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Unread 06-05-2013, 06:49 PM   #1
ellisfl09
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Hard starting

I have a 1995 yj with a 2.5 under the hood I recently purchased. It has 90k on it with a ax5 and is completely bone stock. It runs great and idles great after starting. When I go to start it for the first time of the day it takes around 10 or so cranks to start. I originally thought that it was fuel related and I changed the fuel pump and regulator after replacing I still have the problem. The plugs and wires were recently replaced by the previous owner and appear to be in good order. I am unsure where else to look.

Possible fuel filter. I will try as it is cheap insurgence

Possible cps. I would think it would not idle correctly if it was this

Cat converter was replaced by previous owner as well

Thank you for any input as I am unsure as to where else to look

Excited to finally be a jeep owner. And thanks again

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Unread 06-05-2013, 07:23 PM   #2
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisfl09 View Post
I have a 1995 yj with a 2.5 under the hood I recently purchased. It has 90k on it with a ax5 and is completely bone stock. It runs great and idles great after starting. When I go to start it for the first time of the day it takes around 10 or so cranks to start. I originally thought that it was fuel related and I changed the fuel pump and regulator after replacing I still have the problem. The plugs and wires were recently replaced by the previous owner and appear to be in good order. I am unsure where else to look.

Possible fuel filter. I will try as it is cheap insurgence

Possible cps. I would think it would not idle correctly if it was this

Cat converter was replaced by previous owner as well

Thank you for any input as I am unsure as to where else to look

Excited to finally be a jeep owner. And thanks again
When you turn the ignition to the ON (not start) position does your CEL come on for several seconds? I not then wait until it does then start your YJ up.
When your CEL does not light up momentarily as soon as you turn your ignition to the ON position it tells you that the ECM has failing capacitors which can be replaced if you are a bit handy with a soldering iron.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 04:20 AM   #3
ellisfl09
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Hard start

Just tried the start and the cel lithe does come on immediately so I don't think that is the problem

Thanks for all of the help
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Unread 06-06-2013, 06:11 AM   #4
OKwranglerYJ
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You might have a whole in your fuel line and losing prime. First thing in the morning try turning the key on and off a few time to prime the fuel system.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 06:58 AM   #5
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisfl09 View Post
Just tried the start and the cel lithe does come on immediately so I don't think that is the problem

Thanks for all of the help
That is one thing out of the way. When you start your YJ up do you touch the gas pedal at all? If you do you might be partially flooding it.

Before your next cold start, pull the air filter out of the air filter box then fire it up. See if that makes a difference.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 07:17 AM   #6
OKwranglerYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post

That is one thing out of the way. When you start your YJ up do you touch the gas pedal at all? If you do you might be partially flooding it.

Before your next cold start, pull the air filter out of the air filter box then fire it up. See if that makes a difference.
I don't think you can flood our mpi engines.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 07:37 AM   #7
laybackman
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Originally Posted by OKwranglerYJ View Post
I don't think you can flood our mpi engines.
You can flood them trust me! What happens if your spark plugs lose their gap because they have been scoured on the contact undersurface and now the gap is too wide and they are all crudded up?

In fact, to the OP, that is another possibility I just thought of!

Then add to that situation old injectors not spraying the fuel in a fine mist but squirting the fuel out instead will flood this engine.


The 'fix' believe it or not, is to press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank the engine over. Pushing the gas pedal to the floor tells the ECM to shut down the fuel being introduced to the injector rail.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 08:25 AM   #8
Que89YJ
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X100 with Laybackman. I wish I had a newer YJ to do a youtube video on doing the fuel pressure test!
Pushing the pedal to the floor on a MPFI will cut the injector fuel supply to clear a flooded engine.
You need to do 3 things:

Check your fault codes:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...codes-1257145/

Tune it up: this includes plugs, wires, rotor, fuel filter, pvc, and clean the throttlebody and IAC:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/q...-body-1262267/

Run a fuel pressure test. You can borrow the pressure guage from any major parts store tool loan program. It hooks up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail:
Engine idle: 31 psi
Check the pressure at idle: 31
Disconnect the vacuum line at the fuel regulator on the rail: 39 psi
Then the important one for you that checks the issue of a bad injector
Bleed down: Greater then 20 psi after 20 minutes
The bleed down will tell you if you are not maintaining start pressure when you turn the key because of a bad injector, regulator, or check valve in the fuel pump.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 08:35 AM   #9
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
X100 with Laybackman. I wish I had a newer YJ to do a youtube video on doing the fuel pressure test!
Pushing the pedal to the floor on a MPFI will cut the injector fuel supply to clear a flooded engine.
You need to do 3 things:

