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Unread 10-30-2013, 12:25 PM   #76
flipit
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alright, so just to see what happened,
I pulled the ECU,
it's off, and sitting on the bench momentarily.
I held up the ECU connector...
and...
pins 1 and 19 are hot. 22 is not hot.

I believe I chased wire 1,
back to this

so i think 1 is supposed to be hot at all times from the mustang diagram here,
but It's not right that the green/yellow is hot.
I'm going to chase that one arouind a bit...

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Unread 10-30-2013, 01:05 PM   #77
Que89YJ
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You are getting close.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 01:19 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
You are getting close.
I'm not sure I want to get any closer...
It's getting crazy.
Here's the latest scoop...
I pulled the battery,
opened the pdc.
decided I'd try to chase the Blk/grn and see where it dead ends, and maybe i could link back up to stock or something right?
haha, I'll show you some pictures of what i found...
it's awful,
I'm taking a lunch break, doing some math homework,
then maybe going back to it
This part I'm definitely going to need some help with,
I just don't even know where to start.
It's nuts!

oh i forgot, that last picture up there with all the red cables,
yeah, the two hot wires that go into my pdc,
one goes to the starter, and the other to the asd
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Unread 10-30-2013, 03:24 PM   #79
laybackman
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the excess is zipped tied,
and the end is add-a-spliced here.



if you follow the stock green/yellow, it is pinned on one side via the connector,
and the other goes into pin 19 of the ECU...

QUOTE]

Whate is that green plug supposed to plug into? And, is that a relay hanging next to that green plug?
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Unread 10-30-2013, 03:49 PM   #80
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That is a relay socket. Look at the wire colors going into it and see what it goes to. It looks like the fuel pump relay.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 03:57 PM   #81
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Look at what I found;


http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=6
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Unread 10-30-2013, 04:10 PM   #82
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that link shows these color wires; That is different from the one I posted. Which color wires does your ECU have flipit??

Pin # Wire Color Connections for a 88-93 5.0L HO Mustang Value at Idle
01 YEL +12 Battery Voltage 12-14 volts
03 DG/WHT VSS + / Vehicle Speed Sensor Positive 55MPH = 125hz
04 DG/Y IDM / Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (TFI) 20-31hz
06 ORG/YEL VSS – / Vehicle Speed Sensor Negitive 55MPH = 125hz
07 LG/RED ECT / Engine Coolant Temp Sensor 0.5 volts = 200*F
09 TAN/BLU MAF RTN / Mass Air Flow Return < 0.1volts
12 BRN/YEL Fuel Injector 3 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
13 BRN/BLU Fuel Injector 4 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
14 TAN/ORG Fuel Injector 5 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
15 LG/ORG Fuel Injector 6 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
16 BLK/ORG Ignition Ground (TFI) -
17 TAN MIL / Engine Light & STO / Self-Test Output ON = GND
19 DG/YEL FPM / Fuel Pump Monitor Pump on = 12-14volts
20 BLK Ground < 0.1volts
21 WHT/BLU IAB / Idle Air Bypass 3.0 – 12.0 volts
22 BLU/ORG FPR / Fuel Pump Relay ON = GND
25 GRAY ACT / Air Charge Temp Sensor 3 volts = 70*F
26 ORG/WHT Voltage Reference 4.9-5.1 volts
29 DK GRN Right HEGO 0.0-1.0 volts
30 BLU/YEL Transmission Neutral Interface 0.0 volts in neutral
36 YEL/LGRN SPOUT / Spark Output Signal (TFI) -
37 RED EEC Relay +12 volts 12-14 volts
40 BLK Ground < 0.1 volt
42 TAN/RED Fuel Injector 7 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
43 DK BLU Left HEGO 0.0-1.0 volts
45 GRN/BLK BP / Barometric Pressure Sensor 159hz = sea level
46 GRY/RED Signal Return 0.1 volts
47 DK GRN TPS / Throttle Position Sensor 0.9 volts
48 TAN/RED STI / Self-Test Input GND = Self-Test
49 ORG Ground < 0.1 volt
50 BLU/RED MAF / Mass Air Flow Sensor 0.8 volts
52 LT BLU Fuel Injector 8 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
56 DK BLU PIP / Profile Ignition Pickup (TFI) -
57 RED EEC Relay +12 volts 12-14 volts
58 TAN/RED Fuel Injector 1 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
59 TAN/ORG Fuel Injector 2 4.9-5.2ms duty cycle
60 BLK Ground < 0.1volt
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Unread 10-30-2013, 05:52 PM   #83
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pin 3 is grey/black.

both of those are very similar, but you were right on the first one.

