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Unread 09-17-2012, 04:13 PM   #136
B2CARPEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Actually, LED lamps are notorious for producing a LOT of heat, that's why every manufacturer of high intensity LED lamps has designed a heat sink into the back of the lamp. I'm sure the TruckLites produce plenty of heat themselves. You should feel some of the LED light bars me and some buddies use after a few hours of making our own daylight..
Very interesting.. the LEDs I've seen were the smaller offroad (low watt) lights and were cool to the touch while still providing a decent amount of light. I guess that's the difference compared to the high intensity wattage LEDs. I wouldn't doubt those light bars put out some heat especially since they are so powerful

I would be curious to hear from someone with trucklights lamps to see if their wattage is enought to provide some heat to the lense in colder climates.

Thanks for the info Xpress

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Unread 09-17-2012, 05:53 PM   #137
USMCBuckWild
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They get hot in the rear of the light, not as much on the lens end. The heat sink attached to the rear actually dissipates alot of the heat, as the most heat is generated by the diode itself.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 06:24 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by B2CARPEN View Post
Very interesting.. the LEDs I've seen were the smaller offroad (low watt) lights and were cool to the touch while still providing a decent amount of light. I guess that's the difference compared to the high intensity wattage LEDs. I wouldn't doubt those light bars put out some heat especially since they are so powerful

I would be curious to hear from someone with trucklights lamps to see if their wattage is enought to provide some heat to the lense in colder climates.

Thanks for the info Xpress
I would imagine that heat does radiate out from the light as well, same thing as with any other lamp. Put your hand in front of your headlights, about 6" out. You can still feel the heat radiating out with the light.

LED lamps can "project" heat just the same, so I'd imagine some of that residual heat could collect on the lens and head it up..
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Unread 09-18-2012, 01:17 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudsweatNgearz View Post
High everyone,

I am going to attempt to document my method of the headlight mod using relays. This is my first write up ever and I don't pretend to be any kind of a mechanic or expert of any kind. I am sure I could have done some things better but like I said I am a total amature at this stuff and did the best I could. I was amazed at the before and after pictures of the difference in brightness.
As we all know the factory headlight system leaves much to be desired. Using under sized wiring and running all that juice up through the switch is well, just plain cheezy to say the least. I can thank this forum for the idea and the guidance to complete this mod.

To start out I used this diagram:



What you will need:

2 30 amp 12v dc relays.(one for low beam and one for high beam)..local auto parts store
A bunch of 12 ga wire of a few different colors
2 inline fuses 12 ga with 25 amp fuses
various connectors and such

I started out by cutting the wire at factory headlight connectors. I took the pins out of the connectors and cleaned them all up. Then I soldered the 12 ga wire to the factory pins and reinserted them in the connectors (I didn't want any of the factory 18 or 20 ga wire or whatever it is anywhere in the circuit). I would suggest going to the auto parts store and getting new connectors. They are an off the shelf item and don't cost much.

Use a pick or a connector disassembly tool to get the pins out of the connector.



I cleaned them all up and soldered my 12 ga wire directly to the pins.



I then followed up with 3 layers of shrink tube and reinserted the pins back into the connector. Be sure the locking tabs are sticking up plenty far and listen for the click when you stick the pin back into the connector, gently tug back out on the wire to confirm a positive lock. I also coated all connections with dielectric grease.





Next I soldered in a T splice to run the other headlight and ran the loom behind the grill.



Using a pick I split the wire and inserted the other wire into the split then twisted them togeather. After soldering I used plenty of electrical tape, then zip tied over the electrical tape to keep the tape from ever unravelling and finally it will go into loom.

Next I mounted the relays on the inside of the wheel well behind the driver headlight.



I used crimp on female spade connectors to connect to the relay pins but I should have used relay connectors designed for this purpose (I will redo sometime with a solder on connector sometime).

I then ran power from my battery to the relays. I used two seperate power feeds but looking back I only needed one power feed wire then I could have soldered in a T splice just before the relays to run both relays...oh well, lots of lessons learned during this project.

On each of the power feed wires I soldered in a 12 ga 25 amp fuse holder. Be sure to get a good water resistant one with the push on cap like this one.



Loom and ziptie everything up and enjoy your much more reliable and efficient lights!!
On the before and aft pics the left headlight looks brighter because I am parked crooked in my garage and I am pretty close to the garage door.

Before:

After: Not only are they much brighter notice how much whiter the light is....can't wait for it to get dark and go for a drive... hehe


And while I am at it just for fun my white face gauge mod:






thanx for the diagram, pictures, and expanation!!

just one question.... where do you find the Low Beam Circuit and High Beam Circuit?? i think the Low Beam cable could be right behind the switch, but the High Beam is activated with the lever behind the wheel, so, where do you access those?? or am i missing something??

maybe the original wires which are used for providing power to the lights, are setup to provide power just to the relays?? if so, where do find them to wire them to the relays??

thanx!!
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Unread 09-18-2012, 02:12 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu2kill

maybe the original wires which are used for providing power to the lights, are setup to provide power just to the relays?? if so, where do find them to wire them to the relays??

thanx!!

