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Old 03-16-2009, 11:32 AM   #136
buckshot500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scbasspro View Post
Question: Do you have to remove the fork to drill the hole for the cable?
I had just bought the Posi-lok deal, but from these pics it looks like you could go right through the hole you drilled in the housing. You'd need a long enough bit, and doing it this way would make it easy to center the fork hole with the housing hole.

If I were doing it, I'd bolt the whole deal back up then mark the fork. Then pull it back off & drill it. This way the fork is in it's normal position.

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Old 03-16-2009, 11:51 AM   #137
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Originally Posted by scbasspro View Post
Question: Do you have to remove the fork to drill the hole for the cable?
No. I drilled the two holes in mine with my rotary tool and a 1/8" drill bit. The cable itself is 1/16", but for ease of installation and tweaking purposes I chose the larger size. I also didn't remove my fork. Everything was so rusted shut it was easier just to drill it while installed. Sure, it isn't the most perfect job but it works fine.

Also, be sure to drill two holes, and loop the wire through one side and back through the other. The first time I did mine I just had the one hole and a cable stop, but that pulled through the third time I used it.
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:09 AM   #138
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I think I'm missing something here... Why drill your own hole? You can keep all of your mods external, so you don't need to worry about ever opening the axle again.

If you cut the vacuum motor shaft off, and attach a cable to the shaft it self, externally, it would accomplish the same thing, except you would keep the factory sealed passageway into the axle. You could easily make a plate for the cable to press against that would bolt to the axle, or even use part of the vacuum motor. Yet another possibility is to dissasemble the vacuum motor, take out the diaphragm, and just drill a hole in the outside cover to use as your cable plate, so you wouldn't have to make one.

I've attached an image to explain what I'm saying...



The only difference between this and how everyone's done it so far is that You would push the knob in to engage 4wd, and it would normally be pulled out for 2wd... Which was mentioned earlier in the thread.

Last edited by Robocody; 05-25-2009 at 03:46 AM..
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:49 PM   #139
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thats interesting , it would have to push it into 4x4 instead of pull. im not sure how that would work? also if you cut the diafram off there would be a problem with dirt getting on the shaft because the seal is on the inside of the axle housing isnt it. but let us know how it works out
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:02 AM   #140
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okay couple questions since I will be picking up the parts tomorrow where do I get all these parts does Napa carry most of them????

-NAPA 9ft Locking Cable, part 731-1104
-1/4" Compression Union
-5/8"x2-3/4" Compression Spring

I figured the locking cable is at napa

but where can I find a 1/4" compression union

and same goes for the compression spring.
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Old 06-10-2009, 09:23 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goobersbro View Post
okay couple questions since I will be picking up the parts tomorrow where do I get all these parts does Napa carry most of them????

-NAPA 9ft Locking Cable, part 731-1104
-1/4" Compression Union
-5/8"x2-3/4" Compression Spring

I figured the locking cable is at napa

but where can I find a 1/4" compression union

and same goes for the compression spring.
hardware store. I think I got my compression union at autozone.
compression spring, I already had one, but tractor supply/harbor freight/northern tool somewhere like that probably has one.
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:15 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goobersbro View Post
okay couple questions since I will be picking up the parts tomorrow where do I get all these parts does Napa carry most of them????

-NAPA 9ft Locking Cable, part 731-1104
-1/4" Compression Union
-5/8"x2-3/4" Compression Spring

I figured the locking cable is at napa

but where can I find a 1/4" compression union

and same goes for the compression spring.
i got my union at an off name auto parts store near wallmart in placerville. a perfic spring can be found at your local brake shop. i used one the goes inside a wheel cylinder. they have buckets of used ones and it was free!
make sure to get some shrink tube to keep the water out of the cable
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:45 AM   #143
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Goob, if you wanna come pick it up you can have mine.

Of course it'd probably cost as much in gas as the parts.
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:04 PM   #144
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Goob, if you wanna come pick it up you can have mine.

Of course it'd probably cost as much in gas as the parts.

what do you have up front now, timatoe?
go w/ 1 pc shafts?
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:23 PM   #145
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what do you have up front now, timatoe?
go w/ 1 pc shafts?
Yep, and got some of those Alloy axle seals just cause they're sexy.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:41 PM   #146
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Hey tim i'll take it from you and we can install it into mine when we do my locker!!!!!!!
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:37 PM   #147
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O.K. please bare with me as I have some newbie questions about this...

-If I do this can I daily drive it w/o any problems?
-I think I read something about the front drive shaft always spinning in 2wd(if so will any problems arise?)
-When engaged will it be in 4hi or 4lo or will I have the option of both?
-will i still need to place my transfer case in 2wd high when driving on road and in 4wd when off road?

Thanks,
James
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:35 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by JayTea View Post
O.K. please bare with me as I have some newbie questions about this...

1-If I do this can I daily drive it w/o any problems?
2-I think I read something about the front drive shaft always spinning in 2wd(if so will any problems arise?)
3-When engaged will it be in 4hi or 4lo or will I have the option of both?
4-will i still need to place my transfer case in 2wd high when driving on road and in 4wd when off road?

Thanks,
James
1 You can DD it with no issue, this simply takes the place of the vacuum actuated system, so it's now engaged manually instead of automatically with vacuum.

2 The front drive shaft will not be spinning unless it's in 4wd or if you go with a solid shaft instead of the disco.

3 Again, see #1, you're only engaging the passenger side axle the t-case functions as normal.

4 Yes use 2wd and 4wd as you would any other time.
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:07 PM   #149
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1 You can DD it with no issue, this simply takes the place of the vacuum actuated system, so it's now engaged manually instead of automatically with vacuum.

2 The front drive shaft will not be spinning unless it's in 4wd or if you go with a solid shaft instead of the disco.

3 Again, see #1, you're only engaging the passenger side axle the t-case functions as normal.

4 Yes use 2wd and 4wd as you would any other time.
Thank you, that answered all of my questions
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:14 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by JayTea View Post
O.K. please bare with me as I have some newbie questions about this...


-I think I read something about the front drive shaft always spinning in 2wd(if so will any problems arise?)


Thanks,
James
mine spins with the posilock not engaged because i also installed a locker. And its only a problem if your driveshaft isnt balanced. since you dont have a locker (i think) you will not have a problem
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