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Jeebs 03-14-2008 11:45 AM

Herculiner How To, with questions and answers!!
 
I've received a few inquires as to how I did my Herculiner install on my YJ. I figured I would through it up on here with some of the down and dirty basics.

I cannot stress enough that the amount of preparation you put into your work is going to directly affect the outcome. Put in the extra effort!

I recommend that you have a lot of small ziplock bags available. Use these to put bolts/parts in as you remove them. You should also label where it came from. For example, "rear bench bolts."

A single Herculiner kit (1 gallon Herculiner, 1 roller handle, 2 rollers, 1 scouring pad) is sufficient to complete the job but to do a great job I would recommend purchasing the following:
  • 2-3 more scouring pads
  • TSP Substitute (this is in a liquid form and is non-toxic so you don't need to worry about clean up and disposal as with regular TSP)
  • Blue painters masking tape
  • Acetone
  • Paper "drop cloth"

Tools Used:
  • Torx bit set - Use a higher quality set (Craftsman, Snap-on, etc as poor quality torx bit will simply "twist")
  • Security torx bit set
  • Elbow grease
  • Various screwdrivers
  • Socket set

To start begin by removing all seats. This includes any risers they may be attached to. For a YJ there are 4 bolts each for the front 2 seats bolted to the tub. The rear seat is secured with 2 brackets to the bottom of the tub with 4 torx bolts. You also need to remove the brackets from the side of the tub that secure the rear bench down.

Next, remove all seat belt bolts. There are 4 bolts in the rear for the bench (YJ). For the drivers seat there is one bolt on each side mounted on the roll bar. This is a security torx bolt. There are 2 more torx on the tub, one on each side of the seat.

Remove the center console. On a YJ there are 2 bolts on the bottom of the stock center console. Next, remove all of the carpet and carpet padding. Remove all drain plugs and keep them in a safe place if you plan on reusing.

Remove the nobs on top of the shifter (manual trans) and T/C shifter. Unbolt the rubber jackets over the shifters. Remove the metal plate that shields the transmission.

Now remove any door latch assemblies bolted to the tub. This includes the tailgate.

On the tailgate, be sure to remove the latch assembly that is on the door as well as the plastic cover on the lower arm.

Start removing the roll cage. Unbolt the roll bars from the windshield. Next, begin to release the windshield to be able to lay it down (bolts at the bottom of the windshield on either side). Then go to the main hoop and slide the padding towards the windshield end. This will expose a security torx bit. Unbolt that bit and remove the bar that connects the main hoop to the windshield. After both sides have been done begin removing the torx bolts from the tub. Pull the roll cage out.

This is what you should see

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2042.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2045.jpg

Start cleaning out the tub. If you have any rust, hit it with a wire wheel. Clean the tub out with some water if its really dirty. Next, hit it with some TSP. This will get rid of any grease and stuck on grime.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2048.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2051.jpg

Next, using the scouring pads, scrub the entire tub down with acetone. You are trying to remove all gloss. You also are trying to create a rougher surface for the Herucliner to bond to.

Now begin to mask off the areas you do not want to be covered. This is all bolt holes and drain holes. For the drain plugs I went a different route than most. I covered the entire drain hole with tape and then cut a circle out of it using a scalpel. It worked out incredibly well and created very sharp, clean looking lines.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2053.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2054.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2055.jpg

For the bolt holes I used the small wads of tape. Be sure to leave a bit through the top that you can use to pull it out. For the smaller holes (the center console and the strap connectors next to the door panel on the floor board) I used match sticks. They worked great. Mask off all areas you do not want to be covered with masking tape. Here is a completed masking job on my YJ tub. I chose not to put Herculiner under my roll cage mounts. Either way would probably work fine.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2058.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2062.jpg

Jeebs 03-14-2008 11:56 AM

Now its time to paint! Start by mixing the Herculiner very very well! You also have to continue to mix it as you go to keep the rubber bits suspended in the paint and not allow them to settle. I would recommend starting at the tailgate. Use the supplied brush and use the "dab" technique. Do not brush it, its almost like tapping. Use this method around the edges and any tight areas. Now roll the tailgate.

REMEMBER THIS IS A VERY LIGHT COAT! You should still be able to see the paint under the first coat of Herculiner.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2066.jpg

Now start with the tub. Do the top and sides of the wheel wells as well as the floor in the rear where the seat would be. Work your way forward until you have a good complete layer down. Allow it to dry until tacky. The time varies depending on temperature and humidity.

You can go up as high as you see fit on the firewall.

Apply a second coat the same as the first. Again, allow it to dry until tacky and then apply a third coat (if desired) in some of the heavier used places or spots that may need to be touched up.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2073.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2077.jpg

Before it drys completely (still tacky) start removing all of your masking. Pull out all tape in holes and drain plug holes.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_2084.jpg

Allow the Herculiner to dry for 12-24 hours before doing anything!

Some say this is overkill but I recommend letting it cure COMPLETELY before reinstalling hardware. You've come this far in doing it right. Don't skimp out at the end.

