[Dmax5er]

Originally Posted by whitie_08

how do you get the fork out to drill the hole? im stuck.

2 c-clips on the inside on the shaft.. make sure you take note of how it comes apart......excuse me 3 clips...

[James750]

Pull the 3 C clips off of the shaft

[plym49]

I would use Loctite on those cable ends to help prevent the screw from backing out.

Shrink wrap is easily cut or abraded, so perhaps cover it with some fuel hose if you really want it abrasion/cut/oil/water resistant.

For waterproof cables go to your friendly local bike shop. You can get throttle cables or even a clutch cable if you want overkill. Motorcycle-grade cables are plenty strong, have ends that won't pull off (some get soldered on) and are waterproof. You can order cables in any length you want and the plain black ones are not expensive.

In any case lube that cable once in a while. You could coat the (inner) cable with grease the first time you put it together. Cable lube (in spray cans or oilers) works really well; it is designed to wick itself end-to-end.

[MrBuick]

wow, took me awhile to find this Locking Push Pull part. Part number search could not find it.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7 311104&Description=Control+Cable+%2f+Push-Pull

[MrBuick]

Originally Posted by rockstedy

reappling WD40 and grease to shaft as i felt needed, after about 30-40 times of moving the fork back and forth with air, it was moving freely again and alot faster, put it back in the axle and 4X4 works again! YAY

I bet thi is what wrong with mine... it seamed like it was slow before it all of the sudden quit going in. the light keeps popping on every now and then while in 4wd.

[fireshadow]

Originally Posted by Ringwood

Ok guys, I'm having some trouble with the compression union. The ball washer goes onto the cable fine, and so does the nut. When I tighten the nut onto the union, it doesn't hold the cable into the union, it just falls out. Do I have to really crank that nut down? Or am I doing something wrong?

Also, does the fork assembly need to be re lubricated? I see a small nut that sits about the top of the housing when it's installed, which looks like one of those filler holes on the differential cover, but I don't know what it's for.




I went to a local hardware store, and they helped with this. I brought in the 1/4" compression union from NAPA, and they couldn't recognize the threads. I guess it's some sort of compression style threads. Instead, he hooked me up with a 1/4" compression union that uses NPT (national pipe thread) style threads. It is more common, and they had the drill and tap for it on hand. They were very helpful, and made sure I got the correct parts.

I just went on a scavenger hunt to find the compression fitting and tap. I ended up getting a 1/4" to 1/8" compression fitting at Lowes in the plumbing section. The tap came from NAPA part # t 301 or t 801 1/8" pipe tap. Just make sure it is a pipe tap if you are using a pipe fitting they are tapered like the fitting, and are finer threaded. I am now just waiting on the plastic coating to dry so I can finally do this mod. .

[DarkSteepJeep]

sorry to be a newb but how does this work. what are the pros i can do all of this at my house but i just dont get it.

[nfrank44]

does this mod llet you have both tires spin at the same time or wat exactly does it do? NOOB question i know

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by DarkSteepJeep

sorry to be a newb but how does this work. what are the pros i can do all of this at my house but i just dont get it.

Originally Posted by nfrank44

does this mod let you have both tires spin at the same time or wat exactly does it do? NOOB question i know

YJ's front Dana 30 axles have a CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) system that uses a 2 piece right side axle shaft & a vacuum operated "fork" to slide a splined "locking collar" back & forth to effectively connect (4WD) & disconnect (2WD) the 2 pieces of the right front axle.

The supposed "benefits" of having a CAD system were to keep the front driveshaft from spinning while driving in 2WD, thereby providing better fuel & reduced wear on some driveline components. The results were negligible at best, so for Wranglers this practice was discontinued with the introduction of the TJ in 1997. The TJ uses a 1 piece right side axle, which this mod mimics.