Right now I'm off to school, but tonight tomorrow I'll be trying to shoot some wires by the ignition and see what's sending the heat.
the green connecter has three green/yellow cables coming out, one goes to the ecu, one to fuel pump, and one goes into the wiring harness. that one is the hot line, so I'm going to try to find whatever it's connected to. but i also have to write an esay by 6pm tomorrow, so It's going to be a bit chopppy
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Unread 10-30-2013, 05:53 PM   #84
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the green plug doesn't plug, i believe it used to plug into the mustang dash- or a connector to route over there for that thing we were talking about before, so the OP removed it, cut the wire, and spliced it in himself.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 07:34 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
I found this. Pin #19?

What needs to be melded with the YJ wiring other than the fuel pump.

The ignition system for sure.

I think these are the pin outs for this ECU.

# 1 Yel -Hot at all times common with the PCM relay
# 3 Gry/Blk – To vehicle speed sensor
# 4 Tan/Yel – Ignition Control Module & Ignition coil
# 6 Pnk/Or – To vehicle speed sensor
# 7 Lt Grn/Rd - engine coolant temp sensor
# 9 Tan/Lt Blu – MAF sensor
#10 Blk/Yel – AC clutch signal
#11 Tan/Yel – To starting/charging system
#12 Brn/Yel - #3 injector
#13 Brn/Lt Blu - #4 injector
#14 Tan/Blk - #5 injector
#15 Lt Grn/Org - #6 injector
#16 Org/Rd – Ignition Control Module
#17 Pnk/Lt Grn – Data link connector
#19 Dk Grn/Yel – Fuel pump relay
#20 Blk - Ground
#21 Wht/Lt Blu – IAC solenoid
#22 Lt Blu/Org – Fuel pump relay/ data link connector
#25 Grn/Yel – Intake air sensor
#27 Brn/Lt Grn – EGR valve position sensor
#29 Gry/Lt Blu – Right heated O2 sensor
#30 Lt Blu/Yel to Lt Blu for Man tranny & Wht/Pnk for auto tranny
#31 Gry/Yel – Canister purge solenoid
#32 Wht/Lt Grn – AIR D (?) solenoid
#33 Brn/Pnk – EGR vac solenoid
#36 Pnk – Spout check connector – to the ICM
#37 Rd - Power to all injectors, the MAF, AIRD (?) and IAC solenoids
#38 Wht/Yel – AIRB (?) solenoid
#40 Blk/Wht - Common with #60 (ground)
#42 Tan/Rd – Injector #7
#43 Red/Blk – Left heated O2 sensor
#46 Gry/Rd – common with ECT, IAT, TPS, EGR, Barometric, sensor and the clutch pedal or NSS switch
#47 Gry/Wht - Throttle position sensor
#48 Wht/Pnk – Data link connector
#49 Org (ground)
#50 Lt Blu/Rd – MAF sensor
#52 Lt Blu - #8 injector
#54 Pnk/Yel – WOT AC cut off
#56 Gry/Org – Ignition Control Module
#58 Tan - #1 injector
#59 Wht - #2 injector
#60 Blk/Wht common with #40
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Unread 10-30-2013, 09:53 PM   #86
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[QUOTE=laybackman;17305082]What needs to be melded with the YJ wiring other than the fuel pump.

The ignition system for sure.

haha, the yj wiring is mostly melded,
that problem is cable 19 is recieving another hot.
I'm going to google tonight,
that green connector,
if we can find the pinout for that,
It might be our guide,
if not,
I'll keep chasing tomorrow,
I have a busy day though so maybe some friday-
we'll play all that by ear.

but it's kind of all converted between both vehicles wirings,
but so far i mean,
the OP did some jenky wiring jobs, but his track was good.
it sems as though the green yellow just shorted in one of my misadventures,
somewhere down the line.
so once we undo that short,
then it's clean up crew to go back and make all his wiring safe and proper.
and senseable of course.
and maybe, maybe get that fuel pump back on the relay
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Unread 10-31-2013, 06:15 AM   #87
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[quote=flipit;17309082]
Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
What needs to be melded with the YJ wiring other than the fuel pump.

The ignition system for sure.

haha, the yj wiring is mostly melded,
that problem is cable 19 is recieving another hot.
I'm going to google tonight,
that green connector,
if we can find the pinout for that,
It might be our guide,
if not,
I'll keep chasing tomorrow,
I have a busy day though so maybe some friday-
we'll play all that by ear.

but it's kind of all converted between both vehicles wirings,
but so far i mean,
the OP did some jenky wiring jobs, but his track was good.
it sems as though the green yellow just shorted in one of my misadventures,
somewhere down the line.
so once we undo that short,
then it's clean up crew to go back and make all his wiring safe and proper.
and senseable of course.
and maybe, maybe get that fuel pump back on the relay
Getting it to run once again would be a good start. Then you must get in there and clean this wiring nightmare up.

