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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 05-31-2003, 05:12 PM   #1
NaeKid
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Your Answers Are Usually Here!

Frequently asked questions about the YJ

Standard acronyms used on the forum:
BL - Body Lift
CV Joint - Constant Velocity Joint (used with SYE)
I4 - Inline engine, 4 cylinder, 2.5L
I6 - Inline engine, 6 cylinder, 4.2L or 4.0L
MML - Motor Mount Lift
RTI - Ramp Travel Index
OBA - OnBoard Air - Air compressor mounted in vehicle.
SYE - Slip Yoke Eliminator
SOA (SPOA) - Spring Over Axle
SRS - Shackle Reversal System
SUA (SPUA) - Spring Under Axle (stock configuration)
V6 - Engine from Ford, Dodge, AMC, Chevy - more power and normally used in a swap from the I4.
V8 - Engine from Ford, Dodge, AMC, Chevy - more power and normally used in a swap from the I6.

What is the Jeep Wave?
Official word on the Jeep Wave

What size of tires fit without rubbing?
Older YJ (sagged springs on stock rims with lots of miles) - 235/75r15
Newer YJ (non-sagged springs on stock rims with few miles) - 30x9.5r15
Newer YJ (non-sagged springs on non-stock rims with few miles) - 31x10.5r15
2.5" lift on stock rims - 32x10.5r15
4" lift on stock rims - 33x12.5r15

Backspacing on the standard rim is 5.5".

Stock height of Jeep to rocker panels - 18"
Wheelbase length of the YJ - 93.5"
Wheelbase width of the YJ - 57"
Ground clearance - 9"
Towing capacity - 2,000lbs with proper hitch and connections (officially) - 3,000lbs with Class III hitch (not recommended, but, can be done at slow-speeds with trailer-brakes and load-levelling bars)

What kind of transmissions are in the YJ?
1987 - 1989
AX-5 - Aisin 5-speed behind the I4
BA-10/5 - Peugot 5-speed behind the I6
TF999 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I6

1989 - 1995
AX-5 - Aisin 5-speed behind the I4
AX-15 - Aisin5-speed behind the I6
TF904 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I4 (1994, 1995 only)
TF999 - TorqueFlight Automatic behind the I6

How do I know what engine I have in my Jeep?
If you lift the hood you will be able to count either 4 or 6 spark plugs.

Early (pre 1991) 4-cyl engines were fuel injected via throttle body - 2.5L
Second gen (post 1992) 4-cyl engines are fuel injected via MPI (Multi-Port Injection) - 2.5L
Early (pre 1991) 6-cyl engines were carb'd - 4.2L
Second gen (post 1991) 6-cyl engines are fuel injected via MPI (Multi-Port Injection) - 4.0L

What gears do I have in my Jeep?
I4 Automatic - 3.73:1
I4 Standard - 4.10:1
I6 Automatic - 3.54:1 (normally)
I6 Standard - 3.07:1, 3.54:1 or 3.73:1 - must verify with the tag on the axle or by pulling the differential cover and reading the numbers stamped in the ring gear or by counting revolutions of wheel versus driveshaft.



What fluids do I use and how much do I put in my Jeep?
*Axles:
- Gear oil - 80 weight for light duty and normally cooler climates - 90w120 weight for heavy duty and normally warmer climates Note: Some rear axles are equiped with factory posi - a limited slip additive must be put in with the gear oil to extend and protect the limited slip action
Dana 30 = 2.5 pints
Dana 35 = 3.5 pints
Dana 44 = 4.0 pints

*Engines:
- 10w30 for good general usage in most climates
- 5w30 for those colder climates (when temps are below freezing for extended periods of time)
2.5L = 4 quarts (w/ filter)
4.0L = 6 quarts (w/ filter)
4.2L = 6 quarts (w/ filter)

*Transmission (standard):
- 80 weight gear oil but most recoment Redline MT 90 to protect the interals better. 75W90 is listed by some but the 80W is just cheaper to find with no ill effects.
AX-5 = 3.3 quarts
AX-15 = 3.25 quarts
BA-10/5 = 2.45 quarts

*Transmission (automatic):
- Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Dexron III
TF 904 = 4 quarts
TF 999 = 4 quarts

*Transfer case:
- Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF+4
231 = 2.2 pints

What is the easiest way to gain room for larger tires? - Suspension lift. When the springs are sagged out from years of use or abuse, a 2" suspension lift gains more clearance (and flex) than a 2" body lift. The other easy way to gain room for larger tires is to install Bushwacker or TJ flares and trim the sheet-metal of the body to allow for more room.

Which is better, open diff, posi-diff, lock-diff or spool-diff in a set of stock axles? - The posi-diff situation is the easiest on the Jeep's axles with least chance of serious breakage. For more information regarding the different choices, try Randy's tech sheet. A locking diff is the strongest, and will carry you further down the road less travelled.

I want to put a winch on my Jeep, which one should I get? - The rule of thumb is that a winch must be rated at least 2-times the weight of the vehicle. For a stock YJ running no doors or top, no back seat and minimal tools/spares a 6000lb electric winch will do the job very nicely. Once you start adding in extra weight-inducing extras (hard-top, full hard-doors, tools, people, etc), an 8000lb electric winch gets the nod. If you are into hard-core mud or rocks, 9000lb winches and higher will become the recommended rated unit.

Can I swap my 4.2l engine for a 4.0l engine? - Yes you can. Its basically a bolt-together situation, but you will have to remember to remove all the wiring with the 4.2 and put in all the wiring for the 4.0 (all sensors, including O2 on the exhaust). While you are at it, install an electric fuel pump to provide the correct PSI and GPM for the 4.0. The guages on the dash should work properly once they are all hooked back up again.

How hard is it to swap in a V8? - The Chevy and Ford V8's are very easy to put in with lots of room under the hood. AMC/Dodge V8's can be mounted infront of the I6 transmissions with minor modifications to the bellhousing. Using the existing transmission may not be best, and is not recommended to use the I4 transmissions behind V8 power. V8wrangler_idaho (Ford) and NaeKid (Chevy) both have V8's in their Jeeps with several others in the process of changing or having completed. Standard tools with a welder, grinder and angle-finder are all you would normally need.

If you are wishing to use all the stock power-train (transmission to the axles) with V8 power under the hood, check Advance Adapters to get their V8 swap book, their adapters and motor mounts to make the job real easy. Novak Adapters has a great knowledge base online about the V8 engine swap. It is an easy to understand article.

My carb'd Jeep keeps stalling when I hit the brakes - why!? - Welcome to the world of the early YJ. It is a well known problem and a complete PITA! To start, check all the vacuum lines around the carburetor. Any that are cracked or missing - replace. Once that is complete, if there is no change in the way the Jeep runs, try a simple repair as listed at JeepTech.com. If that doesn't work, then its time to visit a professional, or go the route of thousands of other Jeep owners and get rid of the Carter carb and replace it with a Weber carb .. you can find these carbs from E-bay (used) or new at many autoparts stores. For further information, you can also check this list of links directly related to the carburetor. If you want to know how they work, HowStuffWorks.com has the answers!

Which CB channel should I use when wheeling? - Channel 4 and Channel 16 are the two most used channels when 4x4'ing. If you are out alone, try both to see if there is someone nearby to join up with.

I want a softtop for my Jeep - what should I get? - Bestop has been in business since 1954 and has very high quality product and service. California Tops is fairly new to the aftermarket top scene, but their designs are cutting edge.

I want better sound in my Jeep - what should I do? - Pioneer, Sony, Panasonic and many others make great non-skip players and when combined with poly-speakers you don't need to worry about dunking them as much. Replace the front speakers on the driver's side by removing the bolts along the left side of the dash and prying the dash away from the body. You will have enough room to reach the nuts on the old speaker and replace with the new speaker. Passenger-side is easily done without first removing the torx-bolts. A sound bar with aftermarket speakers is great to have. Thor Sound Wedge is also a great product. You could also custom-build speaker-boxes and amp-boxes if you have the inclination.

What are the best mufflers to get? - Personal preference here - the cheapest ones won't hurt your wallet as bad when you bash them on the rocks, or rip them off on obsticles. A free-flow muffler and cat are good for a few more ponies. To check if a muffler and catalytic converter are free-flowing - look through it. If you can see your friend on the other side, its free flowing.

I want some headers - what should I use? - Clifford Performance has great headers for the I6 - even the ability to run true duel-exhaust (not considered legal in some states)

I just put on ??? size tires - what should I re-gear to? - If you know what gears you currently run and the size of tires you just removed, you can use an online calculator to figure out what gears you should use to put your engine back into its proper power-band with the new larger tires.

