gasket sealant for thermostat housing gasket? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 09-09-2010, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
TheNewbie
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gasket sealant for thermostat housing gasket?

Do you use gasket sealant for the thermostat housing gasket? I replaced my thermostat last winter and the seal just started leaking again. I pulled it off and put a new gasket in but I smeared the RTV silicone a bit when I was trying to line the housing up with the head and it's leaking even worse now.

Can I just use the bare gasket, or is it required to use the RTV? IT seems like the silicone is what's making it leak because I can't get it perfectly even.


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post #2 of 16 Old 09-09-2010, 11:32 AM
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I have always used just a little bit of Blue RTV when I do mine, by little I mean a very very thin layer and that should not cause any leak because it kinda self levels when you bolt it back on. Maybe try black RTV.
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-09-2010, 11:46 AM
dtn8tr
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I had a similar issue and it turned out to be operator error. If you get the gasket turned around it will go together but it leaves half of the passageway to the upper left without a gasket around it. This causes it to leak like a sieve. I have the gasket with just a little RTV on it and hasn't leaked since and that is about 4 months now.

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post #4 of 16 Old 09-09-2010, 11:52 AM
Louie4
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I always use some gasket maker or RTV on gaskets just for assurance. I had the same problem with my thermostat housing. The last time I removed it I noticed how pitted the mating surface was on my housing so I took it to work and put a smooth finish on it. I bolted every thing back up with a new gasket and RTV and no problems since.

Oh I also cleaned the bolts good because they were very corroded on the threads.

Lou

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post #5 of 16 Old 09-09-2010, 11:56 AM
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Look at the housing make shure it is not worped from over tighting
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-09-2010, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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The instructions on the packet of RTV said to apply a bead all the way around. I'll try just smearing a thin coat instead.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #7 of 16 Old 09-09-2010, 12:24 PM
Chris
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I always do a thin coat just because I don't like a whole bunch to be pushed in and out of whatever I an putting on. You ever pop something off and there is more gasket maker on the inside then anywhere else, I try to avoid that.
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Well I got some of that black gasket maker in a can like spray cheese and put it back together with a gasket and that black gasket stuff. It was still leaking a little bit, so I pulled it off and put it back without a gasket. I just used a fairly thick layer of that gasket maker and bolted it back up.
I STILL have a leak. I sanded it by hand until it was shiney again, but I'm thinking it's got to be warped or something. Should I take it to my father in laws and use his belt sander to level it out, or maybe replace it? What else could cause this? The book says to tighten the bolts to 20 lbs. Thats seems really light, but I've tried that as well as tightening it more. Nothing seems to make a difference and I've been leaking at least a gallon of coolant a week.

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post #9 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 10:57 AM
remmons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNewbie View Post
Well I got some of that black gasket maker in a can like spray cheese and put it back together with a gasket and that black gasket stuff. It was still leaking a little bit, so I pulled it off and put it back without a gasket. I just used a fairly thick layer of that gasket maker and bolted it back up.
I STILL have a leak. I sanded it by hand until it was shiney again, but I'm thinking it's got to be warped or something. Should I take it to my father in laws and use his belt sander to level it out, or maybe replace it? What else could cause this? The book says to tighten the bolts to 20 lbs. Thats seems really light, but I've tried that as well as tightening it more. Nothing seems to make a difference and I've been leaking at least a gallon of coolant a week.
I see that you are not that far away from me. I have done a lot of wheeling down that way, 21 Road being my favorite.

I use the Permatex #2 non-hardening sealant. I have never had any issues by using this product.

My question to you is this. Are you sure that it is coming from the water outlet, and not through the end of the coolant hose? Sometimes, a leak can occure internally on a hose, but it won't penetrate the outer surface. Instead, it would "wick" out, or migrate through the threads out the end of the hose.

Another thing to look at is this. Check for a crack in the water outlet housing. By torquing down on this, it can cause it to warp and/or crack. They're not meant to be torqued down too tight. Check with your FSM for the torque settings. Sometimes, by overtorquing you create a situation where the gasket "cracks" due to overcompression, or the housing will flex.

If you happen to have it off again, check it for trueness on something flat, then bring out your feeler gauges and see if you have any that slip under. If you do, then it is warped.

Robert.

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post #10 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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I see that you are not that far away from me. I have done a lot of wheeling down that way, 21 Road being my favorite.
You'll ahve to let me know when you're coming through to go wheelin'. I like Billings canyon too if you jsut want to screw around for the day. There are a lot of playgrounds and waterfalls to toy with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by remmons View Post
My question to you is this. Are you sure that it is coming from the water outlet, and not through the end of the coolant hose? Sometimes, a leak can occure internally on a hose, but it won't penetrate the outer surface. Instead, it would "wick" out, or migrate through the threads out the end of the hose.
I'll check that out. The hoses probably need replacing anyway.

How much could that leak? Also, it seems to leak a different amount every time I re do the seal.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #11 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 11:23 AM
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I never use a gasket on any thermostat housing. BUT, I always mill the housing flat and make sure the mating surface on the head is also flat.

A thin bead of red hi-temp RTV. Have done many like this, and not the first leak yet.

Most folks warp the housing by improper installation of the gasket, they will never stop the leak once the housing is no longer true.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
I never use a gasket on any thermostat housing. BUT, I always mill the housing flat and make sure the mating surface on the head is also flat.

A thin bead of red hi-temp RTV. Have done many like this, and not the first leak yet.

Most folks warp the housing by improper installation of the gasket, they will never stop the leak once the housing is no longer true.
OK, so should I just put it on a belt sander and get it flat, or replace it just to be safe?

I have tomorrow off. I guess I know what I'll be doing.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4 RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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I've got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive...
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post #13 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNewbie View Post
Well I got some of that black gasket maker in a can like spray cheese and put it back together with a gasket and that black gasket stuff. It was still leaking a little bit, so I pulled it off and put it back without a gasket. I just used a fairly thick layer of that gasket maker and bolted it back up.
I STILL have a leak. I sanded it by hand until it was shiney again, but I'm thinking it's got to be warped or something. Should I take it to my father in laws and use his belt sander to level it out, or maybe replace it? What else could cause this? The book says to tighten the bolts to 20 lbs. Thats seems really light, but I've tried that as well as tightening it more. Nothing seems to make a difference and I've been leaking at least a gallon of coolant a week.
Is that 20in/lbs or 20ft/lbs?

1997 TJ, 5" IRO front with 4.5" HD IRO WJ rear, 35x12.5x15 Mickey Thompson MTZ, JKS disconnects
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post #14 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 12:18 PM
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OK, so should I just put it on a belt sander and get it flat, or replace it just to be safe?

I have tomorrow off. I guess I know what I'll be doing.
Doubtful a belt sander will give you enough control. A large sharp mill file is what has worked well for me. And check for true with a steel straight edge.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #15 of 16 Old 09-24-2010, 01:23 PM
superj
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you can put a square piece of sand paper on a table or bench and sand in figure 8s to make it square also.

I don't feel like working on anything at this time so i sold my yj.
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