JeepForum.com
> Models
> Jeep Wrangler Forums
> YJ Wrangler Technical Forum
>
Front axle U-joints
 |
|
03-23-2012, 04:42 AM
|
#1
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Va Beach, va
Posts: 196
|
I started replacing the front axle u-joints last night and for the life of me i can't figure out what is keeping the axle in place. I removed the 36mm bolt from the front, brake calipers, and 3 13mm bolts from the back side. I should add that I am working on the passenger side so im not sure if the axle shaft motor is causing my problems.
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 04:57 AM
|
#2
|
|
Injanir
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Knoxvegas, TN
Posts: 8,632
|
Sounds like you need to pry the unit hub bearing away from the knuckle. They can get seized over time. I recommend a large flat head screwdriver and a BFH.
Of course I'm not as sure about a TJ (if that's what you're working on). I've never taken one off of those models.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 05:02 AM
|
#3
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Va Beach, va
Posts: 196
|
TJ's are easy they just slid out. So that shaft motor wouldn't hold the axle in? I don't want to start beating on it and break off that shift fork or something.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 05:04 AM
|
#4
|
|
Injanir
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Knoxvegas, TN
Posts: 8,632
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kphimself
TJ's are easy they just slid out. So that shaft motor wouldn't hold the axle in? I don't want to start beating on it and break off that shift fork or something.
|
No, it's just a shift fork that moves a collar over to lock the intermediate shaft to the outer shaft.
One thing I might note, I've heard some early model YJ's had c-clips in their Dana 30's. I could be wrong though. That still shouldn't stop you from taking the unit hub bearing off.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 05:06 AM
|
#5
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Va Beach, va
Posts: 196
|
This one's a 95 so it shouldn't be a problem. everything else is rust welded together, why not the hubs.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 05:08 AM
|
#6
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Va Beach, va
Posts: 196
|
Im wondering if a gear puller may help.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 06:04 AM
|
#7
|
|
Web Wheeler
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Falling Waters, WV
Posts: 2,526
|
No a gear puller may just pull the hub apart at the bearing. Ask me how I know. There is a trick where you put a socket behind it and turn the wheel and it pops the unibearing off. I saw it on Stu's site but there are write ups on here on how to do it too. I am on my work computer so I dont have the links to post ATM.
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
Big difference between a Warn winch and a worn wench. I'll take the former.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Oh and the phrase high cfm doesnt do that fan justice. It could suck peanut butter through a straw!
|
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 06:23 AM
|
#8
|
|
Injanir
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Knoxvegas, TN
Posts: 8,632
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283
No a gear puller may just pull the hub apart at the bearing. Ask me how I know. There is a trick where you put a socket behind it and turn the wheel and it pops the unibearing off. I saw it on Stu's site but there are write ups on here on how to do it too. I am on my work computer so I dont have the links to post ATM.
|
Boom.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm
Apparently the method is from mrBlaine.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 06:44 AM
|
#9
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 1,709
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4
|
This ^... I have used this method a few times, works great.
__________________
[FONT="Arial"][SIZE="3"]
[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/yj-betty-transformation-1229681/"]'93 YJ (Under Construction)[/URL]
Previous Jeeps:
'83 CJ7
'92 YJ
'00 XJ
'99 TJ
'05 TJ Rubicon[/SIZE][/FONT]
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 07:22 AM
|
#10
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 627
|
The bolt trick on Stu's site works great. A hint, have a helper to keep the hub from turning when you turn the wheel to pop the bearing loose. The surfaces aren't exactly flat and if the hub is really stuck the tendency will be for the hub to spin flopping the bolt to the floor. On one of mine I even had to place a breaker bar across the wheel studs to use as leverage to keep everything from twisting as I turned the wheel to pop the unit bearing.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 07:27 AM
|
#11
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Va Beach, va
Posts: 196
|
The socket trick worked like a champ. Now to get the rusted u-joints out.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-2012, 01:13 PM
|
#12
|
|
Web Wheeler
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Falling Waters, WV
Posts: 2,526
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kphimself
The socket trick worked like a champ. Now to get the rusted u-joints out.
|
Glad to hear it
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
Big difference between a Warn winch and a worn wench. I'll take the former.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Oh and the phrase high cfm doesnt do that fan justice. It could suck peanut butter through a straw!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