Another very nice calculator (thanks provinT13) - http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Normal available gear ratios for YJ axles are:
# 3.07:1
# 3.54:1
# 3.73:1
# 4.10:1
@ 4.56:1
@ 4.88:1
@ 5.13:1

# = Stock available gears
@ = Aftermarket supplier like Randy's Ring and Pinion

I want to run 35" or larger tires, what should I do to reduce breakage? - The front Dana 30 axle is fairly strong, and can handle upto 37" tires if you aren't too hard on the gas-peddle. The rear Dana 35 is not as strong, and its maximum recommended tire-size is 33". To strengthen the rear axle, Superior Gear has the Super 35 kit to increase the strength of the stock rear axle, combine that with a truss and you will have less chance of breakage. Replacing the rear axle with a Ford 8.8" (out of a 1995 or newer Explorer), or a Dana 44 (Metric-tonne Commanche (MJ), Towing-package Cherokee (XJ)) are a direct bolt-in once the spring perches are welded into place. Also, some of the newer Toyota axles also have the same wheel-bolt-pattern as a stock YJ, and their width is just about perfect as well.

What is the best way to gain more flex from my Jeep? - Removing both the front and rear track-bars (bar from frame to axle, one mounting point on each side) will gain you alot of flex right from the start. Most are happy removing the rear track-bar and suffer no ill-effects. Removing (or temporairilly disabling) the sway bars on the front of the Jeep will be the icing on the cake for flex. Some find the ride horrible on the street with lots of body-lean in the corners. Others are happy without track-bars or swaybars. Try removing one at a time (starting with the rear track-bar) till you find the ride the easiest for your driving style without making you feel un-safe in corners.

Why does everyone hate body lifts? - Its not that we hate body lifts on our Jeeps, its that most find their looks as being ugly, and the higher body lifts can become dangerous - especially in accident situations. Many instances the body lift has busted through the body and caused the body to sag at one or more places - even to the point of the body lift pucks breaking through at all mounting points and the body coming to rest on the frame again.

Can I put a CJ-7 hardtop on my YJ? - Yes you can. There are a few things you must do in order to make it function properly with your tail-gate, but it will fit in place without any major issues. Look towards opening your rear-window before opening the tail-gate. You can also attempt to swap a YJ-style rear window onto the CJ's top.

I want different rims. What will fit? - Within the Jeep line of vehicles, you can use rims from any YJ, XJ, MJ, ZJ or KJ. In the Dodge/Chrysler/AMC world, Dakota (1987 - 1990), Ram (1949 - 1979) and RamCharger (1975-1985) and AMC Eagle may fit (there were rare options with different bolt-patterns). Outside of the world of Jeep, you can get Ford Explorer, BroncoII and Ranger rims, Toyota pickup rims (certain newer models only). Of course, the Mazada B4000 rims will fit (It is a Ford - or is it vice-versa). Pontiac 6000 cars also use the same bolt-pattern, but their rims are 14" in diameter - so its not a perfect match.

Other possibilities include:
many older ford full-size cars
many older dodge/plymouth/chrysler full-size cars

You can also purchase brand-new aftermarket rims. All you need to specify is the bolt-pattern of 5-bolts on 4.5" diameter if you are running the stock axles. Stock backspacing is 5 1/2" - anything less than that will "push" your wheels outwards for a wider stance.

Why do I have water pouring inside my Jeep when it rains? - That is a fairly common occurance. The grill on the top of your engine area (just in front of the windshield) allows fresh air into the Jeep for the heater. It also allows water and snow to collect. There is a drain-hose on the firewall about 1.75" in diameter that can get plugged. Pull off the hose, and tip it upside down. Wash it out with the garden hose in the backyard and then wash the grill-area down as well pouring as much water down as possible to wash all the trapped dirt out. Place the hose back in place and enjoy dry feet again.

You can also add a scoop to the grill area to limit the amount of water/dirt entering the fresh-air intake.

What is the best way to clean my soft-top? - You can use a baking-soda/water mix to clean the canvas tops and doors. Using a soft bristle brush, work the paste into the top. Once completed, rinse with clean water. If that doesn't remove all the stains, visit one of your local boat-supply stores and ask them for some canvas cleaner (many boats use a canvas cover). While a little more pricey than the baking-soda, it might just do a good job for you.

What should I look out for when purchasing a used YJ? - Depending on what you are looking for, any of the YJ's are great projects, wheelers, daily drivers, etc.


1987 - 1988 - Major Project Jeep
  • V8 swap with swapped in transmission and transfer case
  • SOA, trimmed body panels, exo-cage
  • Look for rusting in the floor near the roll-cage mounts
1989 - 1991 - Minor Project Jeep / wheeler
  • Lift kits/bigger tires
  • V8 swap for I4 (also change transmission and transfercase)
  • Look for rusting in the floor near the roll-cage mounts
1992 - 1995 - Daily driver / Minor Project Jeep / Wheeler
  • Lift kits/bigger tires
  • V8 swap for I4 (also change transmission and transfercase)
As with any vehicle, make sure that you know what you are getting. Check fluids, check bushings, check for rusting, check for accident damage, check for 4-wheel-drive (not just the light on the dash, but that is a good indicator) by "twisting" the suspension till you have one front and one rear tire spinning in the air, check for the doors closing properly (again, accident damage), check over any mods that may have been done (you don't want farmer mods on it - clean bolt-on's are great, or properly welded ones) .. and always get a saftey inspection done.

How much is this Jeep worth - or - how much is my Jeep worth? - Modifications to the Jeep do not increase or decrease the overall value of the Jeep. In general visiting Kelly Blue Book will give you a good starting point for buying or selling a Jeep.

How do I know if my VIN is correct or where was my Jeep built? - If you visit the VIN decoder, it will tell you where, when and what major options were built into your Jeep

I love the look of the TJ bumpers. How hard is it to put them on? - The rear bumper will bolt right into place without any problems, that is, as long as your rear cross-member isn't damaged. The front bumper can be put on as well, but, it is recommended that you use a die-grinder to open up the holes a bit to match up with your factory bolt-holes on the front of the frame-horns.

More questions and answers will be added to this FAQ as time goes on. If you wish to add a question and answer to the FAQ, or if something needs to be disputed, updated or adjusted please send a PM to NaeKid

Last update to this page: Oct 2009

__________________
Hello, my name is Vance and I am a Jeepaholic.
Its better to be naked with your friends, than to be clothed with your enemies
  • From street to trail, '88 YJ on 38" tires does it all well
  • Silver 2006 TJ Unlimited, zombie ready as the daily-driver
  • a Kawasaki KLR650 DualSport bike

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Unread 01-28-2004, 11:30 PM   #2
sentinal02
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New York
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Extended FAQ 4WD Problems/Liners/Lifts

Bedliners in a Jeep:

Has it been done?
Absolutely. It happens to be one of the most popular mods of the Jeep’s interior. Herculiner or Rhino liner are probably to two most common types of liners used. The choice mainly depends on how much work you want to do and how much you want to spend. Herculiner DIY kits can be found for about 100 dollars on line and in many hardware stores. Recently they’ve introduced several different color options.

Rhino lining is professionally done by local shops. Visit www.rhinolinings.com for information on where your local dealer can be found. Prices for this can vary widely, and often depend on how much of the prep work you do yourself. Often you can get a significant price reduction by doing almost all of it.

Prep work/tricks:
Like any good painting project, the preparation work makes all the difference when doing a project like this. For the DIY kit, the instructions are fairly self explanatory. The only difference is the amount of work. Remember, the interior of the jeep has many more holes to block and many more nooks and crannies to paint then a pickup truck bed. Removing nearly the entire interior is the first step. All of the seat in the jeep are held in by only a few bolts and can be removed easily. Seatbelts too should come out. A little harder to remove those though since Chrysler decided to put Torx head bolts in to hold these and they can easily be stripped. Be patient and use PB blaster or similar penetrating oil prior to starting this project so as not to break bolts. Removing/lining the roll cage is entirely up to owner, but if you do leave it in, it’s a good idea to mask off the seams and bolt heads on the mounting plates to facilitate removal of the cage at a later date. Once everything is removed, wash out the tub to remove any mud and dirt. Sand and remove any rust found. If large holes are found, repair them before lining the jeep. Many of the body panels such as foot wells, rear cargo area, fender wells, etc can be replaced with pre-formed weld in replacement panels from off-road suppliers such as www.quadratec.com if severe rust is found. Smaller spots can be spot fixed with new sheet metal and either welded in or riveted. An angle grinder with a stiff wire brush will make short work of the sanding/scuffing process. A drill will do the same, but a grinder will do it faster. Be sure to scuff even the good paint, but it is not necessary to cut all the way to bare metal here. Clean the tub again and then wipe down the tub with acetone or xylene per the instruction. Mask off EVERYTHING not to be lined. Masking tape is your friend because once dry, these liners are nearly impossible to remove easily. Ball up the tape and stuff the balls into the drain holes of the jeep and any bolt holes. Leave enough sticking out of the holes to be grasped with pliers later on to remove the tape. That is what it’s going to take to get some of them out. These liners do not even cut easily with a razor blade. The same rule applies to covered bolt heads. Apply the liner per instructions, being sure not to get any on you. As said, this stuff doesn’t come off easily and will remain on the skin for at least a week. If you are applying liner to an area that a straight line is desirable, (ie the upper lip of the tub where the top begins, the rear tailgate area, door area) apply a piece of tape so that one edge marks where the line should be and then remove the tape before the liner has time to dry. Repeat the process with the second coat. This will ensure a sharp, clean division at the edge of the liner. A one gallon can of liner will cover the tub with two generous coats and may have enough left to do a third in high traffic areas such as the foot wells. For professionally applied liners, follow the prep work given by the shop. They will know best what needs to be done.

