not fun... and it definatly didn't look great, but it worked... after lots of hard work and efforts.

i weld with gas.... 75% CO2/25% argon mix if i remember right... i'll never weld any other way unless i learn to TIG.... i get clean welds with minimal splatter and a very predictable and controllable bead.

my 2 cents

-Erik <--- curious what you need to make the switch to gas
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'89 Wrangler, 4.0/AW4, 106" Wheelbase, SOA, custom XJ packs, 2" Body. Front High Pinion Dana 44 w/yukon super-joints, chromo inners and outers, and a Lincoln Locker. Rear Dana 60 w/Yukon 1.5" 35 Spline chomo shafts and detroit locker. 5.38 Yukon Gears. Hydro-Assist, 39.5x18" Boggers on 15x12 RockKrawler's w/ 2.75" of backspacing. Comp cut, tube fenders, custom bumpers and rock sliders, fuel cell, CB, Stewart Warner Gauges, SmittyBilt XRC8 Winch, 140 Amp CS-144 Alternator, Electric Fan, and a cooler of beer. 3897 lbs

March 1st, 8pm. WILMINGTON, NC MEET & GREET @ HOOTERS!
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Unread 12-06-2006, 09:15 PM   #12
accord387
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flux core will provide deeper penetration and it can provide good looking beads (you will have splatter though), its just not as easy. Mig is definately a better choice, but mig and smaller welders run into issues with penetration on thicker metals. I'm building my flat t-case skid as a two piece design. 1/4" carbon steel "H" with the center of the H being 1/4" angle to support everything and the sides bolting to the frame, and then bolting a sheet of aluminum to that as the actual skid.
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Unread 12-07-2006, 09:14 AM   #13
JeepRocks86
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I didn't realize you could get a welder that cheap. I plan on doing tacks on mine with a borrowed 110 mig (to get all the measurements correct) and then taking it to a friend of mine's shop to finish it with a 220. You will probably want to get the gas conversion. I haven't welded with out it, but friends have, and they say they get a lot of splatter and as stated above, it isn't fun.
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Stretched TJ , Coil overs, 42" IROKS, 60/14 bolt...
'95 YJ fuel injected 302, 8.8, cage, ARBs.
'04 QC LB Cummins 4x4
My TJ Build Thread.
www.kifourwheelers.com
For Sale:
TJ Rear Dana 44 shaftsfor sale
3 11"& 2 13" BBCS shocks



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Unread 12-07-2006, 09:26 AM   #14
atomicmoose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgredjeep
No write-up, but here is a link to some pics of the skid I made for mine. Probably overkill using 3/16" wall tubing, then 3/16" plate to skin it, but I don't have to worry too much about bending this one.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/jeep/skid/

here is a pic frm the link above of the finished framework
[img]http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/jeep/skid/Dsc03009.jpg[/im]
That looks nice. What do you figure your total cost was?
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Unread 12-07-2006, 11:14 AM   #15
bgredjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicmoose
That looks nice. What do you figure your total cost was?
the square tube was ~$32 (20'). I split the 3/16" plate with a friend so about $70 on that, and a few countersunk bolts from Fastenal.

It took a long time as I was doing a lot of test fitting to make sure I cleared all the driveline but the result was worth it. I'm going to do a MML as well to help the driveline angle but I'll have to get some floor out the way first

I welded it with my Lincoln pro-mig 140 using .035 flux core. Worked fine.
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