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Unread 07-01-2010, 12:41 AM   #1
T.Maxwell
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Front Axle Disconnect Vacuum Elimination

Has anyone heard of a method to mechanically engage/disengage the axle locking mechanism on the front axle of an 88 YJ? My buddy has just left *****ing that there has to be a better way to engage/disengage the front axle rather than my old, rusty vacuum motor. Any thoughts are welcome. We discussed the elimination of the vacuum motor and perhaps a heavy-duty "choke like cable" to provide engagement/disengagement of the front axle. Thanks again to all!

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Unread 07-01-2010, 12:48 AM   #2
jbolty
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very common mod. search for posi lock.
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Unread 07-01-2010, 12:51 AM   #3
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the FAQ section is your friend

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...ite-up-595515/

or if you want to get crazy
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...beware-793813/
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Unread 07-01-2010, 07:27 AM   #4
Newfie_Jeeper
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I just went through a similar search last week, thinking to replace my disconnect.

However, I researched how the system works. Once I understood it, I repaired it in about 2 hours. Pulled the whole vac harness, repaired it, tested it before reinstalling, and reinstalled in jeep. I now have it protected and routed in a way that protects it well, and it cost me 3 bucks for some vac lines and tape.

Its extremely simple. 90% chance your vac motor is fine. There are 4 plastic lines that have to be intact. If they crack or leak, the motor will not work. Fix the leak (easy!!!) and it will work perfect.

No need to mcguyver something up and dont wast 250 bucks on a posi lock.

Yes The posi lock does work, but I'm spending my money elsewhere, and I am absolutely positive that the vac motor will work everytime i shift into 4wd. In the off chance it doesent, if you understand how it works, you can get it to go into 4wd with out using your factory harness anyway.

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Unread 07-01-2010, 09:35 PM   #5
T.Maxwell
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Newfie: Did you get your info from the Factory Service Manual or where?
Thanks for the shout and best of luck to you!
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Unread 07-01-2010, 11:05 PM   #6
timatoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Maxwell View Post
Newfie: Did you get your info from the Factory Service Manual or where?
Thanks for the shout and best of luck to you!
There's a whole break down on the vac system in the FAQ's. Yest the vac system is simple, when it works. Personally I got rid of mine with it quit and did the homebuilt posi. That also worked fine, but I eventually swapped in solid shafts and was done with the whole disco thing.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 12:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newfie_Jeeper View Post

No need to mcguyver something up and dont wast 250 bucks on a posi lock.


Newfie
for a $29 dollar locking choke cable and a few small parts its a str8 forward and reliable mod. he said his vac motor was all rusted and they sell for $80.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 09:25 AM   #8
notmyj
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Better yet, go to the junk yard get a set of TJ axles shafts and eliminate the disco completely.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 09:46 AM   #9
Newfie_Jeeper
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I agree that it may be worth it to some to remove the vac system and go manual cable. However, I've seen people having adjustment problems with cables, and that is just as unreliable as the vac lines.

Jeep put it on the YJ because its a good system and does work. It does however, need to be maintained.

The rig is 20 yrs old. If the vac lines havent been maintained, of course its gonna act like a Piece of ****. If you didnt maintain your engine, change the plugs, or oil, or just drove it for 20 yrs, it would be the same thing.

AND, now, almost 20 yrs later the disconnect is finally starting to give out...That aint bad if it worked for the first 15-18 yrs trouble free.

Yes, posi lock works. Yes, Solid shaft upgrade is definitely good, if your front driveshaft is balanced and you dont mind it spinning all the time.

But, It is EXTREMELY cheap to at least test the original system. 5 mins and 4 bolts will tell you if your vac motor is working. 5 mins with the motor running to see if the switch in the TC is working. If it is, unplug the harness, fix the leaks, tape it up, package it well and put it all back. It will probably work for another 15-18 yrs.

T.Maxwell dont let a little rust scare. I have a parts YJ here that rusted so bad the chassis broke in half.... the Vac motor still worked.

If you want a break down of the vac lines and colors and how to test the motor, search this board or I can tell you what I did with mine.

Newfie
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Unread 07-02-2010, 10:29 AM   #10
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i like having the two piece axle. when im in low range on a granite slab and need to turn it helps to be able to unlock the axle while in 4 low
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Unread 07-02-2010, 10:32 AM   #11
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if i were to use the vacum motor i would repipe it to solenoinds controlled by switches on the dash and not controlled by the transfer case switch
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Unread 07-02-2010, 11:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
if i were to use the vacum motor i would repipe it to solenoinds controlled by switches on the dash and not controlled by the transfer case switch
that is exactly how mine is set up
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Unread 07-02-2010, 11:08 AM   #13
bigsquat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian_nichols View Post
that is exactly how mine is set up
i wish i had tried this b4 i cut off mine. not that my posilok doesnt work ok, it would be cool to do it that way.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 12:23 PM   #14
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brian you got a write up on how you did the switch setup? thanks!!!
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Unread 07-02-2010, 12:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OOXTEME View Post
brian you got a write up on how you did the switch setup? thanks!!!
I didn't really do a write up, But it is very straight forward. all you need is a 3 way toggle, 2 vacuum switches, wire and some vacuum line. I got my switches from the junk yard off an 80's ford. then you just run the wire so that 1 way on the toggle activates one switch and the other way activates the other. then just run a constant vacuum to the switches and run a line from each switch to the vacuum motor and have fun. once the switch has power it allows the vacuum to go past the switch. I have been considering doing a write up for some time now, But just haven't
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