Other options:
Besides, Herculiner and Rhino liners, there are other brands out there, many of which are just as good. Many people are satisfied with a much cheaper bed lining product found in Wal-Mart. Shop around and get opinions on what is the better liner and what some of the pros and cons are. Does the liner fade quickly? How does it hold up to heavy traffic? Are there any chemicals that will penetrate the liner? This last question is of particular importance as Dot 3 brake fluid will eat through Herculiner given a few days. An important thing to know as many people will carry spare fluids out on the trail, which can lead to a spill.

For specifically rust protection, POR-15 rust inhibiting products are probably the most widely accepted type of coating on the market. These products reputedly bond with the rust, forming a hard, impenetrable coat, stopping the rust from spreading and preventing new rust from forming. Remember, bed liners merely protect against rust. They do nothing about existing rust. POR-15 is primarily used as an undercoating on frames and undercarriages, but it has be used with good results on interiors as well. If you are truly worried about rust inside, touch up any bad spots with a small can of POR-15 and then apply your liner over top after you have scuffed the area with fine sand paper.

4WD Engagement problems:
This information applies only to stock Dana 30 front axle disconnect of the 87-95 YJ jeep models.

One of the most common questions asked by new jeep owners is, “Why isn’t my 4wd working?” Though there are several possible reasons why the 4wd system of the jeep may be malfunctioning, the most common answer lies in the vacuum disconnect system that these models use. To understand why, you first need to understand how this system works.

The heart of the system lies on the passenger side of the front axle, just behind the wheel. There is a small molded box on axle tube that houses the disconnect shift fork which is connected directly to the shift motor. The axle shaft on this side is split into two sections, an inner section that connects to the housing and the differential, and an outer shaft that runs from the housing to wheel hub. When 4wd is engaged via the transfer case selection lever, the shift fork in the housing slides a collar from the outer shaft onto the inner shaft, coupling the two together so that they spin as one piece. If this fork fails to move, the shafts are not joined.

The jeep uses and open differential on the front axle (as well as the rear), which means that power is sent to the wheel that has the least amount of resistance. Under normal circumstances, like dry and semi dry pavement, this isn’t a problem as both wheels usually have somewhat equal resistance and thus power is transmitted roughly equally. If stuck in the mud or snow however, it is possible for one wheel to have no resistance. Thus all of the power will be transmitted to that wheel, causing the one that has traction to remain still, while the one that doesn’t just spins and spins. You’re stuck. This characteristic of the differential also holds true if the two piece shaft isn’t coupled via the collar. Since the inner shaft has the least amount of resistance because it isn’t connected to anything, all of the power is applied to it, thus robbing the driver side of any movement.

To move the fork, Chrysler decided to use a vacuum powered motor. A vacuum source line is run from somewhere on the engine (the location varies and can come from the brake booster, the manifold, etc) to a vacuum switch on the transfer case. When 4wd is selected, the switch sends the vacuum along several lines to the shift motor located on the front axle. The vacuum pressure is applied to a diaphragm inside the motor, thus sucking it one way or the other, depending on whether the axle is engaging or disengaging. The diaphragm is connected to the end of the shaft that the shift fork is attached to, thus moving the fork along with it. The problem with this system generally lies in the vacuum lines themselves. Over time, the lines harden and crack and dry rot. The older the vehicle, the more likely this will happen. As cracks form, air leaks soon follow, lowering the amount of vacuum pressure that is in the lines. After a certain point, there is no longer enough pressure to move the diaphragm, thus causing leaving the fork motionless. More often then not this is problem with the system. Included below is a diagram of the 4wd vacuum system.






Other possible problems:
The shift motor itself has been known to fail in much the same manner as the vacuum lines. Cracks in the diaphragm as well as rust and corrosion of the casing all lead to air leaks. A new shift motor runs about $50-80 at www.quadratec.com depending on the year of the jeep.

Another common problem is the vacuum switch on the transfer case. Over time dirt can build up inside it, causing it to fail. This can be replaced for about $25.

How to know if it’s the vacuum system:
Usually the best indicator of this is the fact that the 4wd dash indicator light no longer works. The light is switched on and off by the same vacuum that moves the shift fork. If the light is not coming on and your front wheels aren’t turning under power, there is a good chance it’s the vacuum system.

The Posi-Lok (Posi-lock) System:
Often confused with a differential locker, the posi-lok kit is simply a manual system for moving the 4wd shift fork that replaces the vacuum system. A cable is attached to a handle inside the cab and routed through the firewall down to a modified housing that replaces the housing holding the shift motor on the axle. To engage 4wd, the user places the transfer case in 4 hi or low, and pulls the handle, moving the shift fork to couple the two piece axle shaft. This eliminates totally the need for any vacuum pressure to be present at either the case or the axle, making it a much more efficient system, less prone to failure.

Cost:
Though marketed at about $200 dollars, the posi-lok can often be found on sale for $180, and sometimes even $160. Ebay may yield even better results. Run searches in the Shopping sections of the more popular search engines and you’ll find many dealers and will be able to sort by lowest price first. Just be sure it is meant for Jeeps as there are many trucks/SUV’s out there that use a similar system and Posi-Lok offers different kits for most of them. At this time, Jeeps use the 9000 series. For the DIY people, there have been write-ups on making your own cable system using bicycle shifters and miscellaneous parts. One such write-up can be found here: http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm There may be others out there. Search for them on the net.


Installation Tips (Posi-lok Kit):
For the most part, the instructions included with the kit are self explanatory. The only tricky part is the removal of the shift fork from the motor housing. There are three e-clips that hold the fork to the shaft of the motor and can be very difficult to remove. I highly recommend purchasing a new fork (quadratec has them for ~$15, though there are two different models depending on the year of the jeep. 87-90 use part number 52430.00 and 91-95 use 52430.01) prior to installing the kit, as then the stock setup can be retained and rebuilt incase of problems with the system. A second fork also saves time and aggravation on the install, and will not show signs of wear as the old fork may. More often then not, the fork wears where it attaches to the motor shaft and will flop back and forth on the new shaft, causing problems during engagement. Better to have a new fork on hand before you find that this is the case for your jeep, forcing you to wait several days while you order a new one. Other then this, the installation is very straight forward and can be accomplished in a few hours, by yourself with only common hand tools. The only thing you will need that might not be common is a 5/8” drill bit, and a drill big enough to hold it (most cordless drills are limited to 3/8” chucks. The 5/8” bit will likely require a 1/2” chuck).
__________________
RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood

Last edited by sentinal02; 01-28-2004 at 11:39 PM..
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Unread 01-28-2004, 11:32 PM   #3
sentinal02
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 6,688
Body Lifts:
Body lifts are often the first mod done to a Jeep, mainly because they allow the owner to fit larger tires for less money. However, there are several pros and cons to this mod that should be known first:

Pros:
- Cheap (yeah, you knew that already)
- Relatively easy install (assuming nothing goes wrong)
- Can be used later on with a Suspension lift for further clearance.

Cons:
- Knowing how tall is too tall. For the most part, a 2” BL is the maximum any serious off-roader will consider. This is because that a BL puts a lot more stress on the body mounts then was ever intended by the manufacturer. Normally some of the weight of the tub rests on the frame rails. The lift pucks raise the tub off the rails, putting all the weight on the mounts. The older the jeep, the more likely these mounts will break. 3” BL’s are over doing it for off road use because the higher the lift, the more likely the body is to shift on inclines. Combine these two factors and breakage is common with higher lifts.
- Installation considerations. For higher lifts, it sometimes is necessary to drop the radiator and fan shroud to eliminate clearance problems with the motor fan. Transfer case drops may be needed to account for the increased angle of the rear drive shaft which can result in unpleasant driveline vibrations. The tub may have to be cut around the shift levers to allow the levers to fall into 2nd, 4th and reverse gears as well as 4 low. A gap will be noticeable between the body and frame, affecting the jeeps aesthetic value. Most lift kits will address some if not all of these issues. Know what you’re getting and be ready to factor this into the total cost of the mod.
- Does nothing to increase your ground clearance without larger tires, and does not increase frame ground clearance at all.

