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Unread 09-03-2013, 06:09 PM   #406
blazer160
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I had a d30 with solid axles that broke, so I went to a d30 with separate axles that I got for free. I'm wondering if it would be better to try to put a solid axle in instead of a posi lock system. Can I just put a solid axle in that front end , or can I just make it locked full time without any problems?

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Unread 09-03-2013, 08:49 PM   #407
Anticanman
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Lock the fork and don't look back. If your original driveshaft didn't vibrate then you shouldn't have any problems.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 11:23 AM   #408
blazer160
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Thanks man ,that's what I was hoping to hear
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Unread 09-06-2013, 11:59 PM   #409
jwing
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I know I could probably find it if I read all of the post but it's late and I want to see if I can get a straight up answer before I fall alseep. If I do this mod can I just disconnect the entire 4wd vacuum harness and do the jumper deal at the diaphragm? This seems pretty easy but I'm pretty new when it comes to these kind of things. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Especially if there were pictures of where all the vacuum lines end up. Thanks
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Unread 09-15-2013, 11:24 AM   #410
linusb
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Yes, you can disconnect everything and rig it so the two axle shafts are permanently connected.
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1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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Unread 12-01-2013, 08:52 AM   #411
fishadventure
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In the midst of my minor '91 project that I let take a huge turn towards "major" I came across a '89 2.5l. I got it at a bargain. Needed minor frame patches, ran terrible, and 4x4 didn't work which brought about the bargain but I digress.

I first moved the c-clip on the disconnect fork shaft. Worked fine but got a lot of cyclic vibes above 35mph. So I took it apart and did the homemade posi-lok cable for the front axle disconnect. However, I didn't follow the common path

Parts:
  1. used the 9' recommended NAPA 731-xxxx cable $32 (in stock!)
  2. 1/4npt X 1/4 compression from ACE Hardware $4
  3. Control handle bracket made from bent 2-1/2" x 1/8" steel left from patching frame $1?
  4. 2 3/16" self drilling sheet metal screws (for bracket) $0.50
  5. 8 feet of 5/16" i.d. clear plastic tubing from ACE $3-ish
  6. 1/4" x 3" heat shrink tubing $3.49 (pkg)
  7. 1/4" stainless hose clamp from ACE $1.18
  8. 2 brass barrel cable stops for 1/16" cable NAPA overpriced at 2 for $4.59
  9. blue Locktite $6.49 NAPA
  10. RTV sealer ACE $4.95
So about $60 total cost.

Note there is no spring in the parts list...

I had a tapered pipe thread tap so drilled the housing with 7/16" final bit size and threaded it - dry. If you take your time and don't let the aluminum chips build up (and thereby gall, ruining the threads) this can be done dry. "Tap Magic" is a good tapping lube for Aluminum, but you still need to be careful with the chips, withdrawing and cleaning the tap fully each time the gullets start getting full of chips. An alternative tapping lube that works OK on aluminum is olive oil...

Don't go too deep- you want nearly all the threads of the fitting to go into the tapped housing when final tightened, but don't go too shallow as you could split the housing or break the fitting trying to get it to go home if too tight. I installed mine with blue locktite as the thread lubricant, and cranked the fitting in properly tight. This left about 1 thread width on the outside with about 1 thread width protruding inside.

I didn't install in the 'blank' spot in the dash as it is plastic, electing instead to mount it to a bracket I made which I screwed to the bottom side of the dash. There is a metal piece here that runs from side to side and seemed like a solid mount. In hindsight, the cable works so well it probably would have been quite fine in the usual blank spot... Anyway, I screwed the bracket to this metal strip just a bit left of the fan switch. It's out of the way of knees and screws won't interfere with the switch. One of the other benefits is that the cable won't have to be removed if I have to pull a trim panel for the instruments, speedo, heat controls, etc. I guess that makes this position best in my mind. (If the vehicle wasn't dripping slush I might have mounted it to the transfer shift lever.)

I drilled a 7/32" hole in the grommet for the wiring harness firewall pass-through and sent the cable through that. It was a tight fit, but that was the goal. This lines up nicely with my mounting location. The cable passes over the valve cover and winds below the heater hoses. I didn't cut the extra 24" from the cable at this time to leave options for later LOL but I probably should have. I then slid the clear vinyl hose onto the cable, cutting it so it was just about a 1/2" short of the spiral cable sheathing end. This gave me room to work the heat shrink onto the cable sheathing, sliding it about 1" into the vinyl cover. The hose clamp was then install over the vinyl tubing, cinching it over the heat shrink- water proof! I fed the compression nut and ferule over the cable, slid it into the fitting, and tightened it down. Final waterproofing was the RTV sealing the heat shrink to the compression nut.

