Home made POSI LOCK write up - Page 22

litz · 06-27-2010, 11:45 PM

no I used the NAPA 9 foot locking cable as called out in original post, and yes it was a pain to do thats why I locked the handle in place in the cab and used pliers to pull the cable. Also, I used shrink wrap on the cable cover to help keep out water.

I found this mod to be relatively easy and the rewards huge. thanks to the original post for the pics and detail wripe up!

jl052105 · 07-22-2010, 08:02 AM

I did this mod about a month ago. Worked great, but...... if the cable isn't relatively straight and free of turns and bends, it doesn't like to move (hence not always working properly). After finding out that the tjs did away with the system all together, and had the axle connected all of the time, i decided to do the same. I simply took the spring out of the unit and locked the fork and collar in the connected position. THIS WORKED GREAT.
I didn't want to have it PERMANENTLY connected just in case I decide to get a front locker later on down the road.

litz · 07-22-2010, 10:51 AM

I used the napa solid cable with T handle. Yes it is very stiff I used 2 pliers to push and pull the cable through the fork. As I mentioned earlier I removed the fork from the assembly made things easier. Also helps if you have a second set of hands to help holding the fork and wrestling with the wire.

jl052105 · 07-23-2010, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by litz

Also helps if you have a second set of hands to help holding the fork and wrestling with the wire.

ABSOLUTELY!

dgray69 · 08-14-2010, 09:04 AM

i have posi lock. and cable broke. so now im doing this mod. my sugestion is if you wheel this weekly with posi lock system. change oil and check regularly. my cable set up then broke the twist lever. the cable is 90% of the system and cheapest one ive found so far was over $150. crazy price for a cable and handle. im thinking of replaceing it with a throtle locking cable from tractor supply. $9.99. and by the way great write up bro

Firefyter-Emt · 08-17-2010, 12:38 AM

One thing I did not see in this whole post is that you should really engage the transfercase while moving (slower speeds) and then slowly engage the CAD cable. If the transfercase is not in gear, the two shafts are not spinning at the same speed (friction loss in the diff gears)

Mine has been in there for maybe 4 years and the cable has come off twice, although I did not have the two holes. I plan to try this out as well as the trick of tack welding a ball on the end of the cable after the cable lock. I ran the 1/4" fuel line on mine (and filled with grease). So far I have not had any issues with stuck cables.

A few people also mentioned "choke cable" in their posts. Keep in mind, you need a locking t-handle or better style cable to do this. A simple pull choke will not work.

dgray69 · 08-18-2010, 10:32 AM

my system broke right at hande, cable was still good, so i cut the tube back so 3/4 on and inch of the cable was still sticking out, and metal threaded collar was left on this allows it to still be turned out, i used a pair of vice grips and turned it out, worked good, looking for handle for it as we speak

mike_breaker_5 · 10-18-2010, 06:14 PM

well i don't think it's too late to bump this back up top.

i do have a question however.... if i were to weld the spiders and install a cable C.A.D. like the one in this thread, all i would be doing is turning the long shaft and the front DS right? has anyone done this? what are the vibs like with a stock DS? if i were to switch to a double cardigan style front ds would that eliminate excess vibs? would it be viable for a dd?

Ulver44 · 10-21-2010, 07:22 PM

Why go to the trouble of making a posi lock instead of just installing a non-CAD axleshaft in the passenger side with a block off plate? Am I missing something?

**bigsquat** · 10-26-2010, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ulver44

Why go to the trouble of making a posi lock instead of just installing a non-CAD axleshaft in the passenger side with a block off plate? Am I missing something?

well for one, if your existing axles are in good shape then why spend the money. i have never broke one or none of my friends so they seem strong enuff.

you would have to balance the ds.

change seal configuration.

and if you have no locker or a selectable you can get 2 wheel low with the axle disconected

even with an aussie in the front it helps to turn on granite slabs when you can at least disco one side

plym49 · 10-26-2010, 07:55 PM

I betcha that a Harley clutch cable would be more than strong enough. Go to your local friendly chopper shop. They will have piles of stock black clutch cables free for the asking (because everyone swaps them out for chrome). Find a length that works or cut it to length at the axle end (cycle shops also have good ball ends for these cables that solder on - ask them to do it for you, throw them a $20 or a case of beer).

Ulver44 · 10-26-2010, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsquat

well for one, if your existing axles are in good shape then why spend the money. i have never broke one or none of my friends so they seem strong enuff.

you would have to balance the ds.

change seal configuration.

and if you have no locker or a selectable you can get 2 wheel low with the axle disconected

even with an aussie in the front it helps to turn on granite slabs when you can at least disco one side

Ok, I thought they were pretty cheap at JY's and also thought the CAD was prone to breakage with 33's/35' and a locker.

**bigsquat** · 10-26-2010, 08:11 PM

Quote:

=mike_breaker_5;10302869]well i don't think it's too late to bump this back up top.
i do have a question however.... if i were to weld the spiders and install a cable C.A.D. like the one in this thread, all i would be doing is turning the long shaft and the front DS right? has anyone done this?

thats correct, and i dont like the idea of welding the spiders. ive done it on someone elses in the rear and its to aggressive on the road. get an asussie or a mini spool if your short on funds. welding the spiders is tricky and could break.

Quote:

what are the vibs like with a stock DS? if i were to switch to a double cardigan style front ds would that eliminate excess vibs? would it be viable for a dd?

test it and if there are to many vibes then get it balanced.
i dont think a cardin is what you need. i know in my rear the cardin type requires that the diff yoke be pointed directly at the tc yoke show i had to change the perch location from stock.

**bigsquat** · 10-26-2010, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plym49

I betcha that a Harley clutch cable would be more than strong enough. Go to your local friendly chopper shop. They will have piles of stock black clutch cables free for the asking (because everyone swaps them out for chrome). Find a length that works or cut it to length at the axle end (cycle shops also have good ball ends for these cables that solder on - ask them to do it for you, throw them a $20 or a case of beer).

the problem is how do you get it to lock in the pulled position. the locking choke cable from napa works fine.

plym49 · 10-26-2010, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsquat

the problem is how do you get it to lock in the pulled position. the locking choke cable from napa works fine.

Well I guess you would have to fabricate something. Should not be hard. Since many are commenting on how difficult it is to move the NAPA cable or about the cost, it is appropriate to raise this as an alternative.

10-21-2010, 07:22 PM	#324
Ulver44 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: NC Posts: 11 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Why go to the trouble of making a posi lock instead of just installing a non-CAD axleshaft in the passenger side with a block off plate? Am I missing something?