HELP - ignition switch removal - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > HELP - ignition switch removal

ANOTHER Rockridge4wd Creation!! Spare Tire Carrier Delete Cess Recovery Gear Snatch Tow Strap OffRoad @ ROCKRIDGE4WD15 x 8 Black D-Window Steel Wheels Set of 4

Reply
Unread 05-21-2013, 07:07 PM   #31
marine_zl
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 12
The end of the rod attached to the ignition switch is bent in an L but we can't figure out how it engages the switch or is supposed to be installed. Does anyone have a photo of their switch?

marine_zl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-21-2013, 07:09 PM   #32
marine_zl
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 12
The end of the ignition rod is bent in an L. Can't figure out how that fits with the switch and engages.
marine_zl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-21-2013, 07:51 PM   #33
marine_zl
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 12
Ok so in the bottom of the switch there is a small hole the rod fits into the L faces up into it. The rod pushes the inside of the switch to connect the two harness ends and activate the accessories and the starter. The solenoid clicks but starter motor does not. I closed the circuit (I think) by using a screwdriver to touch the two large bolts on the starter. The starter motor whirred but did not engage the flywheel or engine. No crank. Fuse is good. Any other ideas? I'm back to square one. Good news is I have a new key cylinder and switch.....
marine_zl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-22-2013, 06:21 AM   #34
daviddoughty1
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: overbrook, ok
Posts: 36
Use only one side of a set of jumper cables. Make a direct connection from battery negative to bare metal body of starter, try ignition switch. If it starts you have a bad starter ground {painted surfaces of starter?, engine block ground strap ?}
If it doesn't start then take the jumper cable off battery negative and starter body {both ends} and connect it to large bolt {positive connection of starter motor} take the other end of cable and touch it to positive of battery.
If the starter motor is good it only needs 12 volts positive and negative to operate, use your single jumper cable to find out which one is missing.

I gave up on autozone starters a long time ago after I got tired of " trying until I got a good one"
daviddoughty1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-22-2013, 08:33 AM   #35
RustyNutts
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: , AL
Posts: 98
I don't have a Wrangler yet, hopefully this afternoon. I have a CJ, but I'm cruising the YJ section just learning a bit more.

If your Jeep is a manual transmission, check to see if there is a switch under your clutch that gets pushed in before you crank.
I'm a noob to YJ's so pardon my ignorance about this, but I just replaced a starter/solenoid on a '91 Chevy but the problem ended up being
the clutch switch that has to be pushed in for the truck to crank. There was a loose wire keeping switch from activating and tying the wire up with a zip tie did the trick.
This may not be your problem, but I wasted 140 bucks on a new starter (kept the old one so now I have two)
RustyNutts is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-23-2013, 05:40 PM   #36
marine_zl
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by daviddoughty1 View Post
Use only one side of a set of jumper cables. Make a direct connection from battery negative to bare metal body of starter, try ignition switch. If it starts you have a bad starter ground {painted surfaces of starter?, engine block ground strap ?}
If it doesn't start then take the jumper cable off battery negative and starter body {both ends} and connect it to large bolt {positive connection of starter motor} take the other end of cable and touch it to positive of battery.
If the starter motor is good it only needs 12 volts positive and negative to operate, use your single jumper cable to find out which one is missing.

I gave up on autozone starters a long time ago after I got tired of " trying until I got a good one"
no luck Dave. I didn't get anything from either. Any chance the knucklehead at the shop didn't test the battery or starter properly? What about this ism I keep reading about? Right now my troubleshooting is eliminating everything
marine_zl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-23-2013, 05:53 PM   #37
marine_zl
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 12
Ok I closed the connection between the two large bolts on the starter. The main power (+) and the bolt on the solenoid. We turned the key and it spun the starter motor but didn't engage the flywheel. What does this indicate? There was no difference when I did saves method. Solenoid still clicked bit that's it for bot the pos and neg
marine_zl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 09:21 AM   #38
XJ93
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 698
If your starter is not engaging the flywheel your starter is shot. If everything else checks out that is your only option left. Depending on how they "tested" it at the shop it would still "test good". I.E. if they just hooked it to a battery to see if it spins, whereas where I work we actually have a proper tester that checks for draw, puts a load on, and gives us a good-bad notification. It really sounds like your starter was getting weak and now the bendix doesn't kick out makes me think it's dead.
XJ93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 03:16 PM   #39
daviddoughty1
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: overbrook, ok
Posts: 36
I agree , I've had pretty good luck with o Reilly's starters compared to really bad at autozone
daviddoughty1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 10:55 PM   #40
XJ93
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 698
Yes, new does not mean good. I have sold starters that have been out of the box bad. It's very few and far between but it happens.
XJ93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-26-2013, 08:29 AM   #41
timatoe
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grass Valley California
Posts: 13,587
Quote:
Originally Posted by daviddoughty1 View Post
I agree , I've had pretty good luck with o Reilly's starters compared to really bad at autozone
That's funny since (unless you buy their all new not remanned starters) they're both built with the exact same parts in the same Unit Parts factory in south OKC.

Back to the problem at hand, check, double check, then replace the 20 some odd year old battery cables.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by George Orwell
We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.
timatoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-06-2013, 12:42 PM   #42
marine_zl
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 12
Ok problem finally solved last weekend. It was the ground at the starter relay. The clicking I was hearing was NOT in fact the solenoid, but the relay which is hard to see. The Haynes manual is worthless. The original starter (also reman'd at some point in the last 23 years) was bad. The new starter I have is from autozone, but is awesome. I plan to replace a lot of the wiring and grounds throughout at some point, but if it ain't broke....

My new problem is the steering assembly. I put the darn thing on caddywhompus so the wheel sits looking like it's left. Easy fix when i have time. The larger issue is that the flex plate that connects the horn to the depression switch is always contacting, thus always have the horn on!! Not cool. I had to stuff a blue absorbent cloth in there to keep the circuit open, but my horn is inop now.
marine_zl is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.