Inside the housing, I had drilled two 1/8" holes in the 'shallow' portions of the cast aluminum shift fork. I had fed the drill bit right through the fitting, drilling first left of the center rib, and then angling to the right of the center rib. The cable core itself was fed through one of the cable stops and then one of the holes in the fork. I moved the fork to the disconnected position, forced the cable stop tight to the fork, applied blue locktite to the threads, and tightened it with a screw driver. Then I bent the cable with needle nose and fed it BACK through the other hole. After working the "slack" (tough to do!) I slipped on the other cable stop and cinched it down. Note again- no spring!

At this point I installed the housing bolts being careful to engage the shift collar. Sealed the housing with RTV.

To engage the front axle, I turn the handle to unlocked position and pull. A gentle roll of the vehicle to align the axle disconnect splines and the front axle was locked. Turning the handle locks the cable, holding the spline collar in the connected position. Then, to disengage, I unlock the cable, push it in and twist it to locked. This slides the axle collar back to the disconnected position. Transfer case lever is needed of course to engage the front driveshaft for 4x4.

So no spring- no struggling to pull out cable. The t-handle locking cable locks and unlocks the axle perfectly and I didn't have to spend $80 + shipping for a new but still failure-prone vacuum motor. And I didn't have to experiment with springs. One install, success. (BTW- I also drilled through the vacuum motor diaphragm so it wouldn't impede action. Then I sealed up the 3 vacuum ports to keep out water etc. This should be obvious to anyone who's read the 28 page thread but I thought I would mention this for any newbies to save them trouble.)

A future mod I will likely use on the '91 project is to use the later model shift fork housing that has the switch for the 4x4 light on the end of the shift fork shaft. I don't need the light, but since sometime it takes a sec for the splines to align and therefore connect the axle shafts I think this is a nice feature since it is available. Waiting for the light could save unnecessary 'slamming' of the driveline upon engagement. I remember breaking an automatic hub on my '83 Datsun King Cab 4x4 when I let out the clutch and applied power.

Time will tell but this seems like a super easy mod with a lot of benefits the vacuum motor can't offer.

I hope this is a very useful addition to a long, good and helpful write-up.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 01:06 AM   #412
jojojeep1
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this is how I made my posi disconnect , it fast ,no drilling into the fork ,and no taping and 100 percent water proof. I got this from youtube, go to youtube jeep yj disconnect modification by danbarid 100. it works great and your done in 1 hour.
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Unread 12-25-2013, 02:00 PM   #413
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jojojeep1 View Post
this is how I made my posi disconnect , it fast ,no drilling into the fork ,and no taping and 100 percent water proof. I got this from youtube, go to youtube jeep yj disconnect modification by danbarid 100. it works great and your done in 1 hour.
OK. I thought about a similar method... I couldn't figure out how (without the sealed method) to keep snow/slush/ice from rendering the cable immobile.
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Unread 12-25-2013, 07:46 PM   #414
linusb
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I was a big proponent of posi-lock (I still have mine and it works well enough). But in hindsight I would've just gotten a solid axle shaft and been done with the whole two piece aspect.
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1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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Unread 01-27-2014, 06:16 PM   #415
BeastMaster67
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I tried this modification on 1/27/2014, on my 1998 Dodge 2500 4x4 full size pickup. I can't get the NAPA handle (part 731-1104) to lock. The fork will easily (ok..fairly easily) engage 4x4 when rolling slowly and my 4x4 dash light does work. However, the handle won't stay locked. The handle assembly came a part on the work bench...so I only assume I got it back together correctly. No way to know without another to look at. I really lightened up the spring, so it's not that the spring is too stout.

The Napa cable is 9' and 6' would be a plenty, even on my full size truck...so..that's another 40 min. getting it cut to length, check, take it all apart yet again etc. etc....

I completely did away with the diaphragm and did the copper cap solder deal....I couldn't see that it made the fork slide any easier. The shaft thru the fork is brittle...I broke one and had to buy a new diaphragm ($100) just to junk it to use the shaft. DO NOT try to bend the shaft...somehow...some DO get bent..mine did and so did a buddy of mine's Dodge 2500 Diesel 4x4. The shaft will snap like a pencil if you try to bend it straight.

