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Unread 12-15-2011, 09:37 PM   #46
JeepJon15
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 173
Thanks for the advice. I'll increase the idle some and see if it helps it start, and reset it once its started.

I actually didnt include the condenser because i dont have a radio, so i'm not worried about ignition noise. Now that you mention that though... It did say in the how-to that some models dont require the diode on the white wire. I put it in, wonder if thats it.

I could have even flooded it trying to get the throttle to stop sticking. Maybe i was moving the throttle more than i realized trying to loosen everything up.

We'll see tomorrow when i get to look at it again. Thanks again... and i thought this thread was going to die. Silly me. haha

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Unread 12-15-2011, 10:31 PM   #47
Old4X
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I didn't connect the white wire at all. My red wire had power at both start and run, so no white wire needed as per the instructions.

Also, no need for an ignition resistor. You can run 12V to the coil in both start and run (the HEI module self regulates voltage).

This will give you a hotter spark at idle. Mine has been this way for more than a year, it will not burn out the stock coil in my experience.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 03:48 PM   #48
JeepJon15
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Great info on the HEI thanks.

I just had a chance to look at the jeep again. I put a proper fitting hose connector on the hose going from dist to carb, also inspected hoses again and they LOOK fine. I'll have to get it running again to really get a good second look at them.

I still cant get her to really fire up. If i play with the gas pedal just right while its turning over it will start, but its a hard start and i have to keep giving it gas to keep it sputtering. I think i probably flooded pretty bad last night, but that was over 15 hours ago.

Quick review of what i've done last couple days...
Replaced 3 gaskets it carb, have been tuning in mixture screws, have reset the timing several times, have been playing with idle screws. Thats all i can remember doing. My question is which, if done wrong, could cause this issue?
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Unread 12-16-2011, 04:05 PM   #49
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepJon15 View Post
Great info on the HEI thanks.

I just had a chance to look at the jeep again. I put a proper fitting hose connector on the hose going from dist to carb, also inspected hoses again and they LOOK fine. I'll have to get it running again to really get a good second look at them.

I still cant get her to really fire up. If i play with the gas pedal just right while its turning over it will start, but its a hard start and i have to keep giving it gas to keep it sputtering. I think i probably flooded pretty bad last night, but that was over 15 hours ago.

Quick review of what i've done last couple days...
Replaced 3 gaskets it carb, have been tuning in mixture screws, have reset the timing several times, have been playing with idle screws. Thats all i can remember doing. My question is which, if done wrong, could cause this issue?
Did you do the choke yet? I'm leaning towards the carb adjustment.
.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 04:29 PM   #50
JeepJon15
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No, i didnt do the choke yet. Once it wouldnt start i didnt want to change anything until i figured out what i messed up. Would it still be a good idea to go ahead and do that before i figure out what i did wrong? (choke plate when cold right now is very close to closed.)

I'm with you leaning towards carb adjustment. A couple days ago it started with the timing way too retarded, so i dont see it being a timing issue. And i have the idle cranked up pretty high, so i dont think its that either.

I read something about possibly bending a rod if you flood an engine and try to start it. Is this a possibility in my situation? Should i go ahead and use the rest of this carb rebuild kit and try to rebuild the whole thing myself?

Thanks, be pulling my hair out without you guys' help.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 08:41 PM   #51
Old4X
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Is your accelerator pump working? (look down the carb, engine off, and pump the throttle . You should see 2 solid streams of gas in the venturis. Without the choke working, this is the only way to richen the mixture, and you were likely working around the linkage when doing the carb work.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 09:19 PM   #52
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
Is your accelerator pump working? (look down the carb, engine off, and pump the throttle . You should see 2 solid streams of gas in the venturis. Without the choke working, this is the only way to richen the mixture, and you were likely working around the linkage when doing the carb work.
Old4x is right. I doubt you'll move enough gas to flood an engine that bad. I always setup the choke first, when its stone cold, regardless if it was running or not. That's the nice thing about carbs, it doesn't have to be running yet you can still get it roughly adjusted.

So, I would check the accelerator pump action as Old4x says, and then setup the choke. Once you got that done, then you can proceed to dial it in. Now that the timing is right.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 03:52 PM   #53
JeepJon15
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Old4x. I pumped the throttle with the engine off and saw no gas. Does that mean i bumped something loose or didnt put something back correctly in the carb when replacing the 3 gaskets? I'll look in the haynes manual and see if i can see what youre talking about.

