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Unread 08-24-2011, 05:24 AM   #1
cascivic
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front axle locker stops working

Hey guys i tried searching but need some help on this one.

95 yj when i got it six months ago 4wd wasnt engaging. I ended up putting in a new actuator and all was well. about 2 weeks ago i put a spartan in the front axle and took it for a quick test drive it seemed to be working no audible clicks but front driveshaft was spinning all the time, it was really hopping when i did a test turn on pavement and it seemed to really climb on some small hills i tried it on(better than it did before)

fast forward to last weekend i took it out to my usual spot and it seemed to be doing really well. but then after being in 4wd for about an hour i got stuck in one section that seemed kinda easy for a yj with a locked front end. my buddy got out to help and said that only one tire was spinning. i tried re engaging 4wd but to no avail. Now before i make the decision to do a tj shaft or posi does anyone know if vacuum will bleed away from the actuator and let the shift collar move back...or is that impossible? And do youthink i should just pony up for the tj shaft (and rip all the work totally back out to install) or just get the posi and be done with it(and have the advantage of seamless locker on the street and 2low)
thanks for any help!

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Unread 08-24-2011, 05:33 AM   #2
VACJ5
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Go to a junkyard and pick up a 1 piece axle shaft. They should be relatively cheap. You say rip all the work back out? You don't even have to crack the diff cover open to replace that axle shaft. You take the wheel, brakes and unit bearing off. It can be done in the driveway in about 1 hour. You have already spent the money on the locker... I would spend the 40-50 bucks on the 1 piece shaft and be done with it.

If you don't wheel a lot... then the posi lok might be the way to go for you. However, keep a few of the axle couplers in your toolbox.
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Unread 08-24-2011, 05:39 AM   #3
cascivic
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Originally Posted by VACJ5 View Post
Go to a junkyard and pick up a 1 piece axle shaft. They should be relatively cheap. You say rip all the work back out? You don't even have to crack the diff cover open to replace that axle shaft. You take the wheel, brakes and unit bearing off. It can be done in the driveway in about 1 hour. You have already spent the money on the locker... I would spend the 40-50 bucks on the 1 piece shaft and be done with it.

If you don't wheel a lot... then the posi lok might be the way to go for you. However, keep a few of the axle couplers in your toolbox.
from what ive researched for the xj/tj shaft you have to replace the inner seal its apparently different?? if you dont i would much rather do that

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd3...jconvert-1.htm
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Unread 08-24-2011, 06:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
does anyone know if vacuum will bleed away from the actuator and let the shift collar move back...or is that impossible? And do youthink i should just pony up for the tj shaft (and rip all the work totally back out to install) or just get the posi and be done with it(and have the advantage of seamless locker on the street and 2low)
thanks for any help!
good question on the pressure bleed off. I do not know.

Here is my advice. Forget the TJ shaft if you have to rip some work out and replace the seal. Just spend 10-15 min and 0 bucks and lock it in. You can manually lock the actuator in place, its simple and free.....the fork is held in place on the actuator rod with tiny e-clips on both sides. if you pull the driver side e-clip, slide the fork over, and replace the e-clip it will be locked in full time.

In my experience most people have issues with the posi and it cost more than any other solution. fix the stock system before you think about posi. It's just a couple hoses if the actuator is working properly. same price.

an xj of tj shaft is a great mod if you need to replace the seal anyway or if you are in the diff for other reasons. it's a good thing and the "right" way but its a little more work.
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Unread 08-24-2011, 08:37 AM   #5
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what brand locker do you have it sound to me that your 4wheel drive is working !!!!! if one tire in front is spining here ? so i dont think that your front is locked
if your 4wheel drive is not working none of the front wheel will be spining
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Unread 08-24-2011, 08:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
Now before i make the decision to do a tj shaft or posi does anyone know if vacuum will bleed away from the actuator and let the shift collar move back...or is that impossible?
If you put vacuum on the shift motor itself it should hold a vacuum. If your talking about the entire system then yes it will. It needs constant vacuum on either port of the shift motor depending if you're in 4wd or not. There is no check valve on the 4wd vacuum hoses and the actual switch is on the t-case. It moves vacuum from one side of the shift motor to the other.