For the most part, a 1” lift is considered acceptable for all types of off-roading, and a 2” will generally hold up fine. Stay away from 3” if you even think you might go off road.

One other thing to think about when considering a body lift is the actual installation. Broken mount bolts/nuts are the most common occurrence when doing a body lift. The Jeep has 11 bolts that must be removed in order to raise the tub, and each one is held in by a nut that is welded to the frame. On older jeeps (yes 95 is still nine years old!) these welds can get very rusty. Trying to turn the bolts often snaps the welds and results in the nut spinning where you can’t get a wrench on it. Be prepared to cut the body to get at some of these if this happens to you. Broken or stripped bolts are another common problem. A drill, some bolt extractors, and taps are extremely useful to have around if you’re planning a BL.

Other Ways to Clear Bigger Tires:
Shackle lifts are another common lift option for the new jeep owner. Again, knowing what length is too long is the key to this lift. If the shackles are too long, the handling of the jeep will be thrown off, resulting in dangerous bump steer; as well as a decrease in approach and departure angles. Again, most off-roaders stop at 1 inch. Certain suspension lifts require slightly extended shackles for clearance reasons, so a small shackle lift is often a good starting point for a lifted jeep.

Suspension lifts are by far the most efficient way to clear larger tires. Most kits come with stronger then stock components and will handle the abuse of off road use much better. A suspension lift raises the entire jeep, frame, engine, drive train, and body except for the axles. This will increase the ground clearance of all the jeep’s components except for the differentials, thus make it much more effective than either the shackle or body lift. The ONLY way to increase your minimum ground clearance is to run a larger diameter tire, as the differential is the part of the jeep closest to the ground. Old Man Emu (OME) suspension lifts are considered the smoothest riding lift kits, and thus the most expensive. BDS and Skyjacker are the most commonly used kits and pretty much accepted as the most cost effective when balancing handling/ride quality to cost.

One other way to clear larger tires is fender trimming in conjunction with fender flares. Since lifting a jeep increases its center of gravity, it makes it more prone to rollovers and tipping. Off-road, this can be big trouble on steep inclines. Being able to run larger tires without affecting the COG too much is ideal. To do that, material must be removed from the tub to all larger tires to fit in the wheel wells. TJ fender flares are often used to help cover this cutting action, as well as other aftermarket flares. The amount of material you are willing to cut away will determine how large a tire you can run, but for the most part new flares can net you up to 2 inches of extra clearance. Flare sets can be purchased for about $100.
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Unread 05-12-2004, 04:03 PM   #4
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Gas in the Engine

4.2 engine:

If you pull out your dipstick and discover gasoline on it, the most common problem is the Fuel Pump.

The 4.2 comes with a mechanical fuel pump, that is to say the pump operates by a lever on the pump being moved up and down inside the engine. As these pumps age, the seals that keep the gas flowing into the carb and not the engine begin to wear out. They can wear to a point where the pump actually begins allowing gasoline to enter the engine. Gasoline causes extreme wear on an engine because it acts as a degreaser, not a lubricant.

What to do if you notice gasoline in the engine:
Stop Driving! Or limit driving to going to the auto parts store. New fuel pumps of similiar style can be had for under $30. Please note the direction the fuel inlet lays as they will ask you this. Also pick up at least two new oil filters and enough oil to do at least two oil changes (6 quarts per change).

The pump is very easy to replace. It sits on the passenger side of the engine right in front of the distributor. Pull off the fuel lines to the pump. Undo the 1/2" bolts holding the pump inplace and pull the pump off and out of the engine. Carefully clean the surface where the new pump will go. Install the new pump with gasket (included with pump) by threading in bolts and reconnecting the fuel lines.

Now do an oil and filter change. Start the engine and let it run until gets warm. Then give it a few minutes and do another oil change. If you are the parranoid type do another change in a week or so. This should ensure most of the gas is out of your engine.

The other option is to replace the fuel pump with an electric one, such as the Holley 72gph. You can buy a cap to go where the old pump was.
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Unread 06-07-2004, 02:26 AM   #5
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FAQ - Spares and Tools for Trips

A recent thread on what spares are most useful to carry on a YJ for extended trips lead to this extensive list. Pick and choose according to your circumstances.

There are actually two lists of spares: one a shorter version of the other (due to weight, cost and space issues).

The third list is of useful tools.

And the fourth list is for emergency and safety, included because it's too important not to mention, although it is not specific to YJs.

FYI, the parts are referenced to Quadratec, the prices from June 2004, and the specs are for a '93 4.0 I6.




LIST #1 - LIGHTDUTY YJ SPARES and TRAIL FIXES
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

a) General:

1. One 6" garden hose (for 4x4 vacuum failure: move shift fork and use to keep the fork from pulling back)
2. Fuel Pump (Quadratec #51305.11 $107.95)

b) Suspension:

1. U bolt (connects leaf springs to axle)
2. Centering Pin for springs (the bolt that goes straight through the center of the leaf pack)
3. Tie Rod Assembly (between the front knuckles, Quadratec #56117.03 $52.95)
4. drag link (from the pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle)
5. Ball Joint Kit (Quadratec, upper & lower, either side, #56100.00 $49.95)

c) Front Axle Dana 30:

1. U-Joint Assembly (Quadratec #52302.03 $15.95)
2. U Joint Assembly for driveshaft (Quadratec #52302.00 $10.95x2)
3. Pinion Yoke (connects driveshaft to differential, Quadratec #52425.04 34.95; strap and bolt kit #52303.00 $6.25x2)

d) Rear Axle Dana 35c:

1. Pinion Yoke (connects driveshaft to differential, Quadratec #52425.03 $25.95; strap and bolt #52303.00 $6.95)
2. U Joint Assembly (Quadratec #52302.00 $10.95)

d) Engine:

1. Serpentine Belt (Quadratec, A/C and Pwr Steering #51213.04 $20.95)
2. Tune-Up Kit: oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, wire set, distributor cap, fuel filter, and rotor (Quadratec #55126.002 $59.95)
3. Radiator Hose (Quadratec Lower #51207.07 $12.95; Upper ?)
4. Water Pump (Quadratec #51212.10 $59.95; gasket #51205.01 $1.75)

Approx. Total $ 450




LIST #2 - COMPLETE HEAVYDUTY YJ SPARES and TRAIL FIXES
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

a) General:

1. One 6" garden hose (for 4x4 vacuum failure: move shift fork and use to keep the fork from pulling back)
2. u joint of every type on your jeep (2 d/s joints)
3. Head Lamp – Halogen (Quadratec #97000.401 $9.95)
4. Fuel Pump (Quadratec #51305.11 $107.95)

b) Suspension:

1. U bolt (connects leaf springs to axle, Quadratec #?)
2. Centering Pin for springs (the bolt that goes straight through the center of the leaf pack)
3. Tie Rod Assembly (between the front knuckles, Quadratec #56117.03 $52.95)
4. drag link (from the pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle)
5. Ball Joint Kit (Quadratec, upper & lower, either side, #56100.00 $49.95)

c) Front Axle Dana 30:

1. Axle Shaft Assembly driver’s side (Quadratec # 52400.10 $157.95)
2. Axle Shaft Intermediate driver’s side (Quadratec #52402.01 $104.95; outer oil seal #52420.18 $5.25; bearing between axle shaft and intermediate shaft #52406.11 $2.05)
3. Axle Shaft Assembly passenger’s side (Quadratec #52400.04 $179.95; inner oil seal #52420.12 $4.25)
4. U-Joint Assembly (Quadratec #52302.03 $15.95)
5. U Joint Assembly for driveshaft (Quadratec #52302.00 $10.95x2)
6. Pinion Yoke (connects driveshaft to differential, Quadratec #52425.04 34.95; strap and bolt kit #52303.00 $6.25x2)

d) Rear Axle Dana 35c:

1. Axle Shaft driver’s side (Quadratec # 52403.13 $173.95; axle seal #52420.21 $6.50; bearing #52406.07 $15.95)
2. Axle Shaft passenger’s side (Quadratec #52403.14 $173.95; axle seal #52420.21 $6.50; bearing #52406.07 $15.95)
3. Driveshaft (Quadratec #52301.10 $279.95)
4. Pinion Yoke (connects driveshaft to differential, Quadratec #52425.03 $25.95; strap and bolt #52303.00 $6.95)
5. U Joint Assembly (Quadratec #52302.00 $10.95)
6. Spider gears in case locker takes a dump

d) Engine:

