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Unread 07-09-2013, 07:33 AM   #391
redbullrr
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Almost done with this setup, used a bleeder valve and nut for my entry point. Then used a hose to seal the area off.
Question.... Does anyone know the part number for the compression spring. I made a spring but its a tad to wide. Any auto parts store i go to they hire kids who have no clue what anything is unless you have a part number.

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Unread 07-09-2013, 08:51 AM   #392
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbullrr View Post
Almost done with this setup, used a bleeder valve and nut for my entry point. Then used a hose to seal the area off.
Question.... Does anyone know the part number for the compression spring. I made a spring but its a tad to wide. Any auto parts store i go to they hire kids who have no clue what anything is unless you have a part number.
At post 357 mentions a 5/8" x 2 3/4" spring;

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...5/index24.html

That spring package looks like it came from Home Depot or Lowes. They have an assortment of springs to choose from.
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Unread 07-09-2013, 12:47 PM   #393
redbullrr
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Thanks ^ just ordered it thru Napa online. New cable to. The cable I bought from Autozone snapped at t handle when testing.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 12:50 PM   #394
redbullrr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbullrr View Post
Thanks ^ just ordered it thru Napa online. New cable to. The cable I bought from Autozone snapped at t handle when testing.
so Napa forced 8 dollar shipping for 1 spring then forced me to take the whole box of springs because "They dont sell individual" even though on there website I made the reserver as individual..

In any event I have 4 springs if anyone local on LI, NY needs any.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:05 AM   #395
redbullrr
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Locking Cable, doesnt really lock. Caught me off guard and got stuck at the beach.

It should be as easy as pulling and twisting to lock cable correct? Why after a few minutes of standing still the thing slides back in?
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Unread 07-15-2013, 08:38 AM   #396
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbullrr View Post
Locking Cable, doesnt really lock. Caught me off guard and got stuck at the beach.

It should be as easy as pulling and twisting to lock cable correct? Why after a few minutes of standing still the thing slides back in?
Not really. Often the two axle ends do not align. So the shift collar cannot slide over the left axle. I find that if I move very slowly and turn my steering wheel they align and my cable actuated shifter pulls the shift collar right over onto the left axle end.
First thought Did your shift cable come loose in the front axle? If it engages with no effort or friction felt it is probably not connected.

If it does feel connected then:

The locking cable has to move the same distance that the shift collar in the front diff needs to move, AND for you to turn your cable handle to lock the cable in place. Does it pop out of the locked position?

If it does then I think your spring is not stout enough to hold the shaft collar in place.

Pull your cable to get you into 4WD then use a small pair of vice grips or a small C clamp to lock the shaft of the cable/handle to prevent it from moving forward and disengaging the front shift collar and dropping you out of 4WD.

IF that works it must be a weak spring.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 01:00 AM   #397
Henggeler
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Okay how many of you have locked the front spider gears via welding. Or some sort of cheap locker. And use this mod to be a selectable locker.
Only downside would be front driveshaft turning all the time right?
After my 5.3/nv4500/np241c swap I haven't done anything with my front end yet. Being able to use this to make it open in 2wheel and locked solid in 4wheel would be perfect for me.
But does it work good?
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Unread 07-24-2013, 07:46 AM   #398
jason280
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Once you weld the spiders, there is no more "selection" left. You will still be able to change the transfer case from 2wd to 4wd, but your front axle shafts will always be locked together (unless you eventually replace the spiders, etc). Unless its just a trail rig, and even then it may not be recommended, I would not weld the front spiders. If anything, I would drop in a auto locker like a Spartan.

I actually have a posi-lock setup sitting at the house, but I am leaning towards simply running a 1pc outer shaft to do away with the CAD all together.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 07:55 AM   #399
Henggeler
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They won't always be locked together if you have the collar disengaged
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Unread 07-24-2013, 08:14 AM   #400
jason280
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Oops, forgot about the shift collar.
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Unread 07-27-2013, 06:28 PM   #401
fishadventure
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pipe thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by yjman92 View Post
i did that but they all say that the standard size taps everyone carries dont have the smaller thread pattern that is on the compression union, so im stuck at a stand still
I have read 25 pages of this thread. What you need is a pipe thread tap. Sizes of fittings are in the text.

The other thing I noticed is that a couple of people had trouble with auto part store fittings. *I* think this is because these might be brake line fittings which are mostly metric... Not sure why, but:

You should be able to get a compression-to-pipe-thread fitting at a hardware store. Then all you need is a pipe thread tap.

I hope this sorts this frequent problem out for a few folks.

My YJ has had vacuum actuator issues so I will be doing this mod along with the z-gate plate removal. I also like the idea of the pull cable on the transfer lever. All in all I like the whole idea because it is a mechanical connection- no wires or vacuum lines to trouble shoot if there is a problem. The brake cylinder spring is low buck and I love that it spits in the face of Manufacturing Dependency Syndrome. Stuff you make yourself is just as (if not more) real than something that comes packed in a pretty box from a factory.
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Unread 07-29-2013, 04:43 AM   #402
Henggeler
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I just ordered a spartan instead
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Unread 07-29-2013, 02:01 PM   #403
bigsquat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henggeler View Post
I just ordered a spartan instead
instead of what?
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Unread 08-12-2013, 06:14 AM   #404
Henggeler
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Spartan locker and tj axle swap. No more cad. Worked pretty good. The axle swap itself is cheap too. I recommend it. ($65 axle and $20seals)
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Unread 08-25-2013, 11:47 AM   #405
padave64
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My first attempt at this used a bit to strong of a spring - Made it too hard to pull and for the cable to lock - revised it by using a weaker spring and another cable stop on the lock side of the fork, so I could push it out of lock.. the spring just helps....

This and adjusting the shift linkage got me wheeling again after an SOA lift......
img_2273.jpg  
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