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post #1 of 9 Old 09-13-2011, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
SpikesHD
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Hei

I bought (rescued) a Heep that had a Solex and the cheap HEI conversion already done. The Solex disappeared in short order and now there is a Weber 38 in it's place.

I had the 258 rebuilt because there was an ominous knock deep in the bowels of the block. At the same time I replaced the motor mounts (brown dog), removed all extra wiring and replaced everything replaceable (rad, water pump, alt, battery etc.)

This worked great for a while but it was hard to start sometimes and ran rough when hot.

I work in a local driveshaft shop and heard good things about a new local mechanic, so I dropped the Heep with him for a tune up. $130 later (oil change, timing and carb tune) and the Heep was running OK under normal power, but pinging (rattling) like CRAZY under load.

I don't want to cause issues with the mechanic (he brings us some business) but now the Heep is hard to keep running after starting cold (I have to 'foot feed' it for a while) it has a very sporadic miss at idle all the time and it has a HORRIBLE rattling under any kind of throttle load.

I mean HORRIBLE.

The mechanic told me he had to place my HEI at 16* BTDC for it to run well. From what mcmud and others have stated that may be too much.

My question... Which way (and by how much) should I turn the distributor to try to fix this?

Thanks!


Si vis pacem, para bellum.
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-13-2011, 09:46 PM
Old4X
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8 or 9 degrees is all you should need. If it were mine, I would chunk the HEI conversion (keep the ICM from the dizzy, though) and go with an original 1980 258 dizzy. Wire the ICM you stole from the HEI unit to the Jeep dizzy and you should be GTG.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-13-2011, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
SpikesHD
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I've hacked the stock ICM and OBC out of the system beyond any reconstruction.

I do have the ICM and stock Dizzy from the Heep before the PO HEI'd it but all the wiring is now gone.

Does anyone know which way I need to twist the HEI distributor to advance the timing?

Si vis pacem, para bellum.
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-13-2011, 10:20 PM
timatoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpikesHD View Post
I've hacked the stock ICM and OBC out of the system beyond any reconstruction.

I do have the ICM and stock Dizzy from the Heep before the PO HEI'd it but all the wiring is now gone.

Does anyone know which way I need to twist the HEI distributor to advance the timing?
What he's saying is to keep the actual HEI unit from the current distributor and use that as an ICM with the Jeep distributor. He's got a write up on how to do it.

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post #5 of 9 Old 09-13-2011, 10:21 PM
Old4X
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You really need to use a timing light if you are going to retime it. As to direction of twist, it is always a 50-50 guess for me. The idle speed will drop when you retard the timing (speed up with advance).

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-13-2011, 10:24 PM
Old4X
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With the stock dizzy, you only need 4 wires and the ICM from your HEI dizzy. 2 wires from dizzy pickup, one ignition hot, and a wire going to the tach connector on coil. Ground the ICM, and it will go.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-14-2011, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
SpikesHD
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OK. Thanks guys!

Old4X, I'm going to try and hunt down the write - up you did on the dizzy swap. What is the advantage over the HEI that's in there now?

Thanks.

Si vis pacem, para bellum.
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-14-2011, 12:45 PM
mcmud
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Until you decide which way to go with which ever distributor you will want to retard the initial timing, with a clockwise turn. Without having a light connected how much rotation is anyones guess.

If the engine doesn't want to maintain a decent idle speed (600-650rpm)once the timing is reset to the point that ping is omitted....for the short haul fatten up the fuel mixture.

These HEI's can be setup so aggressive, with regard to vacuum and a radical centrifugal advance curve that ping is assured.

Until you get a grip on the cause I suggest that you also disconnect/plug the vacuum advance tube.

A setting between 6-10* BTDC should omit ping..., this is actually dependent on the amount of advance that is being added with load and rpm.....and if the carb is not setup too lean.

If ping occurs at the lower side of that range it is a sure thing that the carb is in need of attention as well.


This rattle is the warning sign of potential engine destruction and should be stopped ASAP.
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-15-2011, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
SpikesHD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud
This rattle is the warning sign of potential engine destruction and should be stopped ASAP.
That's bad. I just had the engine rebuilt!

Si vis pacem, para bellum.
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