Front Dana 44 for a YJ - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 03-16-2011, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
JPHood
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Front Dana 44 for a YJ

I'm working out my build list for my next major upgrade to my Jeep, and I would like some input. I want a Dana 44 front axle for my YJ. I did an 8.8 conversion a year ago and I'm planning a regear, and I'm thinking about just swapping out my 30 for a custom 44 front. I'm not looking to fab/mod a 44 from another truck, but a prebuilt axle. I'm trying to keep the same bolt pattern, so I don't have to replace wheels, and my tire carrier. Are there any Rubicon based 44s for a YJ with a 4.5x5 out there? I've looked at G2, and Currie and can't find prices for a built 44 for a YJ. TJ yes, YJ no. So does anyone have any ideas where I an get one? Or is there any of you that havea D44 that they bought for the front of their YJ?

And before the flames start, I know "real Jeeps are built not bought", but I'm in the Navy and deploying soon and don't have the time to do a build right now, and you'd be surprised at how much money you can save in 7 months on a ship.

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post #2 of 18 Old 03-16-2011, 09:23 PM
mrspradlin
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Currie can and will make them for you. They built my rear with a 3 to 5 week turn around time. Took them 16 weeks and a lot of raising hell to get it at all. I will never order from them again of you want my thoughts on them

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post #3 of 18 Old 03-16-2011, 09:29 PM
scubamc
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Give Currie or one of the Currie vendors here on the site a call and tell them what you are looking for. Currie can build you a HP44 to your specs. They can build it complete or you can use your outers off of the 30. Just be ready to drop $2000 or more. Other option is to find a Rubi 44 and set it up for your YJ. If I were to go with a 44 I would look at stepping up to a larger bolt pattern so I could ditch the 30 outers.
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-16-2011, 10:12 PM
ssyj94
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Honestly your not going to gain much from one of those 44's except bigger gears. If your looking for a bit more beef and that small bolt pattern just get alloy shafts or rcv's for the 30. What size tires/gears are you planning on running?
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-16-2011, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
JPHood
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I'm currently on 35"s with 4.10s but I'm thinking 4.56 gears with the swap. I'm actually most concerned with the ring/pinion gears.
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post #6 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 06:13 AM
ssyj94
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You have a 4.0 or 2.5? Thats a minor gear change for alot of $$ go 4.88. Are you going to add a locker at the same time? I DD mine with 4.10's 35's and a 4.0L its a hair slow off the line but cruises fine at 75mph.
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 06:26 AM
MLJeeper
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If your going to drop the money anyway, go for a hybrid 9" Ford for the front. Currie can set that up for you as easy as they can a 44 and the costs should be about the same. The 9" is pretty much infinitely upgradable, stronger and overall a much better choice.

Your limited slip differential sucks.

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Any video of the sound?
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 08:47 AM
Apollo12227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
If your going to drop the money anyway, go for a hybrid 9" Ford for the front. Currie can set that up for you as easy as they can a 44 and the costs should be about the same. The 9" is pretty much infinitely upgradable, stronger and overall a much better choice.
I'll drink to that!

Also, the front ford 9" is highpinion and curry makes them with YJ d30 knuckles. So if I went this route my $600.00 rocky road highsteer kit would still work.
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 12:07 PM
fratis
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Quote:
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I'll drink to that!

Also, the front ford 9" is highpinion and curry makes them with YJ d30 knuckles. So if I went this route my $600.00 rocky road highsteer kit would still work.
to me it just doesn't make much sense to spend the money on an "upgrade" simply to reuse the outers. with real hubs and knuckles you wont need a "histeer kit."

there is nothing wrong with buying axle assemblies. the "built not bought" slogan was invented by those with more time then money. they are the type to insist on spending 2 years cutting each and every piece of metal to create bracketry in a build. they are the type to pull 30+ year old junkyard axles and spend more time and money building them then if they just gave dynatrac a call. they tend to be bachelors with no families (that they pay attention to) and do more "fabricating" then wheeling. with how fast todays offroad market is going, its foolish to start a build that would take even a year to complete. by the time you are done better hardware is available. i know this well as it used to be me. in the time it took me to build a 609 the idea went from eccentric to common as companies like spydertrax support drop-in units. id trade all the machining and headaches in a minute to simply pick options and order. "installing and wheeling" is the way to go.

-insert meaningless out-of-place political diatribe-
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 06:58 PM
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Me personally, i certainly like to do things myself and to a degree i was pretty much the same way Fratis. Although I have done the mechanical work on my Jeep myself, I have no problem paying for a good design. The older i get the more valuable my time is to me, its as simple as that.Im with you on this, I could care less about the built not bought crap. I will be having Currie build the housing etc and will be placing a true hi9 in it.

Your limited slip differential sucks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Any video of the sound?
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post #11 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 07:23 PM
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you haven't mentioned your intension when done? DD, mudding, crawling???

Why not just super 30 w/ locker and save some real $$$

LUCY...2005 Unlimited "LJ" Rubicon Sahara #495 Build thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/my...hread-2778642/

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post #12 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 07:34 PM
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I say call Currie too. I've heard folks spend some major bills but they were very satisfied and saved time. I don't really care much for built not bought. The only thing I care about is if I'm wheeling with someone they can fix their junk on the trail when it breaks. I know I can and I'll help whoever needs it but I'm not going to spend my wheeling time fixing someone else's junk. I do what I can though; set up gears and install whatever I buy but I'm not a huge fabricator (though I did weld up my 8.8 perches and shock tabs). I did take some 1/4" x 5" x 5" galv. steel angle and make some rockers but it was simple and free. It only took time.

I do agree with Fratis about the hubs and wanting to keep the 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern on a built D44 or 9". If that's what you're going to do you might as well build the D30. The weakest point on a HP D30 (IMO) is the stub shafts, u-jonts and axle shafts, which can all be upgraded.

Lou

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post #13 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 08:29 PM
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another thought is if you have the cash on hand, you could do the superior 8.8 upgrade and go with the 5 on 5.5 axles and then match the front with the D44 or 9" that you want and go with that bolt pattern. no sacrifice @ either end!



WRM

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post #14 of 18 Old 03-17-2011, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
JPHood
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To answer all of the questions, I rock crawl mostly, I have a 4.0, and the reason I'm re-gearing is because I grenaded my 8.8 R&P when the welds broke on my spring perches. So I'm rebuilding the 8.8. that's a given, I have no problem on the highway with 4.10s, I just don't crawl as well as I would with lower gears, but because I live in VA BCH, I drive 4 hours to the nearest mountains to enjoy my Jeep. So my build has to include a ballance of crawl/highway. I would like to avoid incuring the aditional cost of replacing my wheels and my tire carrier, if I decide to go this route.
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post #15 of 18 Old 03-18-2011, 09:06 AM
ssyj94
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I say just throw the 4.56's in the 30/8.8 and see how it goes. I mean your only goin to be putting a r+p and an install kit in the 30 which is relatively cheap.

When you start destroying 30 parts or get tired of changing unitbearings swap to a better axle with real hubs. If you get here find some used rims and weld a new plate on your tire carrier. The 8.8 can easily be adapted to big 5lug or 6lug to match.
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