I've been having this problem for years too, but finally fixed it a few months ago. I don't necessarily recommend this procedure, was not the easiest, but I like it.
I suspected the problem was in the tank, not the dash, and this got confirmed when I swapped the whole dash for a custom and used a new Autometer gauge. I also know that it's a pain to drop the tank all the time to slightly bend the float arm while trying to get the numbers right. So, I made a nicely done access panel in the floor of the rear bed of the tub. Over about 3-4 tanks of gas and minor adjustments to the float via the new access panel, I'm good. As a start, I used a potentiometer (variable resistor, from signal line at tank to ground) so I knew exactly what ohms were needed to get the gauge to read at the 5 main points (E/.25/.50/.75/F), then played with the float assembly on the bench to get those ohm readings close. The gauge now reads dead on 'E' when I have 3 gallons left, and takes 17+ to fill. It's not dead on linear at the mid points, but it's decent.
So, I can tell you that enough playing with bending the float can make it work.
Rocky, I can tell you, because mine kept doing the exact same thing, that the filter sock on the bottom of the sending unit has come off. I have a '90 and the fuel pump has been replaced 4 times now. This last time I pressed the metal tabs that hold the sock on for a tighter fit, and I also used a couple of zip ties to make sure it doesn't fall off again.
ya know now that i think about it mine didn't have a filter sock on it when i pulled it
jeep cuts out when i make a left turn only when my gauge reads close to a 1/4 tank... my gauge hasn't exactly works right it bounces ALOT... any suggestions ... i am dropping the tank tomorrow to check for ground issues and see if the float is messed up on sending unit....
thanks for any suggestions
by the way it is an 89 yj 2.5l
My '89 YJ 2.5 did the same thing.
Solder was broken around the pickup tube allowing fuel pump / sending unit, to swing around inside tank.