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Unread 10-01-2012, 09:02 PM   #181
SDGBASSE
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There's only one wire going to the high beams, the way I understand it the DRL module is a relay and a big resistance that cuts the power in half on the high beams. I'm thinking the extra resistance is not giving my relay enough power to stay latched but I cant confirm any numbers before tomorrow morning.

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[QUOTE=ZeroGravity;10681914]I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 10-02-2012, 10:28 AM   #182
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I narrowed it down to the DRL module, I'm getting 6V on the high beam relay and after some research i figured out its how it's supposed to work, I'll start a new thread for it sorry for the hijack.
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[QUOTE=ZeroGravity;10681914]I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 10-02-2012, 05:23 PM   #183
SDGBASSE
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For anyone who might want to keep the DRL, it's real easy just cut the high beam wire out of the module and route it to the headlamp high beam connector,cap and stow the other end (as shown in red). Takes about 5 minutes and a few feet of wire (pretty much any size will work, there's about 6V running thru it).
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[QUOTE=ZeroGravity;10681914]I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 10-31-2012, 09:41 AM   #184
gyrene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
The whole relay aspect of this is great, definite improvement, however one thing was left out of the mod. The stock switch had a thermal system where if there was overdraw, it would drop out and then come back a few seconds later, even it it then dropped out a few seconds after that. The idea is when driving at speed and electrical bad happens, you are likely not in the dark and having to stop and not hit stuff on your own. (Test... drive at 55 in traffic on a curvy road, then close your eyes, then pull over the the shoulder and stop).
Let me take a shot at this. I THINK what he is saying, is that with the relays being powered with a fused wire, if there was a short or overheating of some sort that would cause the fuse to blow, you would literally be driving blind.
If you were to put in an Auto Resetting Circuit Breaker instead of a fuse you would get the on-off-on-off just like the factory switch and be able to get off the road safely. I personally power both of my relays with seperate wires and fuses so if something goes out I can, hopefully, switch to a working to working circuit.
I have learned a lot from reading stuff posted by JeepHammer.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/be...hammer-833631/
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Unread 11-02-2012, 11:19 PM   #185
HurricaneRZA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gyrene View Post
Let me take a shot at this. I THINK what he is saying, is that with the relays being powered with a fused wire, if there was a short or overheating of some sort that would cause the fuse to blow, you would literally be driving blind.
If you were to put in an Auto Resetting Circuit Breaker instead of a fuse you would get the on-off-on-off just like the factory switch and be able to get off the road safely. I personally power both of my relays with seperate wires and fuses so if something goes out I can, hopefully, switch to a working to working circuit.
I have learned a lot from reading stuff posted by JeepHammer.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/be...hammer-833631/

It's a lot safer to carry two extra relays than to deal with a switch that randomly shuts the lights off and turns them on again... Not to mention relays are cheaper than the factory switch. Just my 2c
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[QUOTE=YoureverydayXJ;14318981]This is the most metal thing I have ever heard.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=doublins;15539665]I always get people coming over and saying things like "I wish I knew how to do that," etc- but they don't realize- at some point I didn't know how to do it either- I had to figure it out.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 11-03-2012, 08:53 AM   #186
Xpress
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
It's a lot safer to carry two extra relays than to deal with a switch that randomly shuts the lights off and turns them on again... Not to mention relays are cheaper than the factory switch. Just my 2c
A properly setup relay circuit won't be blowing fuses, unless of course you run into some freak accident, in which case it's always better to have a separate set of driving lights wired separately. Or if you're like me, you're driving lights are wired into your high beams, and all it would take is flicking on the separate switch I installed to turn the lights on.

As for blowing fuses, I went the smart alternative route and installed a fuse panel. If I blow a fuse, it's not difficult to find the blown fuse and swap it.
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Unread 11-03-2012, 05:23 PM   #187
TJMike2011
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Ok, I have 98 tj and would like to do this upgrade. But when I looked at my headlight plug, it has 5 wires coming from it. Can you tell or explain what or why there are these extra wires? Not sure they are hooked to a pin in the socket, but I didn't want to cut the plug off as it didn't look like the ones you were working on. Any info would be appreciated.
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Unread 11-03-2012, 05:39 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJMike2011
Ok, I have 98 tj and would like to do this upgrade. But when I looked at my headlight plug, it has 5 wires coming from it. Can you tell or explain what or why there are these extra wires? Not sure they are hooked to a pin in the socket, but I didn't want to cut the plug off as it didn't look like the ones you were working on. Any info would be appreciated.
Pictures would be helpful in this case.
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Unread 11-03-2012, 06:16 PM   #189
TJMike2011
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Ok, will post Picts in the AM. I have all of the material to complete this project, just couldn't figure it out to get started. Thanks.
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Unread 11-03-2012, 07:41 PM   #190
Hard_oNe
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Here are my pics.





Lights are much brighter. My 12v source is the battery terminal instead of alternator.

My attempt at a clean install.

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Unread 11-04-2012, 11:12 AM   #191
TJMike2011
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Ok, there are 4 wires on the drivers side plug and 3 on the passenger side. I think the orange wire is run from driver side to passenger side. Trying to send Picts

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image-1435441939.jpg   image-3150431674.jpg  
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Unread 11-04-2012, 11:19 AM   #192
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Ok, the Picts went. I did not check wires with meter yet, but both orange wires are hooked to pin on the drivers side. Could that jump across to the passenger side? Also, it appears to be a 12 ga wire. Should I change anyway?
Thanks

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Unread 11-04-2012, 11:32 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJMike2011
Ok, the Picts went. I did not check wires with meter yet, but both orange wires are hooked to pin on the drivers side. Could that jump across to the passenger side? Also, it appears to be a 12 ga wire. Should I change anyway?
Thanks

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If I'd have to take a guess I'd say that the orange is your low beam and your purple is your high. Black is ground.

You could go with a heavier gauge but I'm not sure you need to.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 12:17 PM   #194
mudsweatNgearz
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Yes I would say one of the red wires on the driver side socket powers your right head light. A quick check with even a test light will answer your questions.
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Unread 11-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #195
TJMike2011
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Ok, checked the drivers side plug with meter and found out that the orange wires are high beam;11.2vollts at plug and the purple wire is low beam; 11.1 at the plug. I will now make up my harnesses for direct battery power to relays and the light sockets. Thanks for the help and will keep up a post of voltage after I install relays

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electrical , h4 , head light , headlight upgrade , relay

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