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Unread 02-05-2013, 07:06 PM   #1
CBinDC
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General OME leaf spring question

So I'm looking to install an OME lift but I have a quick question about the springs. I see a lot of people installing 36R (medium rear) leafs on the front and back. They generally go for about $98.99. Many 4x4 sites sell the 14F spring for about $73.99. This spring is designated as the front HD spring. Why would I want to get the 36R ($25 more) over the spring that is designated as a front spring? Wouldn't I want a heavier front spring , rather than the medium rear spring, to compensate for the weight of the engine? Did I mention they are $25 cheaper?

Thanks for your help.

C

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Unread 02-05-2013, 07:36 PM   #2
Chrisnvegas
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I have the 14F springs on the front. Pulled the tracbar and sway bar and they are perfect. Also have the 36R on the rear and got too much lift and they were too stiff for what I use my Jeep for. It was higher in the rear than the front and looked stupid. I pulled the smallest spring at the bottom of the spring pack and it dropped the rear level with the front. It now rides superb and eats bumps for lunch. Added a set of Bilsteins and couldn't be happier. No driveline vibration, and can take a nasty baja desert trail at interstate speeds comfortably.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 07:46 PM   #3
gunshw301
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I am one of the few that has 14s at all four corners. It sits a little low in the rear but that might be due to my 8.8 rear axle. I like it, but they don't come with the shims for the rear like the rear springs do. There is nothing wrong with the 14f in front, but if you plan on getting a winch and heavy front bumper (ie lots of weight, then go with a set of 36s for the front. They have an extra leaf and are a little stiffer but many folks love that set up. Also, to make a 14f similar to a 36 is going to cost something like 100 bucks, so the 50 now does not seem so bad if you decide to add a leaf later.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:07 PM   #4
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas
I have the 14F springs on the front. Pulled the tracbar and sway bar and they are perfect. Also have the 36R on the rear and got too much lift and they were too stiff for what I use my Jeep for. It was higher in the rear than the front and looked stupid. I pulled the smallest spring at the bottom of the spring pack and it dropped the rear level with the front. It now rides superb and eats bumps for lunch. Added a set of Bilsteins and couldn't be happier. No driveline vibration, and can take a nasty baja desert trail at interstate speeds comfortably.
Wow! That's exactly what I want to hear! I'm interested in adding Bilsteins too. Are you using the 5100 or 5150 model? How did you take off the lower spring of the 36R? Would removing the leaf effectively turn the 36R into the 37R (light load rear spring)?
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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:07 PM   #5
NonRubicon
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The Heavy Duty designation is a bit misleading - ARB only makes one OME spring for the front axle and that is the 14F. You'll get more lift if you have a 4cyl under the hood, and maybe about 1/4 to 1/2 " less lift with the 6cyl and/or heavy front accessories. Results in a factory-like rake if you have more weight in the front. 36R springs on all four corners gives you an even lift. The 14F is 4-leaf, while 36R is 5-leaf, like stock springs.

With the 36R springs, I can stand on the bumper and barely compress the suspension with my 160lbs of mass - no noticeable rake. Yet, with 36R springs on all fours, my YJ floats and rolls through dips in the street. I followed advice which suggested that if I were planning on adding heavy accessories to the front and rear, to go with the 36R as it would better withstand the additional weight.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:10 PM   #6
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NonRubicon
The Heavy Duty designation is a bit misleading - ARB only makes one OME spring for the front axle and that is the 14F. You'll get more lift if you have a 4cyl under the hood, and maybe about 1/4 to 1/2 " less lift with the 6cyl and/or heavy front accessories. Results in a factory-like rake if you have more weight in the front. 36R springs on all four corners gives you an even lift. The 14F is 4-leaf, while 36R is 5-leaf, like stock springs.