1. Serpentine Belt (Quadratec, A/C and Pwr Steering #51213.04 $20.95)
2. Tune-Up Kit: oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, wire set, distributor cap, fuel filter, and rotor (Quadratec #55126.002 $59.95)
3. Radiator Hose (Quadratec Lower #51207.07 $12.95; Upper ?)
4. Water Pump (Quadratec #51212.10 $59.95; gasket #51205.01 $1.75)

Approx. Total $ 3,600



LIST #3 - YJ TOOLS and CONSUMABLES
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

1. ATF, Gear Oil, Motor Oil, Brake Fluid, 1 gal of pre-mixed radiator fluid
2. Radiator repair kit (stop leak fluid and rad-patch compound)
3. JB weld or similar cold weld epoxy compound
4. welding rod
5. tyre repair kit and extra valve
6. 3/8" sockets including spark plug socket
7. 1/2" breaker bar, impact socket, and a couple feet of cheater bar
8. standard and Phillips screwdrivers
9. set of Torx keys
10. battery jumper cables
11. fuses
12. electrical tape and wire
13. plastic ties, duct tape and metal wire
14. two c-clamps (useful to keep suspension leaves together while fixing u-bolt or centering pin)
15. hose clamps (can be carried right on the existing hoses)
17. u joint press
18. adjustable spanner small and large
19. set of open wrenches
20. rags/towels and hand cleaner
21. large garbage bags and empty plastic tank (to carry out used fluids)
22. ptblaster and wd40
23. multi-meter tester
24. BFH (Big Friggin Hammer)
25. 30 mm socket for t-case plugs
26. 36 mm socket for D30 hub nuts
27. RTV silicone
28. ratchet straps
29. small length of chain and binder
30. Craftsman Bolt-Out kit or similar. (no more worries about stripped out hex heads)
31. spare nuts and bolts in assorted sizes
32. 4-5” vice (to get a grip on stuff, e.g.: your tie rod to straighten it out, or have to change your u-joints. If you have a 2" receiver, make or have someone else make a plate for the vise so that it will slide into the receiver)
33. any specialty tools needed for your rig (to suit your set-up, e.g.: warn hub socket)



LIST #4 - SAFETY and RECOVERY EQUIPMENT
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

1. First aid kit, fire extinguisher and survival kit
2. Hi lift jack with a 1 ft by 1 ft board to put the base on (so it won't sink in the sand) and hilift repair kit
3. tyre iron or 4 way lug wrench
3. 10 tonne Snatch\recovery strap and tow rope with removable shackles
4. CB and mobile phone with cig socket power adaptor
5. GPS and map of the area
6. fuel siphon tube (thin tube with hand pump to transfer fuel from one tank to the other)
7. bright plastic tarp (for shelter, signaling, etc.)
8. air source for inflating tires (strong enough to seat a bead)
9. large survival knife with numerous doohickeys
10. high quality flashlight
11. foldable or full-size shovel
12. inform people who are not going of trip details (destination, scheduled return, planned route, etc)
13. other necessities to suit conditions (weather, distance, terrain, medical conditions, etc)
---
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Unread 08-30-2004, 01:18 AM   #6
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Posts: 1,468
Self-diagnostic codes: How to obtain and interpret.

This will be going into the YJ faqs sticky topic for your convenience.
This topic ONLY applies to 91-95 YJ's.

Self-diagnostic codes can be obtained from your 91-95 YJ by simply inserting the key into the ignition. Turn the key to the on position (when the lights on the dash come on) then off, on, off, and on. It has been said that you need to go through key cycle in less than 5 seconds.
Now that you have cycled the key on, off, on, off, on, the check engine light will begin to flash. One flash a short pause and two flashes indicates a code 12, three flashes, a short pause, and three flashes indicate a code 33. There will longer pauses between codes when there are multiple fault codes.
If your check engine light will not come on it's fairly common that it's because the bulb is burned out. In that case just remove the guage cluster and replace the CEL bulb with the bulb for the seatbelt reminder.

When you determine what codes are stored in the computer you must disconnect the battery for a minute or so after you have completed the repair so that the code will be erased from the computers memory. If you don't do it the motor will still run badly because the computer will still think there is a problem even though the check engine light is not on.
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Unread 08-30-2004, 01:45 AM   #7
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Part II.

Go and buy a Haynes, Chiltons, or Factory Service Manual! They will save you a ton of money on most repairs and the codes are listed in them.
Here are the codes as listed in Chiltons.

11 No crank reference signal at PCM

12 Battery disconnect

13 No change in MAP from start to run

14 MAP sensor voltage too low or too high

15 No vehicle speed (distance) sensor signal

17 Engine is cold too long (thermostat stuck open)

21 O2S stays at center or O2S shorted to voltage

22 ECT sensor voltage too high or too low (engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty)

23 Intake air temp sensor voltage too low or too high

24 Throttle position sensor voltage too high or too low

25 Idle air control motor circuits

27 Injector control circuit

33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit

34 Speed control solenoid circuit or switch voltage

41 Generator field not switching properly

42 Auto shutdown relay control circuit

44 Battery temp sensor volts out of limits

46 Charging system voltage too high

47 Charging system voltage too low

51 O2S signal stays below center (lean)

52 O2S signal stays above center (rich)

53 Internal PCM failure or PCM failure SPI communiations

54 No cam sync signal at PCM

55 Completion of diagnostic code display

62 PCM failure SPI miles not stored

63 PCM failure EEPROM write denied
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Unread 08-09-2005, 10:07 AM   #8
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What is all of this talk of Savvily designed products?

Last edited by ErikJordan; 02-19-2007 at 09:22 PM..
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Unread 10-02-2005, 04:36 PM   #9
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Posts: 57
Speedo Error Calculator

http://www.paspeedo.com/calculator.htm

there is one, dont know if anyone needed this or just wanted one as a rough guide as to how that last speeding ticket came about..
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Unread 11-06-2005, 12:15 PM   #10
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Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,879
Just adding to the FAQ
Painting a hard-top:

Preparation of the top is key to a good paint-job. Using paints specificially designed for use on fibreglass (found at boat repair shops) is the best. When preparing the hardtop, spend some time lightly sanding it down and filling in any chips you might find.

Cleaning with acetone to remove waxes and polishes before painting is a great choice. There are other pre-paint cleansers available as well. You may wish to look into them from the paint supply store. Prices might be higher than for acetone.

Painting with fibreglass paint is easy to do. Place the hardtop into a well-ventilated room that is dust free. Mask off the areas you do not wish to paint (hinges, windows, etc) and then paint like any other autobody part - many smooth passes and not allowing the paint to run between the coats. Lightly sand the top between coats and clean the dust off as well.

Using DIY (Do It Yourself) roll-on box-liner is another option. Follow the instructions with the kit for protecting the box of a pickup truck for sanding, cleaning and applying the product. Two coats will normally be enough.
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Unread 04-25-2006, 08:22 AM   #11
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Info Provided By mississippi_xj

8.8 INFORMATION

Here we go with some parts and info I have been gathering for the 8.8 swap.... Some replacemnt parts/adapter style parts....

-------------------------------------------------

Replacement brake pads (P/N 6674, AutoZone) =$39.99

Replacement Calipers (P/N's C576 &C577, AutoZone)

Replacement Guide pins (2 - H15068, AutoZone)

Replacement Banjo bolts (Ford P/N 385116-S2)

Replacement Hoses (2 - NAPA P/N 380376 & 380528 )=$51.79 E-brake cables (Mopar P/N's 52008904 & 05)

Replacement "T" Hose (P/N 380889, NAPA)

Replacement 2 - Hard Brake Lines(NAPA P/N 813-1208 & 813-1204 )=$6.73

Yoke Adapter (Spicer P/N 2-2-1379, NAPA) I SUSPECT THIS IS CHEAPER THAN @ THE ONLINE SOURCES....

You can also get the 1310 ujoint yoke for the ranger 8.8 (bolt to the explorer 8.8) from a ford dealership for around $28. I had a friend check on this yesterday.

There is also a 1310/1330 combo ujoint floating around out there. Neapco # 1-0134. It is available from rubicon outfitters for $21.95 RE1823
(does anyone happen to have a napa part number for this?)

Replacement Yoke bolts (Ford P/N N800594-S100) I belieft these are 12mm 1.5" grade 5 bolts..... not certain though

Now I figure that the yoke adapter from ford and napa are probably the same part number and will make the 8.8 as close to bolt in as it can get.

The explorer 8.8 will have the 1330 ujoint yoke on it. same as on the cryco 8.25 rear found on the xj's. You could use the 1310/1330 adapter joint to just mate the factory yj shaft to the 8.8 then....

Here is stuff I found in the google cashe of the tj section of JU.

Ford 8.8 specs:
Weight (complete assembly w/ brakes etc.): 174 lb.
Drivers side Ford brake hose #: F5TZ-2282-A
Passenger side brake hose #: XL2Z-2282-AA
Bolt size (U-joint flange to yoke) is: 12 x 1.75 x 30 mm

Axle shaft Strength and output torque rating by Warn and 4 Wheeler
(thanks joe and Chile99.)

