Head light relay mod write up....WOW what a difference - Page 18 - JeepForum.com

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post #256 of 444 Old 01-13-2014, 02:51 PM
Bologna
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Build the harness yourself, it is easier than it sounds and you can ensure it is done right and the wires are the right length. I made mine out of 10 gauge wire because you can never go overkill on power wire.

Great guide, so I wanted to bump this up for future Jeepers.


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post #257 of 444 Old 01-13-2014, 04:18 PM
ddferdt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bologna
Build the harness yourself, it is easier than it sounds and you can ensure it is done right and the wires are the right length. I made mine out of 10 gauge wire because you can never go overkill on power wire. Great guide, so I wanted to bump this up for future Jeepers.
You can go overkill with 500 mcm ::thumb::
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post #258 of 444 Old 01-13-2014, 04:29 PM
jeff_in_rc
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Originally Posted by ddferdt View Post
You can go overkill with 500 mcm ::thumb::
Or 750 MCM!

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post #259 of 444 Old 01-13-2014, 05:30 PM
Luuca
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I'm not 100% sure what year XJ I took it off of, but I know that the relay box/fuse box under the hood of the older XJ I found in the junkyard had the same exact lid as my last flip YJ with the only difference being that the top had a slant to it and the relay box mount was not directly bolted to the battery tray like the YJ relay box is. With that in mind, I plan on going to the junkyard and grabbing a complete relay box out of the older XJ. It has it's own mount that bolts to the inner fender, and I can use it as a very clean and stock-looking relay block when I do my light mod. When mounted along side the stock relay box under the hood, it will provide that clean semi-stock look, help me hide and protect the wires, and another big plus is that there is also built-in fuses so any in-line fuses that would normally be dangling from the additional wires will be hidden and protected under the lid. When I finally start my project, I'll do a write-up on it as an alternative to self-tapping screwing the two additional relays somewhere on the fender.

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post #260 of 444 Old 01-13-2014, 05:33 PM
Lemoore-on
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard_ View Post
update , relays are junk , you are better off building your own , i was impressed at first , also the relays are not an easy find to replace , i found what looks to be the same for $12.95 shipped , hope this works , I will be building a new harness my self in the future , on the plus side , the auto-pal headlights are pretty nice for the price
Thanks Richard

Mike

92YJ with some stuff done to it.
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post #261 of 444 Old 01-13-2014, 08:46 PM
Michaelgoesrawr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca
I'm not 100% sure what year XJ I took it off of, but I know that the relay box/fuse box under the hood of the older XJ I found in the junkyard had the same exact lid as my last flip YJ with the only difference being that the top had a slant to it and the relay box mount was not directly bolted to the battery tray like the YJ relay box is. With that in mind, I plan on going to the junkyard and grabbing a complete relay box out of the older XJ. It has it's own mount that bolts to the inner fender, and I can use it as a very clean and stock-looking relay block when I do my light mod. When mounted along side the stock relay box under the hood, it will provide that clean semi-stock look, help me hide and protect the wires, and another big plus is that there is also built-in fuses so any in-line fuses that would normally be dangling from the additional wires will be hidden and protected under the lid. When I finally start my project, I'll do a write-up on it as an alternative to self-tapping screwing the two additional relays somewhere on the fender.
Ford explorers are a viable option as well. I had a project going for a while but it halted to a stop due to lack of parts.

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post #262 of 444 Old 01-14-2014, 10:40 PM
Bologna
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I have a quick question for everyone that has installed a fuse relay box. I have not looked at the bottom of one before, therefore, should I buy the plugs for the relays as well or just use female crimp-on disconnects? I currently have relays under my hood without the sockets but I like the idea of having all my custom mods in one box/location.

EDIT: Nevermind, I went ahead and got the sockets, it was only $4 more for 10.

If anyone wants, the best deal I found was 10 relays and sockets for $20 shipped (From USA not China). http://www.ebay.com/itm/160609103643 ** When I did this mod, I bought my two relays from autozone for $8 each and they didn't come with the sockets... Maybe I can remove them and take them back once these arrive haha

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post #263 of 444 Old 01-27-2014, 09:41 PM
bgredjeep
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I just installed this relay harness I picked up from Amazon tonight. It was very well laid out and worked well for me. The only complaint I have is that is was definitely made for a vehicle with the battery installed at the front of the engine bay. The power lead was not long enough to reach the battery. Not a big issue for me as I have a heavy gauge wire running to the front used to power my fan so I was able to connect to that. Just keep in mind if you order this harness you'll need to extend the power lead to reach the battery.

