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Unread 02-21-2011, 11:15 AM   #31
giggityjeeper
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 4,024
Quote:
Originally Posted by plaidfro View Post
I asked my father in law his opinion about it last night. He's not a jeeper at all but is very mechanically inclined. He said "I think you could just bend your draglink into an S curve to get it to clear your leaf"...

I will keep reviewing my options
http://www.powerblocktv.com/video/?ep_show=XT

watch this vid, a good explanation of WHY NOT to do this is around the 13:20 mark....

they are doing a SAS on a full size blazer with a SOA application

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Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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Unread 02-21-2011, 12:17 PM   #32
jayhhaynes
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange Park Florida
Posts: 69
heres mine...
img_2293.jpg  
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Unread 09-27-2011, 11:32 PM   #33
coneal30
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: davie, Florida
Posts: 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering.html
Never a better time to post the silliness of how people can "improve" their steering all on their on. below is just a tiny example from the link above. I wish the guy would add more to his site ....


wow.. really?
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Unread 09-28-2011, 03:35 AM   #34
oldtime_ironman
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 14304 Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 2,540
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparFreak69 View Post
This statement couldnt be more WRONG. Cast STEEL is very easily welded and will provide a very safe weld when welded with sufficent heat. You are thinking of cast IRON which is very brittle and cannot be welded easily and if done improperly will be quite unsafe. I wouldn't hesitate to cut and weld on a cast steel part, I am however an experienced welder and I know what it takes to get a properly penetrated weld with the strength required for the stresses the part will be placed under. Ask any old time farmer the difference. They will know the whats and hows.
^^^^ x2 on this.
:
BTW it really bugs me how people can't tell the difference between forged and cast parts. There are so many myths out there about fabrication. Its easy to tell - just by looking at the part. Mine are forged on my D30 - I just went and checked. Look close at the "parting line". This is where the 2 halves of the mold came together on a cast part, on a forged part its where the 2 halves of the forging dies came together. I fine thin line is cast. A wider line (say about 1/4") is forged. Usually a forged part also shows grinding marks where they cleaned off the extra flashing. You also have to use some freakin common sense here, people! Highly stressed parts such as steering and engine connecting rods are almost *always* forged, for strength.


I wouldn't weld a knuckle that is going to be driven on the road unless I did it very carefully. And like MoparFreak69 says, I actually *do* have 20 yrs experience plus trade school and certification. IMHO the knuckle would have to be annealed and heat-treated afterwards, and then completely re-machined. This will lessen the chances of cracking due to different properties of wrought vs cast and having to deal with the grain of the steel enlarging. This requires a industrial controlled oven and machine shop, etc... prolly at about 1100 F for a few hours. I actually could do this at work but certainly not at home. Definitely use low-hydrogen or MIG or TIG and be generous on the heat and bevel the edges.
.

Last edited by oldtime_ironman; 09-28-2011 at 03:43 AM.. Reason: common sense
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Unread 09-28-2011, 08:24 AM   #35
SirChiefton
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mandeville, Louisiana
Posts: 59
Get the JB bracket. I just did this to mine. Take your time drilling the holes and tapping them. It took me about 4 hours, mainly because I rushed and snapped a 3/8" bit. The bracket works perfectly, my steering is way better. I'm SOA with stock springs.

Watch out about the dropped pitman arm though. I bet if it is long a drop it will make your bar hit the leaf spring. Mine has about a 1/2" clearance. I think I remember reading somewhere on her about this issue someone had.
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Unread 10-03-2011, 02:17 AM   #36
lionrenegade
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 40
I do not have soa. my lift kit is 4.5'' rubicon express E.D. and I use the sistem from http://www.goferitoffroad.com/ and is very good
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Unread 10-03-2011, 10:53 AM   #37
timatoe
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grass Valley California
Posts: 13,703
Quote:
Originally Posted by lionrenegade View Post
I do not have soa. my lift kit is 4.5'' rubicon express E.D. and I use the sistem from http://www.goferitoffroad.com/ and is very good
Won't work SOA, the Tie Rods will hit the springs.
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