The axle shaft strength (tested by Warn Ind.) is as follows:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

Measurements:
O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800".
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30.
Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31.
Rotor thickness (where it mounts to axle is .250").
Overall width* 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35).
Hole diameter for ABS sensor in top of housing: .811".
Centerline of housing to C/L of pinion difference is 3.875" toward the P/S.
Pinion offset: P/S to C/L of Pinion, 27-3/4" (no rotor on axle), D/S to C/L of Pinion, 31-5/8" (no rotor on axle). (this measurement is 2.5" more offset to the P/S then a TJ Dana 35).

*Explorer & Mountaineer.
(The F-150 8.8 is drum brake and width WMS to WMS is 65.5”.)


Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential

Thanks Chris Overacker for the specs and measurements! see his website link below.

How many splines are the axle shafts? Standard axle shaft for drivers side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 30-1/2 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern.

Standard axle shaft for passenger side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 27-5/8 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern

Can I get 35 spline shafts? Yes

Do I need a slip yoke eliminator? In my opinion, yes

Can I use my drive shaft that I bought for my SYE/Dana 35 set-up? Yes

Is the 8.8 narrower than a Dana 35? Yes but not enough to make a difference when running most aftermarket wheels.1.5" shorter or so. It doesn't matter unless you try running stock rims w/12.5 or wider tires.

Are the 8.8 shafts stronger than Dana 44 shafts? Yes, also the bearings, pinion and ring gear are also much larger.

Will I need that brake proportioning valve "thingey" from a Rubicon? Maybe

Does the 8.8 offer more ground clearance over the Dana 35 and 44? Not under the differential but the bigger axle tubes lift the rig about 5/8 ". (soa rigs here guys... opposite on sua rigs...)

Is there welding involved? Yes, but the new brackets you put on are much stronger than stock Dana’s.

Where do I get brackets? TeraFlex, M.O.R.E., Rubicon Express (to name a few).

Should I weld the axle tubes to the cast housing? I would if it had been salvaged from a wrecked rig. If it is new on a crate (in my opinion) don’t bother.

Will my stock sway bar work? Yes, with a minor modification to a pinion gusset.

Do all 8.8s come with a limited slip? No, read the tag on the housing or remove the cover.

Where is the gear break for lockers? There is no break. Same locker for 3.73 to 6.14

Do I need a notched cross pin? Yes for 4.56-5.13 to clear ring gear (unsure about lower gears)

What year ford explorers do I look for as a donor for 31 spline and disc brakes? 1995 to 2001.

What is so great about 8.8? Parts are everywhere, as in axle shafts, covers, brake parts etc..

What's not so great about the 8.8? Weak stock carrier, replace with a carrier type locker like ARB or Detroit (not a lunch box type) this will cure the problem.

Spun axle tubes: Simply weld the tubes into the diff housing before they spin. You are welding to cast steel so now would be the time to ask for a professional's opinion. I have heard of guys tossing the works in a oven before welding, some just go at it cold. Both say their way is right.

Thin stock diff cover: Get some armor.

(my axle was new surplus and had not been in a collision, i know exactly where it has been from mile one and it is not welded. I dont believe my wheeling style will cause me problems, however i do keep a close eye on the plug welds.)

What kind of locker can I get? Anything like a spool, mini spool, Detroit, ARB, Eaton limited slip….

What is the bolt pattern? 5 on 4.5” just like stock TJ/YJ wheels.

Will my Jeep lug nuts fit the 8.8? In most cases, yes.

What do I do with the speed sensor? leave it in place.

Where to buy? Car-part.com www.ok4wd.com wallysheata, Ariel Performance, www.alljeep.com http://www.rockequipment.com to name a few.

How much do they cost? Free to $1500.00 but you can find them new for around $500.00 in their stock form complete disc to disc.

What do I need for a swap into a tj?
Here are some things I used:

TeraFlex Bracket kit $200.00
ARB $630.00
U.S. Gears 4.56 $185.96
Master install kit (Timken) $89.00
Crane diff cover $190.00
Napa brake line kit P/N 380528 $17.49 (x2)
T-hose NAPA P/N 380889 $29.99
ZJ E-brake cables Mopar P/N 52008904 & 52008905 $23.00 (x2) (for TJs only)
Driveshaft adapter: Spicer 2-2-1379 $32.86 there is more information in the later pages of this thread about these adapters. i will put the info here soon
Flange bolts Ford P/N N800594-S100 $1.29 (x4)
'03 TJ Rubicon (w/disc) proportioning valve P/N 5083808AA $74.00
3/16" hard brake line 60" (40"?) & 18" $5.00

Here are some locker prices Joe found.
$690.48 ARB SELECTABLE AIR LOCKER
$342.69 AUBURN GEAR - HIGH PERFORMANCE LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
$424.22 AUBURN GEAR - PRO SERIES LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
$535.72 DETROIT LOCKER
$229.59 E-Z LOCKER - FITS IN FACTORY NON-POSI CASE
$641.96 EATON - ELOCKER SELECTABLE LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL
$388.20 EATON - POSI LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
$209.04 FULL SPOOL - 31 SPLINE - STEEL
$118.46 MINI SPOOL - 31 SPLINE - C-CLIP COMPATIBLE - STEEL
$47.04 MODIFIED CROSS SHAFT
$160.20 OPEN DIFFERENTIAL BARECASE
$188.14 OPEN DIFFERENTIAL BARECASE
$348.40 ORIGINAL STYLE POSI - COMPLETE
$49.83 POSI CLUTCH PACK KIT - FACTORY/FMS/FRP POSI
$261.52 POWERTRAX - LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER - FITS IN FACTORY NON-POSI CASE
$95.46 SPIDER GEAR KIT - OPEN 87 & LATER, 31 SPLINE
$381.94 TRUTRAC LIMITED-SLIP

Helpful sites:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/8.8axle/8.8axle-1.htm Stu Olson's site
http://home.earthlink.net/~jetmanjay/id6.html Dome & Detour
http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/88swap.html
http://www.dpgoffroad.com/tech/8.8.htm
http://www.code4x4.com/projects/axle_88/axle_88.html Chris Overacker's site
http://www.macamar.com/sitefiles/fo...ap/AxleSwap.htm Stormtrooper
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/

Ranger Station pages here. Thanks Dan-H:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
http://www.therangerstation.com/tec...xplorer8_8.html

YJ & XJ STUFF:

From M.O.R.E.
-XJ Installation Kit P/N 98600 84-2001 XJ $165.00
-XJ E-Brake Cable Kit P/N EB3 Disc Brake F8.8 Only $118.00
-Special Yoke P/N 221379 F8.8 to 1310 U-Joint $40.00

From Dealership:
-Mopar spring perches $12.00
-Tabs for shock mounts $5.00
-ZJ ebrake cables from the dealer (for XJ install) $65.00
-Flange from spicer dealer $30 (have seen this go from $20-$50)
__________________
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What is all of this talk of Savvily designed products?
ErikJordan is offline  
Unread 06-06-2006, 01:03 PM   #12
Why J?
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Knoxville Tn
Posts: 3,437
Does your Jeep sound like a diesel?? what to fix it???

Well, a few weeks back, 2000 miles ago. I decided that I was sick and tired of all the noise my engine was making. I decided to throw a little bit into it to see if I could fix it before I decided to just replace it with a long block. NO hurt in trying, I have the same diesel sound every one else has at idle, with the really fun lifter tick. Not just 1 but probably 2 or 3. Really gets on my nerves. So I started doing some reading and what I found was that most of my noise has to do with the upper end, not any knocks form the bottom end. If you have knocking form the bottom end you haver a whole other set of problems.

So I found out that alot of the noise comes from the valves slapping against the head. The only way for this to happen is for the rockers to be out of adjustment. In a jeep we run hydraulic lifters so there isn't any back lash to adjust. The only adjustment that is available is in the lifter it self. That is the whole point of the hydraulic lifter, to take up any changes in the system.

So the only thing to do now is to pull the lifters to see what was going on. I pulled the first to check them out. They were very dirty and all gummed up with carbon and oil sludge, I also checked the bottoms of them for wear, the bottoms are suppose to be cupped out so that when the cam (which is not flat but ever so slightly angled) passes by it will spin the lifter in the bore.

Mine were now concave, no cup and no spin. Also I took a couple of measurements and they were a little short compared with the new ones. Which explains the valve clatter. I had already bought a new cam and lifters to compare mine too. These were going to need to be replaced. Well if you have even looked into replacing lifters it's about a 60/40- split on rather or not you need to replace the cam. The idea is that they both wear together, and by just replacing one or just the other the whole thing will explode. With that being said the metal use to make lifters is a lot softer than that use to make cams, so I will say that for the money the lifters wears to the cam not the other way around, and by the condition of my lifters and cam. That was certainly the case here.

