[NinjaofDoom]

89 wrangler 4.2L
i need the p/n for the 2100
any help will be gr8!

[WVHotWheeler]

I have had to order the power valve know one had it in stock it should be here friday, but I did have a set of 57 and 58 jets so I put in the 57 and droped my fuel presure down to 4lbs from 7lbs and its about 80% better I think Im going to buy Holley"s 12-803BP fuel presure reg it has a bypass for the return gas line to the tank,on my set up I have a fuel presure gauge between the carb and the reg (same type reg you use) Ive tried 2 and the presure is not very steady can go up or down at any time by a lbs,I use the Holley Blue pump with the return threw the fuel filter,Ive put the gauge at the pump and presure is steady,I am hopping that the power valve will fix the rest of it, I let you know how it is after Friday ,I have one more ? for you ,when you remove your gas cap after the Jeep has been run is there a LOT of presure coming out of the tank? (could be the reason that my fuel presure goes up and down) Thanks for all the help,Kenneth

[WVHotWheeler]

Originally Posted by NinjaofDoom

89 wrangler 4.2L
i need the p/n for the 2100
any help will be gr8!

If you mean the carb its a 2300 series part #07448 If thats what your asking about I have second one that new in the box might save you a few bucks,Kenneth

[zeus87gn]

Originally Posted by WVHotWheeler

I have had to order the power valve know one had it in stock it should be here friday, but I did have a set of 57 and 58 jets so I put in the 57 and droped my fuel presure down to 4lbs from 7lbs and its about 80% better I think Im going to buy Holley"s 12-803BP fuel presure reg it has a bypass for the return gas line to the tank,on my set up I have a fuel presure gauge between the carb and the reg (same type reg you use) Ive tried 2 and the presure is not very steady can go up or down at any time by a lbs,I use the Holley Blue pump with the return threw the fuel filter,Ive put the gauge at the pump and presure is steady,I am hopping that the power valve will fix the rest of it, I let you know how it is after Friday

Sounds like you're geting there. Glad to know.

Originally Posted by WVHotWheeler

I have one more ? for you ,when you remove your gas cap after the Jeep has been run is there a LOT of presure coming out of the tank? (could be the reason that my fuel presure goes up and down) Thanks for all the help,Kenneth

Your tank vent is plugged/blocked/closed, something.
You need to fix it.
You're driving a bomb.

Look up inside the frame next to the p/s of the tank and see if the rollover valve is there and hooked up. If it is, you may need to trace the line and see if it's crimped. Also check your evap can if you still have it. The vacuum actuator may be broken.

[WVHotWheeler]

Any idea where the tank vent is located? is it a line? or should the cap be vented? Kenneth

[tha5150]

this is kinda an old post. but I have been going by this information and need some help. PLEASE. here is my post over at another forum… let me know what you think.

-----------------

yesterday I put a new aluminum valve cover and gasket on. K&N crankcase vent breather on front of valve cover. K&N Air filter. PCV valve on rear of valve cover going to rear of carb. the PCV valve seems to be working cause when I bump the throttle, the insides move. so its not froze or anything. as far as fuel, it is coming from tank to fuel pump, to new fuel filter. return is connected to the return line back to tank. out from filter goes to fuel pressure regulator then to fuel pressure gauge, to carb. the carb is a Holley 2300;7448-1. here is info I have. and here I called Holley and they said my stock jets are 61 and should be adjusted, on both sides 1 1/2 turns out. following someone else's build with my same setup, he has size 58 jets and running 3.5 pounds of pressure. when I hooked up the regulator and gauge, it was reading between 1-2. no matter what I would set it to, the pressure never changed. not sure if I have a bad regulator or not. would assume so. brand new though. but I would like to see what it is without the regulator. again, the regulator is after the fuel filter. this is the way the other person said he did it and has had great success. but he has size 58 jets…?

lets go back a week. I had a plastic valve cover and was leaking oil on the driver side due to it not being secured properly. wrong one or cracked.. whatever. that plastic is gone and moved to aluminum. but other than that, there was no smoke or anything coming out the exhaust. """non that I could see. maybe the wind was different. but thats a lot of if's"""

yesterday when everything was done and I was ready to start it up, smoke was pouring out the exhaust, smelling like fuel and the plugs are COVERED with oil. brand new Bosch Platinum 4's. wires are not new though. I did get a new cap and rotor though.

I am just throwing things at this and not getting anywhere. but why would all this smoke be blowing out? also, there is smoke coming out the crank case vent breather and PCV valve if I take that off.. so it seems like I have alot of blow by. not sure what causes this. could be a few things I am sure. but again, was not smoking last week that I could see. ((when I bought this motor,it was in a running CJ7 and ran like a champ))) I am thinking a new fuel filter? I checked on the 90 4.2 and an 84 4.2 and are same part number. this fuel pump is out of my other motor I just took out. the distributor, I believe (someone else did that part of assembly) (Floppy?) is from this motor. could it have been backwards or anything? like 180* out? I got a timing gun today and it is sitting on around 7. sounds ok, seems to run ok, but smokes bad. also noticed a little oil leaking out where the oil sender was. I took that out and screwed in a little brass fitting for a new mechanical oil gauge. just need to use some Teflon and should fix that...

