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Unread 05-27-2008, 09:32 PM   #16
Jeebs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenthunder View Post
This is awesome. I want to do this so bad with my 07 4-dr but don't have the time or heart to rip everything off right now lol. Really cool future project! How much does the stuff cost?
I feel your pain! Its much easier to pull the trigger on a 18 year old YJ that you paid $400 for.

The kit runs ~$100 and with the extra cleaners and chemicals you are looking at ~$150 out the door.

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Unread 05-28-2008, 11:47 PM   #17
goldenthunder
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Wow that's not bad. Prolly insanely cheaper than having it done! (Lol like I trust anyone else ripping apart my baby any more than myself!) Great walkthrough though! My dad and I are thinking about doing it this fall before winter! Thanks!
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Unread 06-08-2008, 11:33 AM   #18
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Great writeup. Just did mine. I removed everything also. I washed the tub with a water based degreaser like Purple Power first. Then wire brushed any rusty looking spots. I used 3 scotchbrite pads, 1 came with the kit + 2 others, to scuff the surfaces. I would recommend taping the top of the tub and doorway. You'll find yourself putting you hand here to lean in and if there's Herc on you gloves it'll be there.
I bought chemical resistant gloves and a can of Xylol (xylene). The Xylol cleans up herc from unwanted places quick. It's also the only thinner you can use to add to the herc. It's worth having for cleanup. I also wiped the whole tub out with it just before I applied the herc.
I also used the foam ear plugs. They're tricky to remove. Also golf tees work.
I Herced right over the drain holes. My 1" plastic plugs popped right in without trouble.
Basically I'd add to the list of stuff to get:
- Chemical resistant gloves
- Xylol
- Metal paint stirrer. I used a drill type for driveway sealer. Mixed the herc up quick.
- Blue painters tape
- Lots of clean rags
- 1 extra cheapo brush for the second coat in the tight spots.

BTW: After all the seats and console are out my son and I were able to remove the family roll bar as 1 piece. With the seat belt retractors and sound bar still attached. It's not that heavy. Just lift by the main hoop floor mounts. I didn't have to fold down the windshield.
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Unread 06-08-2008, 12:20 PM   #19
93jeepREDSOX
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This was a really ggod write up, pushed me into doing mine a couple months back. I am just going to say that if you are someone that does not want to go into that much prep, not taking the cage and seats out, it can still be done. More prep for me went into taping off what i didn't take out.





It still came out good and that was because of everything else that newblue90 suggested to do. I just didn't want to mess with getting my cage and seats out.
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Unread 06-08-2008, 02:55 PM   #20
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That is great


I can't wait to do the same to mine
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Unread 06-13-2008, 07:31 PM   #21
Burnerman
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Here's my before and after....
p6070009.jpg   p6070016.jpg   p6070037.jpg   p6070040.jpg  
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Unread 06-13-2008, 07:42 PM   #22
TJSport01
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sweet write up, a couple of questions thou i have old knock off herculiner that is in just the back that didnt work well, its starting to peel and scrape off because of poor prep, what should i do to it before i try the said directions?????
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Unread 06-13-2008, 11:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diverdude2890 View Post
sweet write up, a couple of questions thou i have old knock off herculiner that is in just the back that didnt work well, its starting to peel and scrape off because of poor prep, what should i do to it before i try the said directions?????
Well, I've never tried removing it before, I would say the fastest way would be to hit it with a wire wheel on a grinder. Before laying down new stuff you may want to prime any bare metal just to be safe.
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Unread 06-14-2008, 08:00 AM   #24
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prime it with what????
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2001 Jeep TJ, 1in JKS Body Lift, 35x12.50x15in Goodyear Mtr's and a RE 4.5 SF with AA sye, tom woods custom cv drive shaft, tnt tube fenders w/3in flares and flush mounted led turn signals, 1in mml, cobra cb and firestik, custom rock sliders, herced, trail scars

