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Unread 03-26-2012, 10:41 AM   #1
mcfalt
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Gear ratio change

OK, this is my first jeep. It's a '93 YJ with stock fuel injected V6. I just put a rubicon 4" lift kit on it with 33" mud tires and now, of course, fifth gear is useless. I'm told I need to change the gear ratio but I have no clue how to go about doing that and no idea of what it will cost. Any help would be appreciated.

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Unread 03-26-2012, 10:51 AM   #2
notmyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcfalt View Post
OK, this is my first jeep. It's a '93 YJ with stock fuel injected V6. I just put a rubicon 4" lift kit on it with 33" mud tires and now, of course, fifth gear is useless. I'm told I need to change the gear ratio but I have no clue how to go about doing that and no idea of what it will cost. Any help would be appreciated.
The engine is an inline 6, not a V-6

As for the gear ratio... you open up a can of worms... What is your intended use of this jeep? what kind of terrain, do you intend on going off road or do you just like the look of a big jeep on the street? If offroad, what kind of terrain? i.e. mud, un maintianed roads, light trails, or rocks?

The reason I ask is because a gear swap can get very expensive. The rear axle in your jeep is a Dana 35. Its notorious for being un reliable on 33's. If you plan to go offroad and need a lower gear (numerically higher) you would be better off doing an axle swap to an Ford 8.8 from an Explorer with 4.10's and swaping in a front axle from a 4cyl/5spd YJ to match.

However, if your just going to be mainly street driving, then swapping a set of axles from a 4cyl YJ would probably be your cheapest way out. But know that even on the street, the D35 has been known to break.

Personally, I would advise against any "upgrade" to the D35 rear axle. The 8.8 would be the wise long term investment. The 4cyl D35 swap would be the best "right now" fix.

Spend some time just hanging out here and reading everything you can. Learn from our mistakes and misfourtunes, it will save you thousands down the road.
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If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-26-2012, 10:56 AM   #3
mcfalt
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Thanks

Hey, thanks for the help. I do take it offroad on light trails and mud, nothing too crazy though. I guess a trip to the junk yard for the ford axle is in my near future.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 10:57 AM   #4
TrentYJ
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I definitely agree with notmyyj on this one. The model 35 is just a fairly weak rear end especially with big tires. I would get an 8.8 or a dana 44 before dropping over a grand on new gears. It's time to start diggin that money pit.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 02:14 PM   #5
mcfalt
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Found

Thanks...found a complete 97 explorer 8.8 with 4.10 ratio for $350 at the junk yard. looking for the front axle now.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 03:01 PM   #6
notmyj
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Do your research. The 8.8 swap is not a direct bolt in.
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If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-26-2012, 03:25 PM   #7
pete1991YJ
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If you want a front axle with 4.10 gears to match the ford 8.8. then look for a front axle from a 4-cylinder YJ. All the 4-cylinder 5-speed YJ's had 4.10's.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:17 PM   #8
Dumpsterfish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post
If you want a front axle with 4.10 gears to match the ford 8.8. then look for a front axle from a 4-cylinder YJ. All the 4-cylinder 5-speed YJ's had 4.10's.
This advice is relevant to my interests, as Iím preparing to swap the 8.8 under my YJ this weekend. Plenty of 4 cyl YJ parts around me, and Iím thinking that swapping a front end geared to 4.10 would save some dough over rebuilding the current oneÖbut is this a direct bolt up? Anything to watch out for in the junkyards?
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:35 PM   #9
notmyj
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Its a direct swap. Get new ubolts, and make sure the one from the junk yard isn't filled with water and isn't damaged.
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www.pghoffroad.com
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Carling Contura Switch Panel

If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:39 PM   #10
cstone94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dumpsterfish

This advice is relevant to my interests, as I’m preparing to swap the 8.8 under my YJ this weekend. Plenty of 4 cyl YJ parts around me, and I’m thinking that swapping a front end geared to 4.10 would save some dough over rebuilding the current one…but is this a direct bolt up? Anything to watch out for in the junkyards?
Make sure the teeth on the ring and pinion are good and you aren't buying a blown axle, they should allow you to crack it open, if you buy one you'll probably want to change the fluids and seals.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:42 PM   #11
Dumpsterfish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstone94 View Post
Make sure the teeth on the ring and pinion are good and you aren't buying a blown axle, they should allow you to crack it open, if you buy one you'll probably want to change the fluids and seals.
At the risk of showcasing my profound mechanical ignorance, how would one identify a "blown axle"? Is this more complicated than inspecting the diff and spinning the lugs to make sure everything turns the direction it's supposed to?
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:45 PM   #12
idskot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dumpsterfish View Post
At the risk of showcasing my profound mechanical ignorance, how would one identify a "blown axle"? Is this more complicated than inspecting the diff and spinning the lugs to make sure everything turns the direction it's supposed to?
Nope.
You got the concept. Pop open the differential cover and visually inspect the spider gears and the pinion teeth. Just make sure nothing is pitted too bad or chipped. Then spin the yoke and see if it spins the carrier. Also, spin the outside wheels / hubs.

But a good visual inspection should suffice.

If this is a stock axle, you shouldn't have to worry about much else.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:49 PM   #13
notmyj
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Spinning the passenger side hub will show you nothing as vac disconect will not be engaged. Spinning the driver side will turn the spiders and sides though. If you spin the pass side and nothing happens, don't worry. This is normal.
__________________
www.pghoffroad.com
My SOA Build
Recovery Gear Basics
My BUDGET York OBA Install
Budget Welding Cart
Carling Contura Switch Panel

If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:49 PM   #14
cstone94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dumpsterfish

At the risk of showcasing my profound mechanical ignorance, how would one identify a "blown axle"? Is this more complicated than inspecting the diff and spinning the lugs to make sure everything turns the direction it's supposed to?
Quote:
Originally Posted by idskot

Nope.
You got the concept. Pop open the differential cover and visually inspect the spider gears and the pinion teeth. Just make sure nothing is pitted too bad or chipped. Then spin the yoke and see if it spins the carrier. Also, spin the outside wheels / hubs.

But a good visual inspection should suffice.

If this is a stock axle, you shouldn't have to worry about much else.
Hit the nail on the head right there.
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95' YJ - Warn Bumpers/Tire Carrier/Winch - 2.5L - 6" Skyjacker Suspension Lift - 4.10's - Locrite Locker - Dana 35/30 - 35" BFGoodrich KM2's

11' F250 - DD

1982 Toyota Pick-Up - Spray-On Yellow Rhino Lined - Chevrolet 305 H.O. - SM465 - NP208C - All-Pro Off Road 5" Springs - 35x15.50x15 Super Swampers
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Unread 03-26-2012, 04:54 PM   #15
pete1991YJ
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Its a direct swap on the front axle - what the other guys are saying, is to just check it over careful and make sure you're not putting a broken one in. Nothing else to really worry about on the front axle, it goes right in.

The Ford 8.8 rear end involves some welding and brake line work along with a u-joint adapter if I remember right. New spring and shock mounts on the rear, etc. But on the other hand the Ford axle is *great* for 33's with 4.10 gears - its a classic good combination.
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