Originally Posted by K4KAS
No specific sequence on removal. But make sure to follow the sequence upon installation! I dont have that either!
Also make sure to use new headbolts.
Cylinder head screws are removed in the reverse order of installation - on the AMC six, this means you're going to start on the outside (driver's side rear, actually) and do an anticlockwise spiral going inwards (pax rear/pax front/driver's front/...)
Suggest you go around and break torque on the screws (turning them about a half-turn should serve,) then unscrew and remove them once you've "broken" them all.
New head screws are a good idea, but not strictly mandatory in most cases (the 242ci head screws are only good for two
torque cycles. Diesels in general are only good for one
I probably have the torque spec for the 258ci up on my site, but I can't swear to it as of yet. If it's not there, it's an oversight I need to correct.
Installation/torquing sequence starts at the pax side centre, then driver's side centre, and spiral outwards clockwise. I'll typically torque the screws in stages - 25/50/75/... pound-feet (for instance, the 242ci. Head screws are torqued to 110 pound-feet, except the driver's side front at 100. So, 25/50/75/100/110 pound-feet. This gives a more even compression of the cylinder head gasket, and more even downforce on the head (due to the more gradual torquing of the cylinder head screws.) This helps ensure good sealing and helps to prevent warping - yes, I've seen heads get warped from being installed wrong
, and not gettting heat-cycled at all (not on an AMC six - not even an iron head in general. But, I'm not about to start, either...)