I also think i have the choke set correctly now, though i havent tried to start it since yesterday. Anyway like i said ill do some reading and check back here from time to time today. Thanks!
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Unread 12-17-2011, 04:33 PM   #54
JeepJon15
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Okay so, i hope i did the right thing here... but i took the top off the carb, where the first main gasket is. What i believe is the accelerator pump is sticking out of the bottom. The little plunger piece on it is bent, looks like it was pinched or something when reinstalling. It is also a bit floppier than the one in my rebuild kit. Is this the part you were questioning? Can i just replace this part and see how the carb acts? Or do I need to use the whole kit when I start replacing parts?

Thanks!

Edit: I've started doing some reading since this post and am planning on just using the whole rebuild kit unless i hear i should do otherwise from you guys. It seems like a lot of parts, so wish me luck here, starting tonight if possible. Do i need to let the parts soak for like 10 hours like some people say? Or is a couple hours okay? I suppose i could just tear it down tonight and let it soak overnight if that is the way to go. Also, when i took the carb off, i tipped it horizontally and one of the little metal balls fell out. It is included in the kit though

(I dont need sol-vac after nutter correct? If i remember right it told me to plug the vac and disconnect the plug going to it anyway)
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Unread 12-17-2011, 06:10 PM   #55
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepJon15 View Post
Okay so, i hope i did the right thing here... but i took the top off the carb, where the first main gasket is. What i believe is the accelerator pump is sticking out of the bottom. The little plunger piece on it is bent, looks like it was pinched or something when reinstalling. It is also a bit floppier than the one in my rebuild kit. Is this the part you were questioning? Can i just replace this part and see how the carb acts? Or do I need to use the whole kit when I start replacing parts?

Thanks!
A bent pump would do it for sure. The "floppy" bit means the diaphgram is stiff and worn out. How long you soak it for depends on how fast it starts to come clean. I used to use an old toothbrush to help it along. Sometimes you can run a string thru the small holes to scrub them out too. I would at least use all the new gaskets and the new pump if nothing else. Probably whatever springs it came with too. Make everything as shiny as possible, carbs like it clean.
.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 08:46 PM   #56
JeepJon15
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Okay guys, i have a kind of specific question about the carb. The very top, under the little dust plate on the front side of the carb where the screws the the accelerator pump are located. There is a little spring loaded lever that moves when the pump is pushed up through, and opens a valve with a little rubber sealer on it. If i push the spring loaded pump up all the way it pushes past the lever and gets stuck. This cant be normal? What should i do to correct this??
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Unread 12-17-2011, 09:50 PM   #57
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepJon15 View Post
Okay guys, i have a kind of specific question about the carb. The very top, under the little dust plate on the front side of the carb where the screws the the accelerator pump are located. There is a little spring loaded lever that moves when the pump is pushed up through, and opens a valve with a little rubber sealer on it. If i push the spring loaded pump up all the way it pushes past the lever and gets stuck. This cant be normal? What should i do to correct this??

That is a bowl vent. With the carb assembled, the lever can not go far enough to jump the little lever and jam it. The first time I saw that, I was concerned as well. After some study, I saw it is a non-issue once everything is in place and the carb assembled.

Pay attention when putting the top back on that the main jet needles go back into the jets. I got one out of place once and bent it into a U shape. Also a little light grease on the accelerator pump diaphram will help it slip into place if it seems to want to hang. It shouldn't (the bore is tapered IIRC), but it is one reason I keep a tube of Parker O-Lube in my box.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 10:47 PM   #58
JeepJon15
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Okay thanks, that was really worrying me. Is it the linkage arm that will stop the pump from getting stick on the bowl vent arm? In other words, its not the cover that is supposed to be stopping it correct?
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Unread 12-17-2011, 11:58 PM   #59
JeepJon15
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Okay i got the carb back on and tried to start it and it fired up after just one crank. Awesome. But she then shut off and apparently i didnt have much juice left in the battery still, cuz then the battery died. Anyway, its 1 a.m here, and i dont think anyone would take kindly to me waking them up for a jump. So ill pick up on it again tomorrow... but i have a good feeling she'll start with a charged battery and a little love.

Nevermind the above post, i see what you meant once the linkage was hooked up.

Fingers are crossed here, goodnight all.
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Unread 12-18-2011, 10:27 AM   #60
JeepJon15
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Got a jump and she fired right up. I must have done something right. Only thing lingering is a slight miss. It seems to be only when idling, in park or in gear. This slight miss sometimes drops my rpms enough in drive or reverse to make it stall out. My timing is right at 8*. I have the idle up a little high to compensate, but it goes from about 1k in park to 6-700 in gear.

It is supposed to be at 850 in gear i believe, since its auto, but is it normal for the rpms to drop so much? Now that i have it running i can properly check all the vacuum hoses for leaks one more time, but i'm pretty happy with my progress so far. Thanks for all your help guys, now to just get rid of that miss. When timing the thing on the first cylinder I can see the timing light stutter when the engine stumbles.
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4.2 , carb , hei , idle , YJ

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