The install took about 15mins. You can see the results below. Also, since some people mentioned the relayed they got in different kits were oddball. The ones I received were standard relays like you can find anywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here's my results. Currently I have 1 sealed beam and 1 H4 (switching back to sealed beam and the parts store only had 1 at the time).


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post #264 of 444 Old 01-28-2014, 10:11 AM
kingcat400
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why go back to sealed beams?
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post #265 of 444 Old 01-28-2014, 01:06 PM
vadslram
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Originally Posted by kingcat400 View Post
why go back to sealed beams?

#1 thing I like about them is that the lenses are glass, not plastic and replaced every time the thing burns out so the lenses stay clear and bright.
#2 is that in the eventuality of a branch disagreeing with your light, the lens and bulb are much cheaper to replace.
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post #266 of 444 Old 01-28-2014, 01:57 PM
bgredjeep
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Originally Posted by kingcat400 View Post
why go back to sealed beams?
35w low beams. I just didn't want the amp draw of the typical H4 bulb. The housings I had (cheap parts store junk) sucked as well and I didn't feel like buying another better set. I certainly don't need the small amount of extra light they provide while I've got these

lol


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post #267 of 444 Old 01-28-2014, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
mudsweatNgearz
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When I did this mod it brought the ol sealed beams up to H4 brightness or very close. I think I will go back to the sealed beams myself.

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post #268 of 444 Old 05-14-2014, 12:53 PM
flcracker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudsweatNgearz View Post
High everyone,

I am going to attempt to document my method of the headlight mod using relays. This is my first write up ever and I don't pretend to be any kind of a mechanic or expert of any kind. I am sure I could have done some things better but like I said I am a total amature at this stuff and did the best I could. I was amazed at the before and after pictures of the difference in brightness.
As we all know the factory headlight system leaves much to be desired. Using under sized wiring and running all that juice up through the switch is well, just plain cheezy to say the least. I can thank this forum for the idea and the guidance to complete this mod.

To start out I used this diagram:



What you will need:

2 30 amp 12v dc relays.(one for low beam and one for high beam#..local auto parts store
A bunch of 12 ga wire of a few different colors
2 inline fuses 12 ga with 25 amp fuses
various connectors and such

I started out by cutting the wire at factory headlight connectors. I took the pins out of the connectors and cleaned them all up. Then I soldered the 12 ga wire to the factory pins and reinserted them in the connectors #I didn't want any of the factory 18 or 20 ga wire or whatever it is anywhere in the circuit). I would suggest going to the auto parts store and getting new connectors. They are an off the shelf item and don't cost much.

Use a pick or a connector disassembly tool to get the pins out of the connector.
Serious question as I am not a wiring guy but why would you use the high beam circuit to activate the low beam and vice versa?? Sorry if this has been asked somewhere in the past 18 pages....

Not the sharpest bulb in the box....

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post #269 of 444 Old 05-14-2014, 12:55 PM
Michaelgoesrawr
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Originally Posted by flcracker View Post

Serious question as I am not a wiring guy but why would you use the high beam circuit to activate the low beam and vice versa?? Sorry if this has been asked somewhere in the past 18 pages....
You wouldnt. The diagram is set up for our headlights thag share the same bulb for both circuts. Low to low, hi to hi.

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post #270 of 444 Old 05-14-2014, 01:47 PM
flcracker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr View Post
You wouldnt. The diagram is set up for our headlights thag share the same bulb for both circuts. Low to low, hi to hi.
I was looking at the diagram in the first post (that seems to be gone now from my screen?) and I swear that is what it showed, low beam circuit to high beam relay....

I had guessed that the low beam circuit would go to pin 85 in low beam relay while high beam would go into 85 on high beam relay.... that is not what the diagram showed and I wanted to clarify this because I want to do this sometime soon....

Not the sharpest bulb in the box....

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electrical , h4 , head light , headlight upgrade , relay

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