Home made POSI LOCK write up - Page 6

tippmann243 · 11-12-2008, 05:58 PM

welp i think ive figured out what i need. i need a momentary on/off push button switch. it needs to have threads on it so i can thread it into the housing.

something like this should work.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062539

Kilroy08 · 11-22-2008, 09:10 PM

Just got done doing the conversion.

Now, my question is this........

I'm having to pull until my fingers hurt to get it to lock. Could this be the diaphragm vac-locking on me? Everything worked fine on the bench, but I almost ripped out the center console on my XJ trying to lock the axle.

The spring I put in was a little stiff, so I'll be swapping springs out and probably be showing the diaphragm who's boss by ripping it out and capping that end of the actuator tomorrow.

Dmax5er · 11-22-2008, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kilroy08

Just got done doing the conversion.

Now, my question is this........

I'm having to pull until my fingers hurt to get it to lock. Could this be the diaphragm vac-locking on me? Everything worked fine on the bench, but I almost ripped out the center console on my XJ trying to lock the axle.

The spring I put in was a little stiff, so I'll be swapping springs out and probably be showing the diaphragm who's boss by ripping it out and capping that end of the actuator tomorrow.

unplug the vac pod and try it.

**bigsquat** · 11-22-2008, 09:56 PM

mine was stiff the first few times i used it. once the lube gets everywhere it slips in real easy

if you still have the diaphragm on there and just plugged the ends it wont work. if your set on leaving it on then just put a a little vac line jumper between the two fittings, as one pushes the air the other sucks and should equalize. I like the way i did mine. Its the cleanest way I've seen. some people peel apart the diaphragm and strip it out of the housing and then try to bend it back together. looks like crap and a leek waiting to happen

Dmax5er · 11-23-2008, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsquat

mine was stiff the first few times i used it. once the lube gets everywhere it slips in real easy

if you still have the diaphragm on there and just plugged the ends it wont work. if your set on leaving it on then just put a a little vac line jumper between the two fittings, as one pushes the air the other sucks and should equalize. I like the way i did mine. Its the cleanest way I've seen. some people peel apart the diaphragm and strip it out of the housing and then try to bend it back together. looks like crap and a leek waiting to happen

do you have any pictures of how you done yours?

**bigsquat** · 11-23-2008, 11:16 AM

go back and read post#64, if you need more i might have some diff pics

Kilroy08 · 11-23-2008, 12:27 PM

Bigsquat,

That's exactly what I'll be doing to the unit when Thanksgiving break goes into effect on Wednesday.

I'm sure some of my Polish undercoating (Leaked oil from previous motor and road grime) could have got in and plugged the ports.

If I remember right, I had to clean them out after I bought the Jeep. It must have a good diaphragm.... If a port's clogged it'll lock up so solid that a Sherman tank couldn't move the shift fork.

Dmax5er · 11-23-2008, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsquat

go back and read post#64, if you need more i might have some diff pics

Ok did that , and i get it, but do you take any pics of the process of cutting and removing the vac chamber? i thought it was a diaphram in there but its not, i drilled a hole in it in hopes to destroy the diaphram, and there was not one in there..id like to see how you done it because i dont have another one just laying around and if i mess it up im stuck. Thanks

**bigsquat** · 11-23-2008, 08:40 PM

I cut the diaphragm housing off with a 4" angle grinder with a cutting wheel.

remove the little o -ring from the shaft in pic 2. if you don't it will vac loc.

cut the shaft with the cutting wheel to length,and bevel the end. cut just enough so the end wont hit the copper end piece that is soldered to whats left when you cut off the diaphragm housing.

in the 4th pic the red arrow shows where the large o-ring goes ( i put a new one on) the yellow arrow shows where the c-clip goes when you reinstall the fitting. and again you see the 1/2" copper fitting

**bigsquat** · 11-23-2008, 08:43 PM

one more pic

Dmax5er · 11-23-2008, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsquat

one more pic

Thanks for the pics, i like this setup the best, good placement of the spring. thanks for the help.

DeclarationDay · 12-08-2008, 07:30 PM

I just finished this mod! The only two things I did different were:

1. Insulate the cable with heat-shrink tubing.

2. Cut off the vacuum assembly with a recip saw, along with the protruding shaft (in full disengage position), and weatherproofed it with a plastic cap attached with JB weld. The blue painting tape is holding the cap in place while the JB weld cures.

This mod worked perfectly and is cheap / easy. Thanks to aurorajeep for the write up!

jeffrey919r1 · 12-28-2008, 05:05 PM

great write up! i will be installing this tomorrow
as long as my local napa has that choke cable.

in some of the replys i see someone asking if you can do it without tapping? even someone just drilled a small hole and siliconed around it? i'd hate to buy that jeep. this mod is susposed to eliminate faulty vacume lines and give you 2lo right? just dilling a hole and sliding a cable through is a jimmy rig. and for those you can't figure out how to use a $10 tap and drill bit, thats why posi loc sells a $200 dollar version maybe you should invest. or maybe get rid of the jeep and find a new hobby like accounting or something

James750 · 12-28-2008, 05:20 PM

I agree, I had a hard time finding a tap with the same thread count as my compression fitting, and found one eventually, I still siliconed around the top however to avoid any leaks.

**ZeroGravity** · 01-14-2009, 09:51 AM

Ok guys, I'm having some trouble with the compression union. The ball washer goes onto the cable fine, and so does the nut. When I tighten the nut onto the union, it doesn't hold the cable into the union, it just falls out. Do I have to really crank that nut down? Or am I doing something wrong?

Also, does the fork assembly need to be re lubricated? I see a small nut that sits about the top of the housing when it's installed, which looks like one of those filler holes on the differential cover, but I don't know what it's for.

Quote:

Originally Posted by James750

I agree, I had a hard time finding a tap with the same thread count as my compression fitting, and found one eventually, I still siliconed around the top however to avoid any leaks.

I went to a local hardware store, and they helped with this. I brought in the 1/4" compression union from NAPA, and they couldn't recognize the threads. I guess it's some sort of compression style threads. Instead, he hooked me up with a 1/4" compression union that uses NPT (national pipe thread) style threads. It is more common, and they had the drill and tap for it on hand. They were very helpful, and made sure I got the correct parts.