I find it hard to believe that the fuel pump was running constantly like we are all assuming. How could you keep the battery from constantly draining?

That terminal board of horrors is where most, if not all, of the 'melding' between the Mustang and the YJ wiring took place.

Here is what I would like to know.

Forgetting about everything else:

If the only thing that happened was that your fuel pump died why didn't the new fuel pump run when you plugged it into the jeep fuel pump harness?

All you did was unplug the old pump then plugged in the new pump into the YJ fuel pump harness, right?
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Unread 10-31-2013, 09:15 AM   #88
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[quote=laybackman;17313554]
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipit View Post
Forgetting about everything else:

If the only thing that happened was that your fuel pump died why didn't the new fuel pump run when you plugged it into the jeep fuel pump harness?

All you did was unplug the old pump then plugged in the new pump into the YJ fuel pump harness, right?
the first answer is/was, that was kind of the million dollar question,
but going by your if/then statement, if no then's are possible, it makes me presume that the if is not actually a true statement.

the second answer is yes- well no, i mean, of course i checked the fuel filter and all that, after switching the pump, I think we went down the whole line to make sure everything was good. honestly i think we started down the line, but didn't make it all the way down and so the test not performed for a bit later.

fuel pump #1 ate itself.
again, we went out, came back,
*i think the battery was dead the next day or something, i can't exactly remember,
either way when the battery got power, the fuel pump came on,
the whirring noise cause to an audible decibel, and then turned into a horrible grinding and stopped.
then the jeep wouldn't start. I opened the tank, i think we chased some wires,
this was october of 2009. My memory is kind of vague on it,
I was on Boot leave, so this was all in a ten day trek,
and due to the occurances before and after,
those ten days are a little vague.


Okay, Okay, - so here it goes,
after all there pages we have gone through,
I am going to try this to the best of my ability....
If I can please,
direct your attention to the picture of the green connector.
read this first then look at it,
and you might be able to see the details i explain....
There is a pinhole in that connector,
and out of that pinhole comes TWO green wires,
one has a yellow stripe,
and one has a double light green stripe.
if you follow the yellow striped one,
you will see it has a large blue splice attachment clip on it,
with a third green wire stemming off of it,
also with a yellow stripe.
the original yellow striped wire goes straight to the ecu,
and even with the ECU removed, it is hot.
the spliced yellow striped one goes to the fuel pump,
and even with the fuel pump removed, it is hot.
which leads me to believe that the green wire, with two light green stripes,
it my source of hot.

so someone please confirm whether this sounds like a likely scenario, or impossible-
one day, I'm driving in the mud,
me and my friends enjoy ourselves for hours,
and the day ends,
and i wash the jeep the next day.
*during this time*
there is a wire,
or a relay,
or a component,
and it either gets- melted, wet, seized, gremlin spliced- etc-
to that green wire with the double stripe.
changing that wire from a sometimes hot,
to an always hot.
which fries the fuel pump,
once making it grind,
and once maybe shorting it on the inside?
and of course, draining the life and soul out of the battery.

-on a side note, i have both fuel pumps sitting here, ready for interogation...

-and due to this possible scenario, until it is decided not possible,
I'm going to try to find some of those always hot lines and see which one is shooting into that green wire, digging around the ignition and that 60 pin connector and such.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 09:27 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
The fuel inertia switch is mounted in the dash panel of a Mustang.

A Wrangler uses a roll over valve mounted in the gas tank, The Mustang fuel pump relay is powered by the PK/BK wire.

When the ignition switch is turned to start power goes through the power PCM relay closing the fuel pump relay allowing voltage to travel along the DKGN/YL wire which is probably spliced to the GREEN WIRE in your Jeep fuel pump wiring at the gas tank.

That portion of the DKGN/YL wiring in the Mustang wiring diagram that shows power going through the inertia fuel shut-off switch has probably been eliminated and your green jeep wiring is spliced to it at that terminal board on your firewall
The fuel inertia switch is NOT mounted in the dash like I had stated here, but in the trunk of a Mustang.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 10:15 AM   #90
flipit
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and from a mustang forum in a place,
a member said
"If memory serves me correcly, the green connector goes off to the fuel pump relay."
not that that is really important at the moment, but it's an answer, and might help with the future clean up
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