-------please note, I have not had this outside my neighborhood in maybe 2 months. so I say last weekend cause I can only work on it saturday's and Sunday's. last week was the first drive after motor swap---------

so there you go guys, my list of things done and problems I am having. please help. I would love to make it out next weekend. but at this point, I would love to make it out my neighborhood, possibly to work or just drive around town.

forgot- there seems to be alot of sludge in this motor. the oil dipstick tube is covered inside. when I pull the stick out, there is crap all over it. the rocker arms are pretty nasty too. I can only imagine whats in the oil pan.. any thoughts on a cleaning? 0-10w maybe? mystery oil? ATF? cherry bomb?

[zeus87gn]

Hey man,
I can solve some of your problems right off the bat.

1 - Bosch platinum's won't work with a standard 4.2 ignition system. You've got to have a high power coil for them to be effective. Go get some standard grade copper core plugs and that will start you on the right path.

2 - I'll guess your smoke out the pipe is black. Turn your mixture screws in until the engine damn near dies and then let it out a bit until the idle smooths out.

3 - You may need to bump your timing up a bit. You will probably have to adjust it a few times to get it where the engine wants it. Advance it until it knocks under load and then go back enough to shut it up. I'm at 12deg but I'm close to sea level too. It can be different for every motor. Do you know if the computer is bypassed?

4 - About the safest way to clean your engine (guessing it's used by your description) is to keep your oil changed and use quality oil and a good filter. DON'T USE FRAM - they come apart. Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline are all good. Don't worry about the synthetic issue. If you spring a leak it's because you need a new seal. Use 10W-40 and DON'T USE ANY OF THOSE FANCY ADDITIVES TO "CLEAN" THE CRANKCASE. You may break some gunk loose and clog an oil port. I've seen it happen and destroy a perfectly good motor/crank.

If it helps your understanding, that gunk is burnt parafin from old fashioned cheap dino oil (like penzoil) that is actually present in raw crude. If the oil isn't refined enough you get the results you have already seen.

5 - Don' use the cherry bomb - go with Flowmaster!

Z

[tha5150]

omg, you HOPEFULLY saved my life.. well weekend so now I can go out with the boys. I will jump right on it man and hope the plugs will do the trick.. I will report back asap. I was going to reset the distributar to TDC and get a new fuel pump. either way, I am not getting any fuel pressure. yesterday I was unable to start it due to no fuel and when I finally got it started with carb spray, the pressure gauges read 0. getting a new pump today either way.

[zeus87gn]

Originally Posted by WVHotWheeler

Any idea where the tank vent is located? is it a line? or should the cap be vented? Kenneth

I don't know if it matters now, but the tank vent is the charcoal canister in the drivers front fender down in the corner basically under the brakes.

Did your setup get working well?

[zeus87gn]

Originally Posted by tha5150

omg, you HOPEFULLY saved my life.. .

Or at least the rest of the engine life!

Originally Posted by tha5150

well weekend so now I can go out with the boys. I will jump right on it man and hope the plugs will do the trick.. I will report back asap.

The plugs will get you started. After that you may just be down to adjustments.

Originally Posted by tha5150

I was going to reset the distributar to TDC and get a new fuel pump. either way, I am not getting any fuel pressure. yesterday I was unable to start it due to no fuel and when I finally got it started with carb spray, the pressure gauges read 0. getting a new pump today either way.

I wouldn't trust a guage at that low of a pressure unless it's something like a 0-10psi gauge. It may be causing you more trouble than it's worth. Do you smell gas in the oil?

[IdahoJeeper]

Hey Zeus....how about a pic of your throttle linkage setup?

And yeah, yeah, I know, it's a 2 year old thread....but a good one!!

[zeus87gn]

Originally Posted by IdahoJeeper

Hey Zeus....how about a pic of your throttle linkage setup?

And yeah, yeah, I know, it's a 2 year old thread....but a good one!!

Check my gallery....

[IdahoJeeper]

Did the swap on my '84 CJ-7 with a 258.

VERY pleased with the results. Idles and runs smooth and has good, smooth power thoughout the rpm range.

I have been messing around trying to get another carb to work right since Feb and should have done this swap long ago.

I'll add a Holley FPR; somehow it got dropped on my Summit order. I'll post up some better pix tomorrow when I can take 'em in the daylight.

My intake adapter: Trans-Dapt Performance Products 2040 - Trans-Dapt Performance Carburetor Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I had to do a little bit of filing to ensure that all the linkage did not interfere with the adapter.

I had to "modify" the air cleaner (8.5") base to get it to clear the vacuum fitting on the brake booster.

I modified the OEM throttle bracket but was able to achieve desired results with a vise, hacksaw, grinder, and a pair of channel locks. I reused one of the mounting holes and drilled an additional one.

This is one mod I would recommend highly to anyone out there. Yeah, it was a little different putting it on a CJ versus a YJ, but nothing a backyard mechanic can't overcome.

[zeus87gn]

Scott - that's awesome!

An inexpensive adaptor plate made just for the Holley.
I knew it might come along someday.
Thanks for posting.

How did you solve your throttle linkage setup?

[WTNFDXJ]

im bringing this back again... my 89 came with the holley on it.. it has a 4.2 0.60 over 4.0 head nutter mod.. it has no balls sucks down gas like a champ. and is horrible to start in the AM.. im getting it rebuilt hopefully monday.. but one thing i noticed is that my throttle butterflys only open 3/4 of the way my throttle cable only allows that much.. its an automagic.. if i have it rebuilt to your specs on the first page you think it will help out my set up?