Looking for 4.88s (R&P) for a d44/d30 PM me
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Unread 06-14-2008, 09:16 AM   #25
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also where did you pic up the extra pads??? auto zone? and i am not familiar with tps so could you enlighten me
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Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=683648
2001 Jeep TJ, 1in JKS Body Lift, 35x12.50x15in Goodyear Mtr's and a RE 4.5 SF with AA sye, tom woods custom cv drive shaft, tnt tube fenders w/3in flares and flush mounted led turn signals, 1in mml, cobra cb and firestik, custom rock sliders, herced, trail scars

Looking for 4.88s (R&P) for a d44/d30 PM me
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Unread 06-14-2008, 10:15 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diverdude2890 View Post
prime it with what????
Primer! You can get a rattle can of it at Kragen, Autozone, Napa, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diverdude2890 View Post
also where did you pic up the extra pads??? auto zone? and i am not familiar with tps so could you enlighten me
Extra green scuff pads can be acquired from Walmart, Home Depot, etc. Just green scouring pads.

TSP stands for trisodium phosphate and is a fairly common cleaning agent. It works well as a stain remover and a degreaser. It is fairly toxic though and needs to be disposed of properly. I used a TSP substitute which works close enough, can be safely washed away and is non-toxic. As with the scouring pads, I got the TSP substitute at Home Depot.
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Unread 06-14-2008, 10:47 AM   #27
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Any supermarket will carry the green Scotchbrite pads. Look in the cleaning isle by the sponges. If you do prime the bare metal be sure to let it dry and cure before applying the Herc.
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Unread 06-14-2008, 05:45 PM   #28
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I did mine this past week after being inspired by this thread. I took everything out except the roll bar. I could not get the front bolts out to save my life. Mine had been previously sprayed with what I think was the Dupli-color bed liner. It was flaking off almost everywhere & looked like that fleck stone paint for crafts. I used a 3m paint & rust stripper kind of like this;



It took a while, But most of the old stuff came off. Vacuumed it out & wiped it all down then rolled in the new stuff. It looks awesome & I don't think it will be peeling off anytime soon
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Unread 06-15-2008, 06:18 AM   #29
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Ok. I started this process and have a few questions:

1) Am I seeing correctly in the pictures that you did not paint the area where the rollbar attaches? If so, was it's removal strictly to make the painting process easier into the corners?

2) I am seeing all these drain holes. Some don't appear to be accessible from underneath to be able to pinch the tabs easily and poke them through. Is there a trick to their removal? What's the trick for removing that rubber sealant?

3) I have what appears to be a really big drain hole in the center of the two footwells on both the driver's and passenger sides. Think those ought to come out too? They look like they can....

4) I note that some take off the strike pin for the doors and tailgate. Is there a trick to getting them back on and lined up? I'm certainly paranoid about not getting them back on and placed such that they still actually work properly.

5) Driver's seat removal..... The passenger seat was pretty easy. 4 bolts. Came right out. The driver's seat, however, seems to have 2 bolts and then 2 capped bolts. These 2 capped ones are the issue. Are these carriage bolts that I need to get at from underneath? If so, I'll start the PB process on them. If not, what's the trick?

I started on this yesterday. Plan to finish up next weekend (I hate prep work on painting, so I'm allowing plenty of time for when I get ticked off [or too drunk]). Here's what I've done so far:



The driver's seat is still in so that I can drive to a buddy's house who has more area to paint and a second garage bay. Also, same goes for the hardtop. It's on until I get it over there.
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Unread 06-15-2008, 06:46 AM   #30
Burnerman
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1, I painted the entire floor. The rollbar sits on the herc.

2, I just pryed up on them. You may bend the tabs making them unusable. Have some replacement plastic ones on hand if you plan on reinstalling. Leave the rubber sealant on there unless it's loose and peeling up.

3, If you plan on removing them after the Herc take them out. Herc them separate then put them back in when it's done and dry.

4 Tape off the door strikers if you don't wanna remove. I left mine in.

5, The 2 seat bolts have welded nuts in boxed in channel. There should be a 1"drain hole just behind the seat, If you pop that out you'll be in that channel. You could spray PB in that way or use a small torch and heat the bolt heads then douse it with PB while still warm. Use Caution and have a fire extigusher handy just in case! Use anti seize on the bolts when you reinstall.
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