Home made POSI LOCK write up - Page 17

**SpideYJeep** · 02-16-2010, 02:40 PM

AuroraJeep - Thanks for posting the pic of the front axle fork cover and weather guard - now I know what to replace and what to keep my dog away from (gr)

Krash99 · 02-20-2010, 03:05 PM

Anybody considered an electric solenoid with 1" of travel, push button lockup? Also what is the exact travel of shift fork. would .55 inche travel work? I havent torn into my Diff yet, but found a cheap solenoid with that much travel and 15 lbs of force? thought this might be interesting.

**bigsquat** · 02-20-2010, 07:02 PM

i think if you can double the throw you would have a winner

**bigsquat** · 02-20-2010, 07:04 PM

it looks like a little over 1". but im not pulling it apart to check!

Krash99 · 02-20-2010, 07:54 PM

I dont blame ya, lol. I found a shaved door handle door popping solenoid with 35 lbs of force for 35 bucks on net. 1.25" of stroke. this should work, I am goin to scout junk yard next week for trunk solenoids, see if i can come up with a 10 dollar job that will do the trick. wouldnt be bad, ten dollars for a push button shifter?

**bigsquat** · 02-20-2010, 10:17 PM

somone last year was talking about this if i remember right, but i havnt seen anything about it since. help me with understanding how those solenoids work, it would have to be energized to pull the collar over and stay energized the whole time to hold it in? that would mean a toggle switch and not a momentary button. or does it stay over when energized with a momentary push button and a seperate momentary button to pull it back ? it seems to me that a door solenoid works different than a trunk one.

linusb · 02-21-2010, 06:15 AM

I too was thinking about a means to do this. Was thinking a heavy duty servo controlled by a switch in the cab. But I couldn't imagine how to mount and waterproof it.

Krash99 · 02-21-2010, 10:13 AM

Yes the solenoid has to stay energized, but that is all in the switch, or theoretically speaking one could put a push solenoid on one side of fork and a pull solenoid on the other with whatever kind of switch one wanted, or i think a strong push solenoid with return spring will be the best route, and the stronger solenoids like door and trunk poppers are fairly water tight. Of course I might use the cable as mentioned in order to locate the solenoid inside the cab.....IMO lol

**bigsquat** · 02-21-2010, 11:23 AM

if you cant get a waterproof one then its not worth the trouble to use a cable to remote it. you should just keep it simple and use a choke cable / handle like i have. unless its the novelty your after. it is interesting tho.

linusb · 02-22-2010, 09:18 PM

That Vernier cable looks really good. Is 6' long enough or is 10' necessary? Also what size hole should be tapped for that fitting?

cwjeep · 02-22-2010, 10:48 PM

i did this setup on mine and it works perfect!

jl052105 · 02-25-2010, 01:30 PM

Ok, I've been reading and pondering for a week or so on this thread......
I would love to do this, but not because my vac system is unacceptable. Rather, I want 2 low. That being said, I am under the impression (and I've been known to be wrong a time or two) that when the tcase is in 4wd and the fork is "un"locked, jeep will be in 3wd (as the front drive shaft is still going to spin). I understand the concept (i think). However, to experiment, I jacked the jeep up on 4 jackstands and disconnected the vac source and put tcase in 4wd, and neither one of the front tires spun. Thus, implying that I might be able to have 2 low?

Please help explain this to me I'm not a newb to cars, but I'm afraid I am a yearling to jeeps.

BTW, I have a nearly bone stock 90 yj 2.5l

muddy93 · 02-25-2010, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jl052105

Ok, I've been reading and pondering for a week or so on this thread......
I would love to do this, but not because my vac system is unacceptable. Rather, I want 2 low. That being said, I am under the impression (and I've been known to be wrong a time or two) that when the tcase is in 4wd and the fork is "un"locked, jeep will be in 3wd (as the front drive shaft is still going to spin). I understand the concept (i think). However, to experiment, I jacked the jeep up on 4 jackstands and disconnected the vac source and put tcase in 4wd, and neither one of the front tires spun. Thus, implying that I might be able to have 2 low?

Please help explain this to me I'm not a newb to cars, but I'm afraid I am a yearling to jeeps.

BTW, I have a nearly bone stock 90 yj 2.5l

The only way to get 3wd is if you have a locker in the front.

Even though the front drive shaft will be turning(T-case in 4wd, and front axle disconnected), because you have an open dif, the drivers side wheel will NOT receive any torque. Basically the drive shaft will be turning the dif, but the torque will be sent to the side with the least amount of resistance, which is the inner 1/2 of the passanger side shaft.

So, with an open front dif, you CAN have 2LO.

Also, just a note, you don't have to switch to a cable setup to get 2lo. If you vac system is working fine, you can simply get a manual vacuum valve, unhook the vac lines from the T-case, and re-route them to the cab. Then just mount the manual vac switch (I have mine mounted in the dash), and connect the vac lines to it. It works just like the cable posi-lok, but operates with vacuum.

jl052105 · 02-25-2010, 02:11 PM

Thanks for the explanation....... that's what my "car knowlege" told me, I guess what I should have asked is "do I have an open diff stock, or is it locked?" (the reason this threw me is because a while back i was talking to some idiot that said "the yj's came with a front locker from the factory") but I think u answered my revised question also?!? .....

KillerBBBs · 03-03-2010, 07:25 PM

I have a question, My 4 vacuum lines melted on the exhaust manifold (was that way when I got it)so does doing this mod remove the need for all 4 of the lines coming from the transfer case