I am not one to believe anything with out proof and no one could give me that, so I decided I would find out for my self. I pulled the cam which was a lot easier than i thought it would be, took a few measurements with my micro meters and compared that with the new one, pretty darn close if not exactly the same in all respects. The cam had not siuffered the amount of wear that teh lifters did, which leads me to believe that my previousl conclusion was correct, so I reinstalled it. Dropped in the new lifters and fired her up. Of course everythng had a very nice think coating of engine builders lube.

At first the noise was 120 times worse but it's suppose to. The oil has not built up the hydraulic pressure in the lifter yet. The best thing to do is to start her up and then rev it to 2000 rpm for 5 minutes. If you don't you could burn up the cam and new lifters.

The noise very quickly went away and now my engine sounds like new no more little noises through out the range, throttle response is much improved, at idle you can barely tell it's running. I was very impressed, all that noise over just those little lifters. Very, very quite I was very suprised to say the least.

As mentioned earlier that was 2000 miles ago, this Saturday I pulled the lifters and cam again, lifters still look new, cam looks great as well, with no signs of all the scaring and destruction that I was suppose to encounter. I plan on pulling the cam every 2000 miles over the next 10000 miles to get a full idea, but from this I can say very confidently that this fix is fine, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, it has been one of the easiest and most rewarding things that I have done to my Jeep. She is as quiet as a school mouse now and runs better than ever.

Now I am sure that there are those of you out there that will say that you have to replace the cam. This is the whole point to me posting this from what I have read, not just what I heard from some guy somewhere, and from my actual experience. This has not been the case as I believe that it would not be for most of you. I also changed the oil after the first 500 miles to get any meterial that may have come off of the lifters but of cource I did not find anything, I also had an analysts done on the oil and there wasn't any more contanimation in the oil form before the change to after. Cirrently a samplke of my oil is beoing tested right now and I will post up the out come.

Now this is a very easy job if you can pull a valve cover and read a torque wrench, but you will need to rent a lifter puller. I ended up buying one from napa, the heavy duty one. Any one that is intrested I can get the part number for ya.

(edit: I wanted to add that i have been fighting with this thing for 3 or 4 years and have tried every addititive out there and every trick in the book. If something did work it was very temporary if even at all.)
__________________
New Project "Pissed Wife"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-pissed-wife-747535/
Phase II 5.3L/4L60e then NV3550
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...stall-1400506/
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Unread 05-23-2007, 08:49 PM   #13
Ares
Registered User
1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ellensburg/Redmond, WA
Posts: 1,363
Axle Information Writeup/Thread

I've been seeing a lot of questions regarding axle strength, U-joints, tire size, etc etc. I found that theres a lot of info out there, but it can be hard to put it all together and sometimes hard to find. So, I've taken a little reasearch, a nice artical provided by JP Magazine and a few websites to help out a bit. Here is some axle information: (Note, most Dana axle spec information is given for Jeep application axles, spec information for other manufacturers may vary [i.e. Chevy axle width, stock gearing, etc])


FRONT AXLES
D27 Front Axle:
Full Floating
Vehicles: '66-'71 CJ-5 and CJ-6; '63-'70 Wagoneer; '67-'71 C-101 Jeepster
Ring Gear: 7.2"
Stock Gearing:
Axleshaft Spline: 10
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.13"
Axle Joint: Spicer 260X
Knuckle: Closed
Brakes: Drum 10" 11"
Weakness: Weak axle for upgrades, low spline count, weak carrier
Width: 51" (CJ and Jeepster), 57.5" (Wagoneer)
Wheel Bolt: 5x5.5"
Max Recommended Tire Size: 31"

D30 Front Axle:
Full/Semi Floating
Vehicles: From ’72 CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7, CJ-8, YJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, C104, WJ
Ring Gear: 7.125”, 7.33” (TJ/WJ Only)
Stock Gearing: 3.07, 3.54 (3.55), 3.73, 4.10 (4.11)
Axleshaft Spline: 27
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.16”, 1.193” (TJ/WJ Only)
Axle Joint: Spicer 260X (pre ’95.5), Spicer 297/760X (post ’95.5), CV & 760 U-Joint (TJ/WJ)
Knuckle: Open
Brakes: Drum 11” (pre ’76), Disc (post ’76)
Weakness: 260X U-joint; YJ Vacuum motor fails; standard CV problems
Width: 51” (’72-’75 CJ, C-104), 53” (’76-’81 CJ), 56” (’82-’86 CJ), 60.5” (TJ, YJ, XJ, WJ)
Wheel Bolt: 5x5.5” (CJ/C-104), 5x4.5” (others)
Max Recommended Tire Size: 35”

AAM 790 Front Axle
Semi Floating
Vehicles: '05 and later WK
Ring Gear: 7.87"
Stock Gearing:
Axleshaft Spline:
Axleshaft Diameter:
Axleshaft Joint: CV
Knuckle: Open
Brakes: Disc
Weakness: Limited modification ability, small ring gear
Width:
Wheel Bolt:
Max Recommended Tire Size: 32"

D44 Front Axle:
Full/Semi Floating
Vehicles: ’57-’65 FC-170; ’63-’70 Gladiator; '67-'79 1/2 & 3/4 Ton Ford Pickups; ’71-’87 J-Series; ’71-’91 Wagoneer; '72-'93 1/2 & 3/4 Ton Dodge Pickups; '73-'79 1/2 & 3/4 Ton Chevy Pickups; ’74-’83 Cherokee; ’03-’06 Rubicon
Ring Gear: 8.5”
Stock Gearing: Many
Axleshaft Spline: 19 (pre ’71), 30 (post ’71)
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.25” (19 spline), 1.31” (30 spline)
Axle Joint: Spicer 206X (pre ’73), Spicer 297/760C (post ’73)
Knuckle: Closed (pre ’73), Open (post ’73)
Brakes: Drum 11” (pre ’73), Disc (post ’73)
Weakness: 260X and 19 spline axleshafts
Width: 63” (FC-170), 57.5” (’71-’73 Wagoneer), 59” (’74 and later Wagoneer), 65.5” (J-Series), 60.5” (Rubicon), Full Width (Ford, Dodge, Chevy)
Wheel Bolt: (Varies)
Max Recommended Tire Size: 37”

D60 Front Axle:
Full Floating
Vehicles: ‘67-’69 Kaiser M-715; ‘72-‘93 3/4 & 1 Ton Dodge Pickups; ‘74-‘77 3/4 Ton Ford Pickups; ‘77-‘87 3/4 & 1 Ton Chevy Pickups; ‘78-‘79 1 Ton Ford Pickups
Ring Gear: 9.75”
Stock Gearing: 4.10, 4.56
Axleshaft Spline: 30
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.31”
Axle Joint: Unknown Spicer
Knuckle: Closed
Brakes: Drum 13”
Weakness: Metallurgically axleshafts inferior to modern metals
Width: 72.5” (M-715), Full Width (Ford, Dodge and Chevy)
Wheel Bolt: 6x8.25”
Max Recommended Tire Size: 42”


REAR AXLES
D35 Rear Axle:
Semi-floating (’85-’89), C-clip (’90 and later)
Vehicles: Most XJ; YJ; TJ (except Rubicon); ZJ; some WJ
Ring Gear: 7.562”
Stock Gearing: 3.07, 3.54 (3.55), 3.73, 4.10 (4.11)
Axleshaft Spline: 27
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.13”
Brakes: Drum 11”; Disc (later ZJ/WJ)
Weakness: Weak carrier & axleshafts
Width: 60.5”
Wheel Bolt: 5x4.5”
Max Recommended Tire Size: 33”

D44 Rear Axle:
Semi Floating
Vehicles (here we go…*long breath*): ’49-’65 6cyl Willy Wagons; ’49.5-’53 CJ-3A; ’53-’68 CJ-3B; ’50-’52 M-38; ’52-’57 M-38A1; ’53-’57 M-170; ’55-’75 CJ-5 & CJ-6; ’85.5-’86 CJ-7; ’58-’65 FC-150; ’57-’65 FC-170; ’63-’70 Wagoneer & Gladiator Pickup; ’67-’71 C-101 Jeepster; ’72-’73 C-104; ’71-’75 Wagoneer & ½-ton J-Series; ’74-’83 Cherokee; ’87-’91 Grand Wagoneer; Some ’86-’92 XJ and MJ; Some ’97-’06 TJ; ’99-’04 WJ; ’96-’98 ZJ
Ring Gear: 8.5”, 8.9” (WJ only )
Stock Gearing: Many, including 3.55, 3.73, 4.11
Axleshaft Spline: 10 (’49-’55), 19 (’56-’70.5), 30 (’70.5 and later)
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.193” (WJ/ZJ) 1.25” (10 and 19 Spline), 1.31 (30 Spline)
Brakes: Drum 9”, 10”, 11”; Disc (Rubicon, ZJ, WJ)
Weakness: 10 & 19 Spline, Some aluminum housings.
Width: 50.5” (up to ’75 CJ, FC, C-101, C-104), 54.5” (’85-’86 CJ), 57.5” (’63-’73 Wagoneer), 60.5” (XJ, MJ, TJ, ZJ, WJ), 65.5” (FSJ Cherokee, J-Series)
Wheel Bolt: Varies
Max Recommended Tire Size: 35”

