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Unread 10-21-2011, 08:28 AM   #1
DerGeist
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Have been up all night (yes...) with an oilpan gasket. Help?

I'm way past tired now, so please forgive me if I miss an important detail.

Short version:

'88 YJ, did an engine swap to an '86 (both 258 type) and MSD ignition/Team Rush, had her running/driving, noted a bit of leakage, and thought I'd better be a good little boy and fix the oilpan gasket. It was leaking a little at the gasket in a few places, so it made sense to just knock it out. I bought the 1 piece rubber FelPro gasket, and have--seriously--been up all night dinking with it.

The issue is either a slightly out of spec gasket, or I'm an idiot...lol I just can't seem to get the rear portion of the gasket to stay centered over the rear main seal cap. Is there some trick to this? I've tried every way I can think of, minus super glue.

The gasket does sit in the pan seemingly normally...It's only upon planting it against the engine that it tries to squish out the back/behind the rms cap area (especially once bolts are even in the pan holes/through gasket--I couldn't begin to get it to sit centered in the area of the pan I thought it was supposed to go long enough to actually start the bolts at that end). Again, sorry if I'm leaving out something or just not making much sense at this point. Hopefully that all reads clearly enough...lol

I'm about to pass out for a few hours, then go get another gasket and try again this afternoon. I would, sincerely, appreciate any help on this.

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Unread 10-21-2011, 09:39 AM   #2
Hard_oNe
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I hope you report back the issue. This is my next task for my project jeep.

I don't plan to spend that amount of time on an oil pan.
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Unread 10-21-2011, 10:18 AM   #3
TheNewbie
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You could always buy a can of black permatex. It comes in a can like spray cheese. Then just clean up the mating surfaces on the oil pan and the block, lay a bead large enough to create a gasket along the top of the oil pan and bolt her up.

You don't even have to wait for it to dry before filling with oil and driving it.

I have nothing but Permatex sealing my water pump, thermostat housing and valve cover and have never had a leak due to the permatex. IMO it's better than any gasket and I wold not hesitate to use it in place of an oil pan gasket.
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1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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Unread 10-21-2011, 10:44 AM   #4
Hard_oNe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNewbie
You could always buy a can of black permatex. It comes in a can like spray cheese. Then just clean up the mating surfaces on the oil pan and the block, lay a bead large enough to create a gasket along the top of the oil pan and bolt her up.

You don't even have to wait for it to dry before filling with oil and driving it.

I have nothing but Permatex sealing my water pump, thermostat housing and valve cover and have never had a leak due to the permatex. IMO it's better than any gasket and I wold not hesitate to use it in place of an oil pan gasket.
Do you use the same torque as ig you use a gasket or use the german standard?
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Unread 10-21-2011, 11:27 AM   #5
TheNewbie
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Ah yes, he old German "guten tight" method...

I wouldn't over torque it on the oil pan if using Permatex instead of a gasket. It would just squish most of it out. I'm sure it would still seal just fine, but I like to have a little bit in between there. It acts like a glue and will stick to both sides pretty well, so you could probably even under torque it as long as you used some thread lock. But I wold personally just go with the standard torque.
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1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

My build thread...
I've got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive...
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Unread 10-21-2011, 12:23 PM   #6
ejeeperguy
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The four larger bolts go on first.Makes it easier to put the others on .The rtv you put in the corners of of the front and rear use just a little to hold it in place.don't go crazy with it,and let it dry.That will work to get the small bolts in and torqued down.
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Unread 10-21-2011, 04:25 PM   #7
DerGeist
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Thanks, Y'all! I'll certainly report back what ends up working for me. When trying the gasket, the only Permatex I used last night was at the corners, where the instructions suggested (and not a crazy amount of it).

I thought of using only rtv...I also thought of using the gasket, except to cut out that rear section with which I'm having issues, and using rtv to fill the gap that would create (any known/suspected issues doing that?). I was even frustrated enough at one point to like the idea of welding it on, but knew that'd be bad...lol I don't know yet which one(s) I'll try, but again will report back on what works.

If anyone else has advice, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
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Unread 10-21-2011, 04:47 PM   #8
TheNewbie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerGeist View Post
Thanks, Y'all! I'll certainly report back what ends up working for me. When trying the gasket, the only Permatex I used last night was at the corners, where the instructions suggested (and not a crazy amount of it).

I thought of using only rtv...I also thought of using the gasket, except to cut out that rear section with which I'm having issues, and using rtv to fill the gap that would create (any known/suspected issues doing that?). I was even frustrated enough at one point to like the idea of welding it on, but knew that'd be bad...lol I don't know yet which one(s) I'll try, but again will report back on what works.

If anyone else has advice, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
If you can't get the gasket to work you'd be fine with only RTV too as long as you could get a good enough bead of it. But the Permatex would probably last longer and you can spray out a good sized bead so you're sure that it will have enough coverage. One air bubble from trying to lay down the RTV could cause a leak.
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1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

My build thread...
I've got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive...
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Unread 10-22-2011, 11:28 PM   #9
DerGeist
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Remember how I'd originally mentioned either the gasket might be out of spec or I'm just an idiot? Uhh...Yeah...

The reason the other gasket didn't fit right at the rms area is that I (unknowingly) had left the rubber strip from an older 4 piece gasket set tucked into the place the rear of the new gasket is supposed to go. It (the older bit) fit so neatly back there, I simply didn't register that it wasn't supposed to be there...lol Once I removed that, the new one piece gasket fit just fine. Wonder of wonders...:-/

I'm giving the Permatex at the corners until tomorrow evening to set up, before putting oil in and starting her up to check for leaks--I'll report back again once that's done--but it seems good to go for now. I do, sincerely, appreciate the help. In this case, it seems it was nothing a good slap to the forehead wouldn't have cured.
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Unread 10-23-2011, 04:35 AM   #10
kelti819
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dont feel bad, same thing happened to me, i was just fortunate enough that once my dad crawled under there he noticed it right away.
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Unread 10-23-2011, 02:44 PM   #11
TheNewbie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerGeist View Post
I'm giving the Permatex at the corners until tomorrow evening to set up,
That's funny. We've all had those moments.

Also, you don't need to wait at all for the Permatex to set up. You can fill and drive it right away. That's another bonus to using Permatex instead of RTV.
__________________
1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

My build thread...
I've got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive...
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