Personally I have no issues with a properly working CAD system. It keeps wear and tear off my Lock Right. The first thing I would do is check for vacuum at the plug to the shift motor. Put it in 4HI and back to 2WD and the vacuum should shift from one port to the other. If you don't have good vacuum then check all the lines and plugs for leaks. If you do have good vacuum then maybe the diaphragm in the shift motor is leaking.
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Unread 08-24-2011, 09:06 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by GOWAD View Post
what brand locker do you have it sound to me that your 4wheel drive is working !!!!! if one tire in front is spining here ? so i dont think that your front is locked
if your 4wheel drive is not working none of the front wheel will be spining
wrong. if the fork slides to the right because of vacuum loss then it will revert to 3 wheel drive. the t-case drives the shaft, shaft drives the locker, locker makes front left spin and right inner shaft spin...but not the right outter shaft.
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Unread 08-24-2011, 09:30 AM   #8
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That's right... I forgot about the axle seal. I did that when I installed my locker back when I had a 30 front. I agree with Poke... lock the vac disconnect over.
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Unread 08-24-2011, 09:54 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Poke View Post
wrong. if the fork slides to the right because of vacuum loss then it will revert to 3 wheel drive. the t-case drives the shaft, shaft drives the locker, locker makes front left spin and right inner shaft spin...but not the right outter shaft.
yah your right
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Unread 08-24-2011, 09:48 PM   #10
cascivic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poke View Post
good question on the pressure bleed off. I do not know.

Here is my advice. Forget the TJ shaft if you have to rip some work out and replace the seal. Just spend 10-15 min and 0 bucks and lock it in. You can manually lock the actuator in place, its simple and free.....the fork is held in place on the actuator rod with tiny e-clips on both sides. if you pull the driver side e-clip, slide the fork over, and replace the e-clip it will be locked in full time.

In my experience most people have issues with the posi and it cost more than any other solution. fix the stock system before you think about posi. It's just a couple hoses if the actuator is working properly. same price.

an xj of tj shaft is a great mod if you need to replace the seal anyway or if you are in the diff for other reasons. it's a good thing and the "right" way but its a little more work.
this is interesting.. but what are the downsides does it make the locker not invisible on the street??
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Unread 08-25-2011, 06:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
this is interesting.. but what are the downsides does it make the locker not invisible on the street??
it's the same as driving a TJ or xj with a front locker. It should not change the characteristics much if the locker unlocks properly. you will feel it but it will not be undrivable. will change the characteristics slightly. Its free and takes minuets. If you don't like it after a week, just undo it. Then fix your stock system or go with a posi.
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Unread 08-25-2011, 07:40 AM   #12
cascivic
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Originally Posted by Poke View Post
it's the same as driving a TJ or xj with a front locker. It should not change the characteristics much if the locker unlocks properly. you will feel it but it will not be undrivable. will change the characteristics slightly. Its free and takes minuets. If you don't like it after a week, just undo it. Then fix your stock system or go with a posi.
ok cool gonna have to try it after this hurrican passes.. are the clips your speakin of those black like half circles in all the pics.. the two times i had it apart i wasnt working on that part so i never really saw the guts of it myself.
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Unread 08-30-2011, 09:21 PM   #13
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so a little update. i came outside today and have a pool of diff fluid leaking out of the passenger side axle shaft. when we put the axle back in this part broke

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0027.htm

Im guessing i need this? and i should probably replace my outer axle shaft seal. does anyone know of a place to buy these locally or a part number on quadratec? and im guessing from searching that the best and easiest way to do this is buy a threaded rod with a washer and nut as big as the seal, an insert from the end and "pull" the new seal into place?
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Unread 08-30-2011, 10:16 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
so a little update. i came outside today and have a pool of diff fluid leaking out of the passenger side axle shaft. when we put the axle back in this part broke

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0027.htm

Im guessing i need this? and i should probably replace my outer axle shaft seal. does anyone know of a place to buy these locally or a part number on quadratec? and im guessing from searching that the best and easiest way to do this is buy a threaded rod with a washer and nut as big as the seal, an insert from the end and "pull" the new seal into place?
That part you broke is just there to keep big stuff like rocks and sticks out of your axle tubes. It doesn't really do much more than that. I prefer the tube seals to keep out water and mud and everything else that can ruin your seals. You will have to do the tj axle swap to use the tube seals because the two-piece axle on the passenger side is to thick to fit through the tube seal. And If you the one piece Tj axle swap you have to change the inner axle seals anyway. If you ask me even though you have to pull the carrier, Changing the seals in the hogs head with the carrier out is WAY easier than changing the seal in the damn vacuum disconnect housing. I ruined 4 seals using the threaded rod method before I just said the hell with it and bout a chromo once piece axle kit on ebay. I couldn't be happier with it. It even came with the seals necessary to do the swap so there is no guess work. I would also like to note that I have a lockrite in the front and I can barely tell it's there.
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Unread 08-30-2011, 10:40 PM   #15
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If you are leaking fluid from the passenger side it can only be a bad axle seal which is located just to the outside of the CAD. That plastic piece on the outside does not hold in fluid. If you decide the 1 piece shaft is for you, now would be a good time to do it. It's more work to do the 1 piece axle swap than to just replace the outside passenger seal but you will be a good part of the way there to just replace the seal.

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