After it has fully cured start reinstalling your Jeep's equipment!

TrailWorthyFab 03-14-2008 12:02 PM

Looks great!! I had that in my YJ. I played hell trying to keep it looking black. I'm not sure why dust sticks to it so much but what a great mod.
Congrats on a good job:thumbsup:

NewJeepFever 03-14-2008 01:08 PM

Great write up!

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

A couple more stupid questions though:

1) Do you HAVE to fold the front window down to be able to remove the roll cage?

2) I don't have a garage, so I will be doing this outside. How worried should I be about bugs and little particles getting on the Herculiner while drying and staying there?

Thanks again!

Jeebs 03-14-2008 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewJeepFever (Post 4949709)
Great write up!

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

A couple more stupid questions though:

1) Do you HAVE to fold the front window down to be able to remove the roll cage?

2) I don't have a garage, so I will be doing this outside. How worried should I be about bugs and little particles getting on the Herculiner while drying and staying there?

Thanks again!

1) To an extent yes. This is because the bar that connects the main hoop to the windshield needs to slide forward to come off. You could pull the entire cage off in one piece but it will be heavier and more awkward to move around.

2) Unless you live in the desert and its windy as hell you are probably ok. I would recommend finding an enclosed place to do it. This is simply because it takes a long time to prep and even longer to paint and let dry. Plan on the rig being out of commission for 2 days if ya do it right.

Sahara Matt 03-24-2008 01:53 PM

Thanks for all your work. My herculiner just arrived last night and I have everything stripped and ready to go. I just decided to take a quick look to see if anyone had done a write-up before I got started to give me any tips. Good timing!

Whobeme 03-26-2008 03:07 PM

Nice write up. Something that made my job a little easier and quicker was using foam ear plugs in the bolt holes rather than taping them. The first Jeep I did I taped everything and it took forever. The second Jeep I did I used ear plugs and cut down the prep time a lot.

Si1ver03Rubicon 03-27-2008 11:19 PM

Great write up. Looks great, I think this gave me the push to do it myself and save!

Would it be possible to let it dry for 24hrs. Then tape off a square around where the floor mats would go and apply a couple more coats? I always thought that would look cool + be functional to have built in floormats.

Jeebs 03-31-2008 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Si1ver03Rubicon (Post 5010511)
Great right up. Looks great, I think this gave me the push to do it myself and save!

Would it be possible to let it dry for 24hrs. Then tape off a square around where the floor mats would go and apply a couple more coats? I always thought that would look cool + be functional to have built in floormats.

Huh... Well, I've never really thought of that. I guess I don't see why it wouldn't work. I would imagine you would have to put another 3 coats or so to get the depth you are looking for. Otherwise it would just look like the rest.

If you do it make sure and post some pics!

squibload 04-03-2008 07:03 PM

Really nice looking job!!!:2thumbsup:

CopperCJ7 05-09-2008 11:38 PM

I went with Herculiner as well on my CJ. He is SO right about prep... It really matters. Wear clothes that don't matter, wear gloves and wear a RESPIRATOR! I used the one gallon and wound up buying two more quarts. I covered the 4 wheel wells, the tub, the gas tank skid plate and the bottoms of the roll bar with two coats. Reason: The roll bar pad doesn't cover all the way down. I've even seen Jeeps that the Herculiner (or similar products) were used on the outside in lieu of paint. Probably cuts down on the "Arizona Pinstripe" factor.

CaptainJaxx 05-10-2008 09:33 PM

Great writeup. Thanks.

What are the advantages of taking off the roll cage?

Jeebs 05-11-2008 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainJaxx (Post 5201273)
What are the advantages of taking off the roll cage?

Well, it is mostly so you don't cover the bottom of the bars in Herculiner. If you do, you essentially "glue" the cage in. If you try and remove it afterwards you can potentially pull some of the surrounding liner up off the tub. If you want to cover the bottom of the roll bars you should still pull them out and line them separately. I would also recommend either not doing the bolts, or again, doing them separately because if you do it with the bars you will never be able to remove them. On top of that, if you remove the bars (Herculiner on them or not) you will end up with a cleaner finish.

CaptainJaxx 05-11-2008 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewBlue90 (Post 5202595)
Well, it is mostly so you don't cover the bottom of the bars in Herculiner. If you do, you essentially "glue" the cage in. If you try and remove it afterwards you can potentially pull some of the surrounding liner up off the tub. If you want to cover the bottom of the roll bars you should still pull them out and line them separately. I would also recommend either not doing the bolts, or again, doing them separately because if you do it with the bars you will never be able to remove them. On top of that, if you remove the bars (Herculiner on them or not) you will end up with a cleaner finish.

Great points. Thanks.

goldenthunder 05-27-2008 09:11 PM

This is awesome. I want to do this so bad with my 07 4-dr but don't have the time or heart to rip everything off right now lol. Really cool future project! How much does the stuff cost?


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