Got sponsored by Superlift, going bigger with D30/8.8 axles, 33s or 35s? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 21 Old 04-20-2013, 10:52 AM
4.7stroker
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I found with 4 1/2 total lift that on full stuff my 33's rubbed inside my front fenders, I did a high fender to overcome this.
I think you may find 35's a little snug with your setup.

Dwayne

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post #17 of 21 Old 04-20-2013, 02:20 PM
TrentYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLWRUBI View Post
For the gear ratio difference:

As long as the front and rear ratios are within 1% the vehicle works just fine on the road, and can even be as different as 2% and work just fine off-road with no side effects.

1 point difference in ratio is equal to 1%. To find the percentage difference in ratios it is necessary to divide, not subtract. In order to find the difference divide one ratio by the other and look at the numbers to the right of the decimal point and how far they make the answer different from 1.00. for example 3.54 ÷ 3.50 = 1.01 or 1%, not 4% different. And likewise 4.11 ÷ 4.09 = 1.005 or only a 1/2% difference. These differences are about the same as a 1/3" variation in front to rear tire height which probably happens more often than we realize.

Source: http://www.wagoneers.com/JEEPS/tech/GEARING/myths.html
^This. It wouldn't be the greatest idea to drive on the street but you'll be fine offroad. Correct me if I'm wrong but i believe that the dana 30 is a 4.11 and the 35 is a 4.10 stock from the factory.

Anyways for the tires, 35's are gunna rub pretty good with 4" of lift. Tube fenders will help but your still gunnna have to trim the rears or that sheetmetal will start to cut into your tread.

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post #18 of 21 Old 04-20-2013, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrentYJ

^This. It wouldn't be the greatest idea to drive on the street but you'll be fine offroad. Correct me if I'm wrong but i believe that the dana 30 is a 4.11 and the 35 is a 4.10 stock from the factory.

Anyways for the tires, 35's are gunna rub pretty good with 4" of lift. Tube fenders will help but your still gunnna have to trim the rears or that sheetmetal will start to cut into your tread.
I fit 35s with 3" of lift up front with very very minor trimming, but the back will need some work but that ain't no thang!

Sheet metal bends way before it starts to cut into tires at least for me. I let my tires self clearance to see what needed cut out and not a scratch on my tires.

Gears. You can run .5 difference, do you could go 3.50 front and 3.55 rear and still be ok even on pavement and in 4wd.

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post #19 of 21 Old 04-21-2013, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.7stroker View Post
I found with 4 1/2 total lift that on full stuff my 33's rubbed inside my front fenders, I did a high fender to overcome this.
I think you may find 35's a little snug with your setup.

Dwayne
That's what I was thinking as well. I have 2" with full stuff on 31s it's maxed out. I run no track bars and sway bar discos. For 35s I figured one needs 6" with TJ fenders or tube fenders plus trim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DLWRUBI View Post
For the gear ratio difference:

As long as the front and rear ratios are within 1% the vehicle works just fine on the road, and can even be as different as 2% and work just fine off-road with no side effects.

1 point difference in ratio is equal to 1%. To find the percentage difference in ratios it is necessary to divide, not subtract. In order to find the difference divide one ratio by the other and look at the numbers to the right of the decimal point and how far they make the answer different from 1.00. for example 3.54 ÷ 3.50 = 1.01 or 1%, not 4% different. And likewise 4.11 ÷ 4.09 = 1.005 or only a 1/2% difference. These differences are about the same as a 1/3" variation in front to rear tire height which probably happens more often than we realize.

Source: http://www.wagoneers.com/JEEPS/tech/GEARING/myths.html
Awesome, great to know. Thx for taking time to write this up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrentYJ View Post
^This. It wouldn't be the greatest idea to drive on the street but you'll be fine offroad. Correct me if I'm wrong but i believe that the dana 30 is a 4.11 and the 35 is a 4.10 stock from the factory.

Anyways for the tires, 35's are gunna rub pretty good with 4" of lift. Tube fenders will help but your still gunnna have to trim the rears or that sheetmetal will start to cut into your tread.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CDW_327 View Post
I fit 35s with 3" of lift up front with very very minor trimming, but the back will need some work but that ain't no thang!

Sheet metal bends way before it starts to cut into tires at least for me. I let my tires self clearance to see what needed cut out and not a scratch on my tires.

Gears. You can run .5 difference, do you could go 3.50 front and 3.55 rear and still be ok even on pavement and in 4wd.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum

I'm just going to throw the lift and tube fenders on, drive down to a tire shop and try on both 33 and 35, go from there. I did make a mistake getting YJ smitty rear tubes. Should have gone for TJ ones.

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post #20 of 21 Old 04-21-2013, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Junk yard wanted $600 for D30 w/4.11s and 8.8 w/4.10s... search continues

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post #21 of 21 Old 04-21-2013, 09:34 PM
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You will definitely need TJ rears to clear 35's. Front you can do tube fenders. You don't need 6" lift for 35's. I'll be doing it with 4.5" of lift SUA, some have done it with less lift. It's all about the fenders and trimming.
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