With the 36R springs, I can stand on the bumper and barely compress the suspension with my 160lbs of mass - no noticeable rake. Yet, with 36R springs on all fours, my YJ floats and rolls through dips in the street. I followed advice which suggested that if I were planning on adding heavy accessories to the front and rear, to go with the 36R as it would better withstand the additional weight.
What if I'm not planning on adding anything too heavy up front or going SOA?
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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:12 PM   #7
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunshw301
I am one of the few that has 14s at all four corners. It sits a little low in the rear but that might be due to my 8.8 rear axle. I like it, but they don't come with the shims for the rear like the rear springs do. There is nothing wrong with the 14f in front, but if you plan on getting a winch and heavy front bumper (ie lots of weight, then go with a set of 36s for the front. They have an extra leaf and are a little stiffer but many folks love that set up. Also, to make a 14f similar to a 36 is going to cost something like 100 bucks, so the 50 now does not seem so bad if you decide to add a leaf later.
If it rides a little low in the rear couldn't you add a pair of shackles to boost it up?
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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:28 PM   #8
Chrisnvegas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC View Post
Wow! That's exactly what I want to hear! I'm interested in adding Bilsteins too. Are you using the 5100 or 5150 model? How did you take off the lower spring of the 36R? Would removing the leaf effectively turn the 36R into the 37R (light load rear spring)?
I have the cheap 5100's. Would eventually like a set of 5150's or fox but the 5100's seem good. Not too stiff, not too loose. My lift had nothing to do with lift. I wanted wheel travel and the ability to go fast over bad terrain.
To remove the individual spring, I too the nuts off the U bolts, and dropped the axel a few inches. Then I removed the nut holding the spring pack together after putting a c clamp so the wouldn't "spring" apart!
I was experimenting and decided to remove the shortest spring on the bottom of the spring pack. Put it back together and took a ride. That was what I was looking for. I'm not sure what number they would be, but I figured if it ever starts to sag in the rear, I can always put the spring back in.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:53 PM   #9
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas

I have the cheap 5100's. Would eventually like a set of 5150's or fox but the 5100's seem good. Not too stiff, not too loose. My lift had nothing to do with lift. I wanted wheel travel and the ability to go fast over bad terrain.
To remove the individual spring, I too the nuts off the U bolts, and dropped the axel a few inches. Then I removed the nut holding the spring pack together after putting a c clamp so the wouldn't "spring" apart!
I was experimenting and decided to remove the shortest spring on the bottom of the spring pack. Put it back together and took a ride. That was what I was looking for. I'm not sure what number they would be, but I figured if it ever starts to sag in the rear, I can always put the spring back in.
Thanks for the tip! I think that's what I'm gonna do. Does the rear look parallel to the front - did you measure it? Yeah, wheel travel and going fast over bad terrain sounds great to me!
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Unread 02-05-2013, 08:59 PM   #10
NonRubicon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC View Post
What if I'm not planning on adding anything too heavy up front or going SOA?
The standard recommendation from ARB is to use the 14F in front, and for the rear use 36R for the hard top/heavy rear accessories, and use the 37R for soft top and no heavy rear accessories. If you go with the 14F in front, with the 4.2L under the hood I would expect a little bit of rake after the springs have settled.

I went with the 36R because I heard that the ride is not that much different than with the 14F up front, and I might add heavy accessories as funds allow. Once you start to mod, it's kinda hard to stop I have a soft top, 4.2L, no heavy bumpers or a winch and my YJ rides better even with the 36R's than it did with the worn out factory springs.

Ultimately it's just a matter of personal preference. You can always add-a-leaf in the future if you find the 14F springs don't provide enough lift. If you go with the 5-leaf setup from the start you don't need to be concerned with needing do the add-a-leaf if you decide to add heavy accessories. The ride is nice, even with a light Jeep.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 09:08 PM   #11
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NonRubicon
If you go with the 14F in front, with the 4.2L under the hood I would expect a little bit of rake after the springs have settled.
Does rake mean to dip down?
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Unread 02-05-2013, 09:31 PM   #12
gunshw301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC

If it rides a little low in the rear couldn't you add a pair of shackles to boost it up?
Bingo. I have 5/8 lift shackes (the amount of height lost with sua 8.8 swaps) front and rear right now. I plan to swap out the fronts back to stock height just have not done it yet.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 10:07 PM   #13
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunshw301

Bingo. I have 5/8 lift shackes (the amount of height lost with sua 8.8 swaps) front and rear right now. I plan to swap out the fronts back to stock height just have not done it yet.
How is your ride? Do you think I'd lose much in the way of height, with the stock rear axle, if I went this route?
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Unread 02-05-2013, 11:31 PM   #14
NonRubicon
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Originally Posted by CBinDC View Post
Does rake mean to dip down?
Rake in this situation means that the front will be a little lower than the rear. Or in other words, the rear will be higher than the front.
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Unread 02-06-2013, 07:22 AM   #15
gunshw301
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Your going to lose some. I don't run with rear passengers or a bench seat or bumper. I have a light spare tire holder and an air compressor tank, few tools and fluids and that's it. It's really smarter to just get the 36s for the rear. Two reasons. If you want a little more flex you can always remove a leaf, like I said before its going to cos more later if you decide to add a leaf. I have already considered adding a leaf. Also you will need to buy shims for the 14s in the rear unless you are also going to cut perches and reweld. The 50 cost savings just is not worth it in the end. If I where going to do it again, I would get a set of 36s.
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