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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Help on axle replacement
I am nearing the end of my V8 swap in my '90 YJ (was stock) and looking forward to doing the axles next summer. (not sure how long they will last...) This is for a hobby Jeep not a daily driver. I would love some suggestions on both front and rear axles that I should start looking for in the local yards.
The new engine/drivetrain is a GenIII V8, NV3550 and NP231J. I have an SYE kit and will be getting drive shafts for the stock axles. I also dumped the front vaccum switch for a manual setup. My goal is to have a nice Jeep for casual four-wheelin as I live in an area that is not very vertically challenged. I know the stock axles are not likely to take the v8 power well, so am looking to the future for some alternatives. Also, what are the general thoughts on spacers? Good way to get that extra 1/2 inch of turning clearance? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
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#2 |
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Got my eye on you.....
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It comes down to what you will be wheelin in. If it is casual like you said, a dual Dana 44 swap is good. Personally, with that setup, I would look into a D44 front, Dana 60 rear.
How much lift do you have and do you have more plans to lift it??
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http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...k_banner-1.gif Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08 |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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No lift at the present time. No real plans on lift unless needed for wheels/tires. Was thinking of this in stages, current plan is:
1. Engine/drivetrain (almost finished) 2. Interior/paint - spring/summer 3. axles - summer 2008 4. wheels/tires Thinking that I should wait on the wheels/tires until I get the axles figured out. How do I tell what kind of vehicles would have a Dana 44/60 in them? Would a salvage yard know if they had some of these hanging around? |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I would go with a 44/60 or dual 60's with a V8. An ideal setp up for a driver drop transfer case is a 78-79 F-250 with 4WD. But a Ford F-250 with 4WD is a good place to start. Look for solid fronts, don't settle for IFS.
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My Build Up 95 YJ, D30/8.8 w/ 4.88s, SOA, 35x14.50x16.5 Pit Bull Mud Dawgs, 101" Wheelbase, Custom Front Bumper, Winch, Custom Rear Tow Points, Traction Bar, Aussie Locker in front, 20 Gal. Gas Tank modification, Hurculiner Tub, Custom Rear Bumper, SYE and CV shaft, BTF Cross-over Steering, RCI 2191 fuel cell, BTF Rockers, RE 1.5" SOA springs up front and XJ springs in the rear Down the line a bit...engine swap, the list goes on. |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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great link get your mind going
http://www.jeeptech.com/convaxle/d44.html
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#6 |
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Registered User
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---------------------------------------------------- 89 YJ, 5.8L ford, hp44 front, 14 Bolt Rear, Locked, SOA, SwayAway Shocks, LOTS of Custom Tube Work, and literally thousands of hours of Blood, Sweat and Tears! Last edited by ryanelworthy; 12-02-2007 at 11:23 AM.. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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It all depends on the budget, are you looking for lockers? Are you looking to keep the jeep narrow, or go to a full width set up? If narrow, and a tight budget, go with a ford explorer 8.8 rear, pretty strong and parts are readily available, they came with a decent limited slip that would work well for light wheeling. If you did that you could keep that Dana 30 and stick some 4340 shafts in it and be ok up to 35" or 37" tires. Or you could get a set of Dana 60s, then have them narrowed, but make sure to get the correct rear, most come with 30 spline shafts and the spindles are small enough that machining then to accept the 35 spline shafts leaves then paper thin.
If you want to go full width, you could do what I did, use a gm 14 bolt (found in nearly every 3/4-1 ton Chevy truck made from like 71 to date), once again parts are available, and inexpensive to build due to the fact that they are nearly indestructible in stock form. 1.5" 35 spline shafts! I used a Dana 44 front out of a 78 f-250, I would recommend if you take this route, skip the 44 and get yourself a Dana 60 front, more expensive initially, but way stronger. I have near $4000 invested in parts in my front diff between gears, locker, bearings, seals, brakes, high steer, 4340 shafts, and u joints, and still no where near as strong as a moderately built 60. But than again, what’s the point in building it this tuff if you don’t need it? If I was you, Id find an 8.8, spend a little money on that Dana 30, and call it good till you start braking stuff, or decide you need bigger than 35" tires, than dive into the 60 swap. Hope all my rambling has helped. Ryan
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---------------------------------------------------- 89 YJ, 5.8L ford, hp44 front, 14 Bolt Rear, Locked, SOA, SwayAway Shocks, LOTS of Custom Tube Work, and literally thousands of hours of Blood, Sweat and Tears! |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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It sounds like the rear from an explorer might be the best way to start and adding 4340 shafts to the front. I don't plan (right now anyway) on running tires larger than 32 so that sounds like a workable plan. Would any of the newer Explorer rears (with disc brakes) work? That seems like something the local yards would have a few of hanging around. I assume I would have to make sure the gearing is the same or change it to match the front (or the other way around). Thanks again, this really helps with my thinking/planning.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Since folks have brought up the Explorer...they had the same 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern as the YJ? I'm seeing that at a few place online, but it seems to good to be true.
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
and good luck to ya
__________________
98 TJ- Kilby gastank/ steering box skids, Sky jacker high clearance tcace skid, 1'' BL, M.O.R.E. 1" MM's, Poison spyder rocker guards and sport cage, Warn XD9000i on A to Z fab Winch plate, RE 2" BB, Nth Diff slider, Quick disco's, PSC Rock Ring, JB Conversions Super short SYE kit, and a burly CV Drive shaft. LOTS more to come I wave, Do you? |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
The only down side is that they are 1.5 inches less than the 35, but thats only 3/4 of an inche on each side.
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I'm forever grateful to Speedycat and RnEmOvr for their generosity |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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14 bolt, and d60 rears are cheap. Don't wast money on stuff that is almost strong enough for a v8, and not nearly wide enough to stabilize any lift at all.
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
WMS = wheel mount surface
__________________
I'm forever grateful to Speedycat and RnEmOvr for their generosity |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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That's what I thought you meant (only explanation I could think of)...it just boggles my mind that the YJ would be wider. Thanks for the info!
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