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Going to look at an '87...
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09-19-2006, 06:32 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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Going to look at an '87...
Hey guys! I replied to a local ad that was described like this:
"1987 Jeep Wrangler Laredo: 5-speed,6 cyl. 147,000 miles Hardtop&hard doors,a/c,tilt runs good,looks good. Asking $1500"
When I e-mailed him he replied:
"I have had the Jeep for 2 years now.I just don't need the Jeep right
now(bought a new Truck).It doesn't have any rust.Not sure on the
gears.It is black.The only thing it needs is the ignition rack in the
steering column replaced(I have all the replacement parts to fix).The
tires are like brand new(has 31x10.5x15 tires).It does burn a little
oil,and also leaks a little too.Windows are in great shape,it would pass
inspection.Everything has been serviced within the last year.It has a
new water pump,radiator,hoses,tune-up,starter,ring gear on the
flywheel."
So I was wondering what you fellas thought. How hard is it to replace the ignition rack? I'm assuming the oil leak is the pan, how hard is that to replace? He says that it burns oil, anything I should do besides a compression test? I'm going to search these topics, but if anyone could help me out that would be great! Anything else I should look for? He's 30 min away and I won't be able to go look untill tomorrow evening.
Thanks,
Nick
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09-19-2006, 06:37 AM
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#2
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Eat, Sleep, Jeep
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Chesterfield VA
Posts: 2,106
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If it's in halfway decent shape 1500 is a steal.
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09-19-2006, 06:43 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 615
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I agree, sounds like a good deal just keep an eye out for the common hidden rust spots. Lift carpets if in place and look at floor pans in front and around lower roll bar mount behind seat. Check back near tailgate and don't forget to look at frame around spring and shock mounts. Good luck.
__________________
kevyj87 '87 I6 5spd, 215,000+ miles, Herced, Nuttered, Weber, HEI, RE 4", 1" BL, 4:11's, np231, 33x12.5's, SYE & shaft, 1" brown dog mm, home made bumpers front & rear, Ramsey 8,000lb winch
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09-19-2006, 08:34 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 376
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Assume the oil leak is the rear main seal. Good price if in decent shape.
__________________
Chuck
Sold : 93 YJ, 33s, 4.1, HO 4.0, AX15, d300 flipped
Building 90YJ. 37s, 5.38, 350, 4L60, np241, d44-ARB, D60-spool
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09-19-2006, 08:57 AM
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#5
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Jeep parking ONLY
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, NY
Posts: 1,490
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He cant say that the gears are ok?
I would be prepared to replace/rebuild the driveline...BA/10-5=Turd.
Burning oil? not good, that openes up a can.
Dont get hyped up based on price.
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09-19-2006, 09:49 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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Thanks for the replies so far guys! I'll check the mentiond areas for rust. If it is the rear main seal, is it easy enough to fix? If I get this, what manuals do you all suggest? This won't be a daily driver (have a 2005 Dodge Cummins), but it'll be something that I'll tinker with, and probably take off roading. I've been thinking about selling my 4-wheeler, so $4000 would make it pretty reliable? He says it has 31" tires, so I assume it has a 2" lift?
northjeep- shouldn't there be a tag on the diff pan?
What about the ignition rack? Is this going to be something that's a major pain? The guy says that he's asking $1500, so I hope to be able to talk him down if needed. Anything else that you guys think I should look at besides the usual? Do you think it would be woth getting a Carfax on it? Or only if it looks like it's been wrecked/throw together? Like I said in the first post, I'm going to look at it Wednesday night, so I've got till then (hopefully it doesn't sell by then).
Thanks again guys  ,
Nick
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09-19-2006, 10:04 AM
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#7
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Jeep parking ONLY
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, NY
Posts: 1,490
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I'd bet you good money it's got the "skinny puppy" 10/5 in it. That year and the next had them very consistantly. Rear axle is prolly a turd too (Dana 35).
Xfer case is prolly a 231-amc, very solid  .
You can tell if it's a ba/10-5 because it'll be the thinnest tranny you/ve ever seen in a truck...ever. Or you could compare this to what you see:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/trans/ba10.html
Tinker away...but you arent going to get'er done for $4000 incl purchase price says eye.
