Home made POSI LOCK write up - Page 7

**bigsquat** · 01-14-2009, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ringwood

Ok guys, I'm having some trouble with the compression union. The ball washer goes onto the cable fine, and so does the nut. When I tighten the nut onto the union, it doesn't hold the cable into the union, it just falls out. Do I have to really crank that nut down? Or am I doing something wrong?

Also, does the fork assembly need to be re lubricated? I see a small nut that sits about the top of the housing when it's installed, which looks like one of those filler holes on the differential cover, but I don't know what it's for.

mine wasnt the tightest either, i had slipped the cable through 4' of fuel line and that is butted up against the brass fitting. then i used a short piece of 3/4"shrink tube and it sealed and held the cable just fine.

it gets lubed from the diff oil. any oil that you would put in there would drain into the diff and visa versa. just oil it up when you install it.

on another note, some people attach the inner cable to the fork with one hole, i used two holes. pushed it thru then back thru the fork. then put the cable clamp on. this was suggested to me by someone here and i followed there advice. with one hole there is a chance of pulling the clamp off.

Dmax5er · 01-14-2009, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ringwood

Ok guys, I'm having some trouble with the compression union. The ball washer goes onto the cable fine, and so does the nut. When I tighten the nut onto the union, it doesn't hold the cable into the union, it just falls out. Do I have to really crank that nut down? Or am I doing something wrong?

Also, does the fork assembly need to be re lubricated? I see a small nut that sits about the top of the housing when it's installed, which looks like one of those filler holes on the differential cover, but I don't know what it's for.

I went to a local hardware store, and they helped with this. I brought in the 1/4" compression union from NAPA, and they couldn't recognize the threads. I guess it's some sort of compression style threads. Instead, he hooked me up with a 1/4" compression union that uses NPT (national pipe thread) style threads. It is more common, and they had the drill and tap for it on hand. They were very helpful, and made sure I got the correct parts.

tighten it down til it snugs on to the cable housing just enough to hole the cable in place,, not too tight!!!, if you tighten it too much you will bind your inner pull cable..

**ZeroGravity** · 01-14-2009, 07:40 PM

Ok guys, I got it all put together and I got the compression union tightened on the cable. It appears to work, but needs some tweaking. When I take it off next time, I am going to do the two hole deal with the wire stop.

I still need to take care of the old vacuum system. Can I take a small piece of vinyl tubing and connect the two little male adapters on the round thing (diaphragm?)?

I have a bunch of pictures, I'll host them tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far.

**timatoe** · 01-14-2009, 07:45 PM

I capped mine all off with vacuum caps, about $2 for a package of various sizes. You can sorta see them here...

Dmax5er · 01-14-2009, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ringwood

Ok guys, I got it all put together and I got the compression union tightened on the cable. It appears to work, but needs some tweaking. When I take it off next time, I am going to do the two hole deal with the wire stop.

I still need to take care of the old vacuum system. Can I take a small piece of vinyl tubing and connect the two little male adapters on the round thing (diaphragm?)?

I have a bunch of pictures, I'll host them tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far.

just loop them with tubing..

**Ironworker709** · 01-14-2009, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmax5er

just loop them with tubing..

since your not using the vacuum lines anymore..why not eliminate the lines all together and cap it off at the intake manifold?

By the way,I'm thinking of this mod,while i was just up in central Pa mountains visiting family playing around in the snow, mine wouldnt lock in due to frozen vacuum lines I'm assuming from having moisture in them or the switch at the transfer case was froze,i had to get a peice of spare vacuum hose to carry with me when it froze up so i could hook it directly from the intake manifold to the front differential to lock it in

**bigsquat** · 01-14-2009, 10:59 PM

if you just plug the lines on the diaphragm housing, and the diaphragm is still intact, then it might hinder the movement of the rod. if your set on leaving that housing there, then just put a single loop of vac um line jumped between the 2 ports. that way the as the diaphragm pushes air in on direction it will equalize and not cause a vac um lock. does that make sense?

if you want to eliminate the incoming lines all together it wouldn't effect the 4x4 light if you have the type that is operated by a limit switch that is on the housing. if you have the type that is controlled by vac um ,then that's a different story,some of the lines will still be used.

**ZeroGravity** · 01-15-2009, 07:30 AM

Quote:

if you just plug the lines on the diafram housing, and the diafram is still intact, then it might hinder the movement of the rod. if your set on leaving that housing there, then just put a single loop of vacum line jumped betweemthe 2 ports. that way the as the diafram pushes air in on direction it will equilize and not cause a vacum lock. does that make sense?

That's what I what I was thinking.

Quote:

since your not using the vacuum lines anymore..why not eliminate the lines all together and cap it off at the intake manifold?

I am trying to figure out where the lines come from. I got the job done just in time to head off to work, and it was like 10* outside so it wasn't the most opportune time to play around in the engine bay. So you're saying they start at the intake manifold? I'll check that out. I gotta fly right now, but I'll keep you guys updated.

**ZeroGravity** · 01-15-2009, 11:08 AM

Ok. I got a piece of 3/16" tubing and stuck it on either ends. It was really hard the first pull, but is fine now. The return spring isn't strong enough to be reliable, though. I bought two at the time (one strong and one soft) so I'm going to install the stronger one.

One more thing...I bought the tubing and went to the gym right after, where I popped the tubing on. I tested it out in the parking lot (it works) and drove home. I took it out of 4WD on the T-case and I un "locked" the fork. It took a couple seconds for the spring to kick in, but eventually came back out of 4WD. On the way home, I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the jeep. It almost sounds like the fork didn't make it all the way home. If I keep it "locked" in 4WD, but keep the t-case in 2HI, both drive shafts will spin, will only the rear axle with spin?

FWIW, I gotta go to work, which is about 15 miles, with 5 of them light highway.

whitie_08 · 01-21-2009, 10:09 PM

is there another name for a compression fitting?
or a way i can explain it when i go to Ace harware tomorrow?

whitie_08 · 01-21-2009, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitie_08

is there another name for a compression fitting?
or a way i can explain it when i go to Ace harware tomorrow?

is this what im looking for?
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1292677&cp=2568454.2632222.263 2247.2632261&parentPage=family

**timatoe** · 01-21-2009, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitie_08

is this what im looking for?

No, take your cable into the local hardware store, go to the plumbing department and ask for a compression fitting. They'll be able to help you out.

Dmax5er · 01-21-2009, 10:40 PM

some call it a union.........

whitie_08 · 01-21-2009, 10:49 PM

thanks. plumbing department helps the most. and i meant to put union, i was looking at all kinds of stuff and put fiting, but i guess either will work.

thanks guys

whitie_08 · 01-23-2009, 11:47 AM

how do you get the fork out to drill the hole? im stuck.