Check your fault codes:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...codes-1257145/

Tune it up: this includes plugs, wires, rotor, fuel filter, pvc, and clean the throttlebody and IAC:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/q...-body-1262267/

Run a fuel pressure test. You can borrow the pressure guage from any major parts store tool loan program. It hooks up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail:
Engine idle: 31 psi
Check the pressure at idle: 31
Disconnect the vacuum line at the fuel regulator on the rail: 39 psi
Then the important one for you that checks the issue of a bad injector
Bleed down: Greater then 20 psi after 20 minutes
The bleed down will tell you if you are not maintaining start pressure when you turn the key because of a bad injector, regulator, or check valve in the fuel pump.
Youll have a newer one soon. You have th rail there you can hook a gauge too. It just would not show pressure being unhooked and all. Ill see if I cant make a quick video of it this weekend. Was there something specific you wanted it to show or just hooking up the gauge and reading it with the vac line on and disconnected?

I have a bad check valve in my fuel pump so it takes a little extra time for me to start it each time. I figure it will get replaced by default when the fuel pump goes. Until then I will just spend the extra few seconds starting it.
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[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 06-06-2013, 08:38 AM   #10
Que89YJ
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LOL that is perfect. Give me a shout and we can talk about it. We have had a least a dozen different threads in the last month with fuel pressure issues. It would be nice to be able to post a video and just say do it like this. Thanks.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 08:46 AM   #11
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
LOL that is perfect. Give me a shout and we can talk about it. We have had a least a dozen different threads in the last month with fuel pressure issues. It would be nice to be able to post a video and just say do it like this. Thanks.
Ill call you after work today. Ill see if I cant make one Saturday afternoon. Itll give me a reason to play with my new ipad.
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 06-06-2013, 09:39 AM   #12
ellisfl09
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Hard start

Thank you for all of the info. As far as the starting goes I have never held the gas pedal at all while starting due to the fact it was fuel injected. I will try starting with the pedal partially depressed after work and report back.

As far as the fuel pressure test goes. I will have to wait and try that this weekend or next week due to work.

As far as the distributor/rotor goes I assume that they are original parts and I would not think this to be the issue as the motor runs great after firing up. If the timing was off I would think I would have missing in her. Same explanation for a CPS but is that correct?

Thank again for all of the help
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Unread 06-06-2013, 09:53 AM   #13
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisfl09 View Post
Thank you for all of the info. As far as the starting goes I have never held the gas pedal at all while starting due to the fact it was fuel injected. I will try starting with the pedal partially depressed after work and report back.

As far as the fuel pressure test goes. I will have to wait and try that this weekend or next week due to work.

As far as the distributor/rotor goes I assume that they are original parts and I would not think this to be the issue as the motor runs great after firing up. If the timing was off I would think I would have missing in her. Same explanation for a CPS but is that correct?

Thank again for all of the help
The cps should not deter starting but a worn rotor/distributer cap might be part of the problem. They are 'tune up' items which should be changed occasionally.

If yours is OEM it is way overdue to change both the cap and the rotor!
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"Once good behavior becomes the exception and not the rule your society has begun to fail…..we are there." laybackman

If your girl is throwing gang signs with her toes you're hitting the spot.

"If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making them."
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Unread 06-06-2013, 12:58 PM   #14
Que89YJ
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all the ignition components can cause a weak spark and make a cold engine more difficult to start. it had better not be original! fuel filter, rotor cap wires and plugs are all wear components and have definite life cycles. the should be changed out no more then 60000. some plugs might be a little longer but the effect on your system is big. under resistances increase and will cause stuff like the coil to fail eventually. clean the iac and throttle body. its probably a fuel issue as was said but normal maintenance will help too.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 02:10 PM   #15
ellisfl09
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Hard start

Ok so I tried starting the jeep with the pedal to the floor. It responded by not even turning over I.E. I believe that I flooded it by doing so I let off of the gas pedal and started it the usual way I was before(no foot on pedal) and I got the usual around 10 or so cranks to start

As far as the rotor it is evident that the plugs were changed as well as the previous owner told me they were, did not mention that the rotor in the distributor was. From appearances it looks as though it was changed( I may pull the cap next week and try and take a closer look).

Overall by records it appears as all ov the usual maintenance was done on time and correctly.

As far as fuel leaks go I have not noticed any in the lines and when I replaced the pump or under the vehicle. I realize that there may be corrosion in the metal lines, but on the outside the lines appear to be in great shape.

I will try to remove the air filter and clean the airflow sensor this weekend as well.

Hopefully something here will correct it as I am unsure where else to look.

Thanks to everyone for all of the help and ideas
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