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09-19-2006, 10:15 AM
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#8
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Jeep parking ONLY
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, NY
Posts: 1,490
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Also, another definitive way to tell it's a poopie Peugeot is that they are bolted together LENGHTWISE like a clamshell. I dunno who ever thought THAT was a good idea....lots of flex in that sort of configuration. Now im rambling...sorry I really hate that trans.
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09-19-2006, 10:46 AM
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#9
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Ridin' with the King
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NEPA
Posts: 1,175
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If the body is in decent shape you can replace the drive train for a rusted out donor if need be. A set of good 31s will cost a third of his asking price.
With the ignition smashed, I would take a careful look at the title to make sure the VIN matches, etc.
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'05 KJ CRD and '00 XJ Classic > Stock DDs
Wanted - Early CJ - running but restorable
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09-19-2006, 11:21 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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northjeep,
So if it has the peugeot, what should I replace it with? What's a good price for a tranny? The 4k is some money that I could directly put into it, the purchase price comes out of pocket. I've got some tinkering cash too.
Bgeddes,
I'll get the lowdown on the ignition. Might even run a Carfax.
Keep it coming guys!
Thanks,
Nick
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09-19-2006, 12:20 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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This is the latest e-mail...
"It doesn't affect the starting,but the steering wheel is off of it.If it
was me,I would haul it on a trailer.
I will let you know if it sells or not before tomorrow.There are a
couple of people looking at it tonight."
So couldn't the steering wheel be put back on it and be driven? I'd hate to buy something that I can't test drive first. What do you guys think?
Thanks,
Nick
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09-19-2006, 12:27 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: De Pere, WI
Posts: 47
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If the Frame is good and everything that you said about the body, the Jeep will be sold by the time you get there tomorrow.
Jeeps are relatively easy to work on and parts are pretty cheap.
If you have $4000 to stick into it it will be an Awesome ride. Maybe not bullet proof but who has $10,000 to stick into anything??
Basically what I'm saying is. Just do it!! Hesitation just makes you regret things later.
It runs, It has four wheel drive, Bodie is in good shape and it's a convertible........You can't go wrong.
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09-19-2006, 01:47 PM
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#13
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Jeep parking ONLY
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, NY
Posts: 1,490
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AX-15 new or used seems ok.
I am swapping in a NV3550 into my Heep (out and down with the BA!)
BUILD THREAD>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/build-thread-peugeot-ba10-5-nv3550-316455-post2637229/
It matters not what tranny you put in there and where you get it, you're still looking at two large minimum (all in) right there.
If you can't go for more than say 5500 + purchase price, you may not be happy.
Again...dependable offroad is the goal?
Item 1 Tranny $2000
Item 2 Rear gear $1500 (+- 500)
Item 3 Engine burning oil (nevermind the seals) $500-1500
Item 4 Cash Buffer 1000 (special tools/parts/labor)
All up you're looking at an optimistic low of $5000, and on optimistic high of $6500 + purchase.
I don't want to sound like screwge here...but thats the fax jax.
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09-19-2006, 02:02 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10
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Thanks for the comments northjeep! I'm not sure what my goal is with this Jeep. I'll use it to run to town, go deer hunting, and have it as a general beeter. I'm just curious about the price of parts for these YJs. If I get this, I'd like for it to look good and be capable off road, but untill I sock big $$ into it, I'm not expecting too much out of it. I would want to address the burning oil first, and then go from there. Keep them comming guys! I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
Nick
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09-19-2006, 02:26 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 564
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2 grand for a transmission swap?!?!! Question. Why bother? I'm still running the Peugot "crap" in my 87YJ, and it's got 220K on the clock!
If you can get the carb to play nice on the 4.2, and you're not going bigger than 31"s, why re-gear? I'm running the MC2150 on mine, with 31"s, and I get 17mpg.
The only possible "issue" is the oil burning.. He didn't say how much... If it's just a little bit, leave it alone, and drive it! Even if it is on it's last legs, a used engine shouldn't run more than 500 bucks, plus misc. parts(water pump, etc)...
1500 for a running YJ is a hell of a deal, pick that puppy up!!!
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