The reason this mod exists is because the vacuum system can be problematic. The vacuum switch on the T-case can fail, the vacuum lines can become brittle & break from age, or they can be snagged by debris & be pulled loose, the diaphragm in the vacuum actuator motor on the front axle tube can fail, the shift fork can bind, bend, break and the lock collar may not fully engage. Any of these problems will cause a loss of drive front the front axle.

Performing this mod will eliminate these possible scenarios. However, there's no such thing as a "free lunch" and so there are some considerations. Your front driveshaft will now spin all the time, and the YJ's front driveshafts were not balanced from the factory (TJ's are) because they weren't designed to be spinning all the time. You may, or may not have a vibration issue after doing this mod, but if you do you can get your driveshaft rebalanced at a local driveshaft shop. If you have installed an automatic "lunchbox" style locker in the front, you may experience some clicking (ratcheting) of the locker while turning.

I have not performed this mod on either of our YJ's because our vacuum systems have always worked. If I have any problems with either of our vacuum systems, I will consider doing this mod.

Hope this helps!

[DarkSteepJeep]

so this mod makes u maually lock or open the gear. instead of having a vacuum system do it for u. and when people say open lockers that means they are open all the time and it is 4wd all the time???? thanks again^^^^^ u have been awesome help

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by DarkSteepJeep

so this mod makes u maually lock or open the gear. instead of having a vacuum system do it for u. and when people say open lockers that means they are open all the time and it is 4wd all the time???? thanks again^^^^^ u have been awesome help

No, not the gear, just the right side of the front axle shaft.

This mod just prevents the loss of front axle power due to a faulty CAD component.

An "open" differential is the stock setup. It means that the spider gears in the differential will allow power to either side, and when there's no traction on one tire (in mud, tire in the air, etc.) ALL the power goes to that wheel, so you will effectively lose the use of that axle.

A "locked" axle means that BOTH tires will spin at the same speed, no matter what. This is accomplished by a manual (selectable) locker, or a "spool" type carrier. In addition to those, an "automatic" locker will allow 1 tire to spin faster if need be, but not slower than the powered wheel.

Clear as mud?

[DarkSteepJeep]

okay i get it. i will just pm u if i have any questions ha ha ah

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by DarkSteepJeep

okay i get it. i will just pm u if i have any questions ha ha ah

No problem, PM me if you need anything!

[plaidfro]

Originally Posted by Mean Max

YJ's front Dana 30 axles have a CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) system that uses a 2 piece right side axle shaft & a vacuum operated "fork" to slide a splined "locking collar" back & forth to effectively connect (4WD) & disconnect (2WD) the 2 pieces of the right front axle.

The supposed "benefits" of having a CAD system were to keep the front driveshaft from spinning while driving in 2WD, thereby providing better fuel & reduced wear on some driveline components. The results were negligible at best, so for Wranglers this practice was discontinued with the introduction of the TJ in 1997. The TJ uses a 1 piece right side axle, which this mod mimics.

The reason this mod exists is because the vacuum system can be problematic. The vacuum switch on the T-case can fail, the vacuum lines can become brittle & break from age, or they can be snagged by debris & be pulled loose, the diaphragm in the vacuum actuator motor on the front axle tube can fail, the shift fork can bind, bend, break and the lock collar may not fully engage. Any of these problems will cause a loss of drive front the front axle.

Performing this mod will eliminate these possible scenarios. However, there's no such thing as a "free lunch" and so there are some considerations. Your front driveshaft will now spin all the time, and the YJ's front driveshafts were not balanced from the factory (TJ's are) because they weren't designed to be spinning all the time. You may, or may not have a vibration issue after doing this mod, but if you do you can get your driveshaft rebalanced at a local driveshaft shop. If you have installed an automatic "lunchbox" style locker in the front, you may experience some clicking (ratcheting) of the locker while turning.

Well written... should be in the FAQs or a sticky somewhere..!!

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by plaidfro

Well written... should be in the FAQs or a sticky somewhere..!!

Thanks.

I hope it is completely accurate. If there's any mis-information in it, I would appreciate somebody pointing it out for clarification.