You got it... Use the existing headlight wiring to activate the relays.
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Unread 09-18-2012, 02:36 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by Jax89Jeeper View Post
You got it... Use the existing headlight wiring to activate the relays.
thanx!! i assumed that would be the easier way, just wanted to make sure....

now, where are the wires located near the firewall?? i think i could cut them at the lights and then trace them back to the firewall, but arent they inside one of those big black looms?? where would be the easier place to have access to them??

one idea would be to cut them at the lights, and then, add an extension directly from there to the relay, but it would be a lot of extra wire, having to go back to the firewall again...
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Unread 09-18-2012, 03:14 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by shu2kill View Post
thanx!! i assumed that would be the easier way, just wanted to make sure....

now, where are the wires located near the firewall?? i think i could cut them at the lights and then trace them back to the firewall, but arent they inside one of those big black looms?? where would be the easier place to have access to them??

one idea would be to cut them at the lights, and then, add an extension directly from there to the relay, but it would be a lot of extra wire, having to go back to the firewall again...
On my 1989, the wire colors are WHITE and GREEN for high and low beams. You can trace them back from the lights to the firewall, they run into the firewall on the drivers side:



You can see that the white wires coming off of the relays are connected to the green and white wires going into the firewall.
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-1996 Jeep Grand Cherokar 5.2L, donor and rainy day driver
-2004 Kawasaki KLR650 sunny day driver
[QUOTE=mudsweatNgearz;21162729]Leave em off and weld an I beam on. Bumperetts just scream homo.[/QUOTE]
"A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the [B][I]RIGHT[/I][/B] of the people to keep and bear Arms, [B][I]SHALL NOT BE INFRINGED[/I][/B]."
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Unread 09-18-2012, 08:01 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by shu2kill View Post
thanx!! i assumed that would be the easier way, just wanted to make sure....

now, where are the wires located near the firewall?? i think i could cut them at the lights and then trace them back to the firewall, but arent they inside one of those big black looms?? where would be the easier place to have access to them??

one idea would be to cut them at the lights, and then, add an extension directly from there to the relay, but it would be a lot of extra wire, having to go back to the firewall again...
There was this same question asked earlier in the thread. I explained that I snipped the wires just behind the headlight. I just mounted the relays on the wheel well and used the driver side headlight leads to switch the relays, no need to trace the wires anywhere. If I remember right green is low beam, white high beam and you will not use the black ground anymore. You want your relays as close to the lights as possible.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 07:02 AM   #144
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Head light relay

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmybob67 View Post
After looking at my wiring (94YJ) It seems adequate for the amperage draw of a 55 watt bulb. Is this mod for an earlier model?
This is so you can run 110/85 watt H4 bulbs. I was burning up my headlight sockets and head light switch. It really works.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 07:22 AM   #145
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Originally Posted by Orlie View Post
Will these work even though they are 5 pin relays. I'm going to use them for the relay headlight upgrade.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-pcs-40-AM...item3f1ad2f67b

Orlie
I was going to use the Bosch relays but was told the terminal pins are metric and I did not want to redo all my ends.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:39 AM   #146
shu2kill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudsweatNgearz View Post
There was this same question asked earlier in the thread. I explained that I snipped the wires just behind the headlight. I just mounted the relays on the wheel well and used the driver side headlight leads to switch the relays, no need to trace the wires anywhere. If I remember right green is low beam, white high beam and you will not use the black ground anymore. You want your relays as close to the lights as possible.
ok thank you!! i was thinking about mounting the relays on the firewall on the passengers side, where i already have 3 or 4 relays installed for the aux lights... but you are right, no need to trace them back and then front again... i think i will do this mod this weekend, thanx!!
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Unread 09-19-2012, 10:31 AM   #147
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im gonna do this mod i think eventhough my brights dont work, i dont believe the swich works on the blinker lever
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1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
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my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 09-19-2012, 06:47 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
im gonna do this mod i think eventhough my brights dont work, i dont believe the swich works on the blinker lever
Without too much fiddling, you could get high beams working if you wire in a toggle switch in the cab dedicated to the high beams with the relays (assuming you'd rather do that then swap the blinker lever lol).
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Unread 09-19-2012, 09:35 PM   #149
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My Brother drives a 95 Ford Taurus and he told me that he keeps popping his driver side head light bulb. I've always thought that his lights were dim so I went to E-Bay and ordered that 5 pack of relays and some 9007 pig tails. I'm really looking forward to giving this a shot!
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:09 AM   #150
Ripper3494
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Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
Without too much fiddling, you could get high beams working if you wire in a toggle switch in the cab dedicated to the high beams with the relays (assuming you'd rather do that then swap the blinker lever lol).
Yea, I did the relay mod last night and it made a huge difference. I thought about a toggle switch for the brights but my wipers just stopped working on high so I guess ill be pulling it apart anyway
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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