2) The T handle Napa cable is not as big as the picture shows on pg. 1 of this thread...the pic is deceiving. It's basically a two finger pull...I have big hands, it's not nearly big enough to get a good hand hold on.

3) You will NOT perform this mod.in just 2 hrs. like it says many places in here. I was on it about 10 hrs. total.,,,,and I have a full garage, tap, all the tools needed etc. and the know how.

The vacuum system on my 3/4 ton Dodge is the EXACT same one as shown in the various pics on here...the same as a light weight Jeep.


Like someone says....there's a reason the Posi-Lok system is $200...probably b/c someone else already spent a lot of time figuring this stuff all out.
This modification isn't hard, it's just hard to get EVERYTHING to line up, work smoothly etc. It's not flawless at all.

As of right now, I have a lot of heartache in this project and still don't have 4 wheel drive....unless I hold out on the T handle while I drive. Sure I will.

If anyone can tell me more about the T handle not locking, hit me.

Last edited by BeastMaster67; 01-27-2014 at 06:27 PM..
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Unread 01-28-2014, 10:39 AM   #416
bigsquat
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it must be a defective handle. does it look llike this?
locking-handle.jpg

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Unread 01-28-2014, 06:51 PM   #417
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMaster67 View Post
...The handle assembly came a part on the work bench...so I only assume I got it back together correctly...I have big hands, it's not nearly big enough to get a good hand hold on...I was on it about 10 hrs. total...and I have the know how...there's a reason the Posi-Lok system is $200...it's just hard to get EVERYTHING to line up, work smoothly etc. It's not flawless at all...If anyone can tell me more about the T handle not locking, hit me.
  1. You should have taken the defective cable back before installing it and got a new one if it was broken, or just bought a new one if you took it apart yourself.
  2. I too would assume you didn't get it back together correctly
  3. My handle locks nicely and really only needs two fingers to operate, so why do you want a bigger handle? I was pleased that it was smaller than I expected (compared to PTO cables I have seen)
  4. it IS an under two-hour job...
  5. umm... skipping this one
  6. The reason the manufactured posi-lok is $200 is two-fold: for-profit businesses like to make money; and some people don't build their own stuff very well
  7. Your handle is not locking because it is broken or damaged. The 6' cable is basically the same cost as the 9'- go get a new cable and make sure it doesn't came apart before installing it.

This is a cheap and easy mod. It bugs me when I read disses on the posilock because it does work. I use mine very often - I expected that I was going to be taking the thing apart and tightening stuff up after it "broke in" but it worked pretty good on day one and it HAS broken in- it is a lot smoother than when I first made it. It does take a hundred feet or so to disengage sometimes; forcing it doesn't seem to help but it always works. I can live with it and didn't have to buy a $200 posilok OR a new vacuum motor to have 4WD.

It is a win-win! If you don't like an axle disconnect then lock the collar or change the axle.

It sounds like your homemade locking cable works fine- it's just not locking. That is what needs to be fixed- not the mod.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 06:52 PM   #418
BeastMaster67
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1/28/2014/////day 3 of this "2 hr." modification. Took the spring out today,which is supposed to kick it out of 4x4. Before, it was popping out within seconds of engaging.
So far, it has only popped out of 4x4 once and that was on the rd. Did some testing in the snow and on hills...purposely putting the front end in a bind,,,,and so far so good. It goes in and out of 4x4 fairly easily, but rolling to get the axles lined up so the collar slips over both is mandatory. I can live with that. I push in to take out of 4x4 since the spring is now gone..and roll slowly. I also moved the handle today so I can get my big hands on it better.
If I had to do it all over again,,,I'd buy the Buyers cable with the cinch lock on it.
The real test will be a full day of snow plowing as the truck gets banged around a lot on curbs etc.

http://www.eztruckaccessories.com/31...e-locking.html
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Unread 01-28-2014, 11:26 PM   #419
bigsquat
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hey just pull it out and put some lock pliers on it. might work for your posi lock as well.....
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red 92 yj,4.0,dana 44 rear,xj driveshaft,rubi 4-1 tc,35"tires,smitty built winch,oba, 6" flares,hand throttle,aussie's front and back,posi-lock,6" lift.anti-wrap, hombrew bumpers, rack and sliders,cb,rear shock truss <>< ,MY BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...hp?t=613943see
Two fish swim into a concrete wall. One turns to the other and says 'Dam!'
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Unread 01-28-2014, 11:46 PM   #420
OJwerks
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i had no clue this was even possible! thanks man!
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