Head light relay mod write up....WOW what a difference - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 442 Old 09-26-2012, 11:02 AM
Kuntryboy816
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Are these the correct relays? I sure hope so since I just got 10 of them for $18 (shipped) off of Ebay.

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Until you know exactly what is underneath the, well, not really sure what to call them...mistakes...it's hard to come up with a plan of action.
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post #167 of 442 Old 09-26-2012, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
mudsweatNgearz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuntryboy816 View Post
Are these the correct relays? I sure hope so since I just got 10 of them for $18 (shipped) off of Ebay.
Those will work just fine.

I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger and bigger....then it hit me!
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post #168 of 442 Old 09-26-2012, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
mudsweatNgearz
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I'm going back for the bracket. All I had for tools was a screwdriver and a pair of dikes, neither of which were useful in trying to remove the bracket.

-Jake
The mounting bracket was another cool feature of this box. It's sturdy, quick release and low profile. I used weatherpack for all my connections so I just unplug it, push release tabs and walla...it's off in 60 seconds!

I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger and bigger....then it hit me!
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post #169 of 442 Old 09-26-2012, 07:55 PM
USMCBuckWild
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The relays I bought aren't gonna work. The wiring is super thin. The relays are fine, but the harnesses are just way to small.
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post #170 of 442 Old 09-27-2012, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
mudsweatNgearz
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Originally Posted by USMCBuckWild View Post
The relays I bought aren't gonna work. The wiring is super thin. The relays are fine, but the harnesses are just way to small.
What I did when I was using the female harness/plug is disassemble the harnesses and wire it up with 12 awg. Easy enough to do, just get some new terminals and crimp 12awg then insert into housing till you hear click!

I looked all over hell and back for female sockets with 12awg and best I could find was 14awg on pin 30 and 87 but most were 16awg. Had a guy offer to custom make some for me with 12awg....I thought heck, I'll do that myself...so I did.

I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger and bigger....then it hit me!
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post #171 of 442 Old 09-27-2012, 08:01 AM
Orlie
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I searched for a while until I found the link below. The pic they have online is not the same as what you will receive. The connector is a replacement for the the connectors in the pigtail of pretty much any replay you purchase with a pigtail. I installed 12 gauge wire to power my lights and 14 gauge wire to close the replay. Just thought i would share.

later

Orlie

http://www.repairconnector.com/unive...2-awg-50-pack/
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post #172 of 442 Old 09-27-2012, 09:03 AM
ldso
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Great thread, great mod! I am thinking I will do this as well.

I have a question, if your headlights go off and back on like some folks have talked about, is it because the headlight switch is failing? What is the part that fails when a thermal issue happens, is it the headlight switch?

I am just wondering because I have experienced this. However I have had a cooling issue for a long time, the radiator was really bad. Now I have a new radiator and the cooling is hunky-dorey. When we say thermal, do we mean underhood temps, or the switch getting hot because it is acting as a resistor?

Hope this makes sense. Regardless, my crystal ball shows me buying a new headlight switch. Thanks.

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post #173 of 442 Old 09-27-2012, 09:22 AM
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The headlight switch is the issue. Too much current flowing through it causes it to trip on and off. This modification cuts the current down that passes through the switch from ~10amps to a negligible ammount.

All about that unibody life.
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post #174 of 442 Old 09-27-2012, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
The headlight switch is the issue. Too much current flowing through it causes it to trip on and off. This modification cuts the current down that passes through the switch from ~10amps to a negligible ammount.
This, the switch overheats and shuts off. Once it cools, it comes on again. Thats why it appears to go on-off-on-off-on-off

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I always get people coming over and saying things like "I wish I knew how to do that," etc- but they don't realize- at some point I didn't know how to do it either- I had to figure it out.
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post #175 of 442 Old 09-27-2012, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
The headlight switch is the issue. Too much current flowing through it causes it to trip on and off. This modification cuts the current down that passes through the switch from ~10amps to a negligible ammount.
Correct, same principle for the switch that controls the blower motor. In TJís itís a very big issue. Not anymore for me since I installed the relays.
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post #176 of 442 Old 09-27-2012, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
This, the switch overheats and shuts off. Once it cools, it comes on again. Thats why it appears to go on-off-on-off-on-off
Kind of like the flasher unit for your turn signals huh.

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post #177 of 442 Old 09-29-2012, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
You missed my point completely. Maybe the next guy wishing to do this mod won't.
Hurricane is right. With the relays in there the current through the switch is greatly reduced because the contact on the relay carries the headlight current. All that passes through the switch is the current needed to energize the coil on the relay. Which is a tiny ammount compared to the current draw of headlights. So if the switch itself cuts out with the relays you did something wrong.

The added relays WILL PREVENT the thermal overloads in the actual switch from tripping.

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post #178 of 442 Old 09-29-2012, 10:56 PM
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WOW!!!

1990 YJ 4.2 258 w/ MC 2100/ 2150 (Colorado Guy), 4in. Rough Country lift, Cragar Wheels, New Bestop Soft-Top, Hood-mount Hi-Lift Jack, and 1550watt Inverter
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post #179 of 442 Old 10-01-2012, 06:37 PM
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Just finished doing this and I'm running into an issue, which I'm sure is related to the DRL. When the ignition is at ON with the lights at OFF, I'm getting the 50% power high beams ON but the high beam relay is clicking like crazy, when I put the lights ON and the full high beams the relay stays closed. Any ideas? I can't bypass the DRL, they're required by law here.....

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I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.
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post #180 of 442 Old 10-01-2012, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDGBASSE
Just finished doing this and I'm running into an issue, which I'm sure is related to the DRL. When the ignition is at ON with the lights at OFF, I'm getting the 50% power high beams ON but the high beam relay is clicking like crazy, when I put the lights ON and the full high beams the relay stays closed. Any ideas? I can't bypass the DRL, they're required by law here.....
It sounds like there are two leads for your high beams. One that runs the Day time running lights and the other runs the full time highs.

Although I'm sure you would've noticed so I'm not exactly sure. Maybe it's something to do with the running light module. Do you get power to the relay switch wire with hi beams on?

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electrical , h4 , head light , headlight upgrade , relay

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