D53 Rear Axle:
Semi Floating
Vehicles: '55-'65 Willys pickup; '63-'69 Gladiator; '57-'65 FC-170
Ring Gear: 9.25"
Stock Gearing:
Axleshaft Spline: 20
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.31"
Brakes: Drum 11"
Weakness: Hard to find parts, low spline
Width: 65.5" (Gladitaor), 63" (Others)
Wheel Bolt: 5x5.5"
Max Recommended Tire Size: 35"

D60 Rear Axle:
Semi/Full Floating
Vehicles: ‘67-‘69 1/2 & 3/4 Ton Ford Pickups; ’69-’87 J-2000/J-20; ‘72-‘93 3/4 Ton Dodge Pickups
Ring Gear: 9.75”
Stock Gearing 4.10, 4.56
Axleshaft Spline: 30
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.31”
Brakes: Drum 12”
Weakness:
Width: 65.5” (J-2000/J-20), Full Width (Ford, Dodge & Chevy)
Wheel Bolt: 8x6.5”
Max Recommended Tire Size: 42”

D70 Rear Axle:
Full Floating
Vehicles:’58-’68 FC-170 w/dual rear wheels; ’63-’68 J-3000 w/dual rear wheels; ’67-’69 M-715; CJ-10; '72-‘93 3/4 & 1 Ton Dodge Pickups; ‘76-‘77 3/4 Ton Ford Pickups; ‘77-‘87 1 Ton Chevrolet Pickups; ‘78-‘79 1 Ton Ford Pickups
Ring Gear: 10.5”
Stock Gearing: 4.10, 4.56
Axleshaft Spline: 23, 35
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.5”
Brakes: Drum 13”
Weakness: Poor parts availability
Width: 59” (FC & Pickup), 72” (M-715), Full Width (Ford, Dodge and Chevy)
Wheel Bolt: 6x7.25” (M-715), 8x6.5” (others)
Max Recommended Tire Size: 44”

AMC20 Rear Axle:
Semi Floating
Vehicles: ’76-’86 CJ; ’76-’91 Wagoneer and J-10
Ring Gear: 8.875”
Stock Gearing: 2.76, 3.07
Axleshaft Spline: 20
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.31”
Brakes: Drum 11”
Weakness: 2 piece axleshafts (CJ only), tubes spin, 20 spline
Width: 50.5” (’76-’81 CJ), 54.5” (’82-’86 CJ), 59” (Wagoneer), 65.5” (J-Series)
Wheel Bolt: 5x5.5” (CJ), 6x5.5” (Wagoneer and J-Series)
Max Recommended Tire Size: 33”-35”

Chrysler 8.25 Rear Axle:
C-clip
Vehicles: '91-'01 XJ
Ring Gear: 8.25”
Stock Gearing: 3.55, 3.73, 4.10
Axleshaft Spline: 27 ('91-'96), 29 ('96-'01)
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.17” (27 spline), 1.21 (29 spline)
Brakes: Drum 11”
Weakness: 27 spline, c-clip
Width: 60.5”
Wheel Bolt: 5x4.5”
Max Recommended Tire Size: 35”

Ford 8.8 Rear Axle
C-clip
Vehicles: Ford Explorer (Prefered Swap, information reflects Explorer only), Ford F-Series , Ford Ranger
Ring Gear: 8.8"
Stock Gearing: 3.08, 3.27, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10
Axleshaft Spline: 28, 31
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.320"
Brakes: Drum ('91-'94), Disc ('95-'01)
Weakness: C-clip, weak carrier
Width: 59.625" to 65.6"
Wheel Bolt: Most 5x4.5"
Max Recommended Tire Size: 40"


AXLE STRENGHTS:
COT - Continuous Output Torque
MOT - Maximum Output Torque

Dana 35 ........................ COT: 870 MOT: 3480
AMC 20 .........................
Chrysler 8.25 .................
Dana 53 ........................
Dana 44 ........................ COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28 spline ........... COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31 spline ........... COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana 60 semifloat ........... COT: 1500 MOT: 5500
Dana 70 ........................
Rockwell 2.5 Ton ............ Industructable


IDENTIFICATION:
Tag Identification:
D30: “30” cast into back of diff casing on top right and left next to diff cover. Tag bolted on diff cover with axle ID and gear ratio.
D35: “35” cast into back of diff casing on top right and left next to diff cover. “C” next to “35” DOES NOT stand for c-clip, but “custom” (unfinished by Spicer). Tag bolted on diff cover with axle ID and gear ratio.
D44: In most cases “44” into back of diff casing on top right and left next to diff cover. Tag bolted on diff cover with axle ID and gear ratio.
D60: Similar looking casing to the D44, except the oil fill plug is elevated to provide more fluid for the larger gears.
Chrysler 8.25: Tag wrapped around passenger side tube with axle ID and gear ratio.
Ford 8.8: See Joe Dillard and T.Dome's writeup linked at the bottom of the page

Differential Cover Identification:
AMC 20: 12 cover bolts, round cover, fill plug not present
D27: 10 cover bolts, oval with straight sides, distinguished ring gear extension, low fill plug
D30: 10 cover bolts (five on top, five on bottom), oval cover w/flat sides, fill plug just below centerline
D35: 10 cover bolts, evenly spaced, oval "dome" shaped cover with low fill plug
D44: 10 cover bolts, hexagon shaped cover with very round edges, fill plug on centerline
D60: 10 cover bolts, hexagon shaped cover, fill plug on centerline
D70: 10 cover bolts, hexagon shaped cover, fill plug on centerline
Chrystler 8.25: 10 cover bolts, oval shaped cover, fill plug just below centerline
Ford 8.8: 10 cover bolts, square with very round edges, fill plug not present on cover




Gear Identification:
If the gears are unidentifiable from the tag or if the tag is missing, there are two methods to find the gear ratio.

1) Spin the tire one full rotation and watch how far the driveshaft rotates. Double the amount the driveshaft rotated, this gives you your gear ratio. Be sure you are spinning the tire forwards.

2) Count ring & pinion gears: Count the number of teeth on the ring and the pinion. Then divide the ring teeth by the pinion teeth to attain the gear ratio.


USEFUL LINKS
Identification information along with applications outside the Jeep family can be found here

Very informational thread by OhioYJ covering the Jeep, GM, Ford and Chrystler axles at cdmfabrication

All the information you could ever need pertaining to the Ford 8.8 by Joe Dillard and T.Dome

More information better encompasing years and qualities of the D60 and Ford 9"

A writeup by Tomb Raider on axle u-joint replacement

Another writeup by OhioYJ also on u-joint replacement



Now there was a ton of typing in there and a lot of numbers, so feel free to correct me if you see a misprint or mislabeled information. Also, if you have any information to add, please let me know and I will go about adding it.
__________________
- Cameron

Axle Information Thread
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Unread 08-17-2007, 12:55 PM   #14
Ares
Registered User
1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ellensburg/Redmond, WA
Posts: 1,363
Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) & Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft

Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) & Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft


What do they do?
The two combined work to eliminate u-joint vibs caused by improper driveshaft angles by replacing the first u-joint on the rear driveshaft with a cv and in turn the SYE eliminates the slip yoke from the transfer case, bolting the driveshaft directly to the housing.

Why would I need them?
The setup is recommended for lifts exceeding 4” to reduce possible vibrations that can be had. In addition with vibrations you can get from larger lifts, you also will generally need a longer driveshaft then stock, which you can get with a CV driveshaft. The setup is also useful to eliminate the need for a transfer case drop kit.


How much does a SYE kit cost?
You can find SYE kits for as little as $180 and up to $300 depending on where you look. Searching more then just Quadratec is a good start to finding a inexpensive, yet high quality kit.

How much does a CV driveshaft cost?
Depending on what route you decide to take, the driveshaft can cost you anywhere from $100 to $400. There are many brands out there, most of which are good quality, tried and true products. Buying a pre-designed driveshaft will run you $200-$400, while modifying an XJ driveshaft can cost you as little as $80, depending on your skill and initial price of attaining the driveshaft.


How do I make the XJ driveshaft work? What am I looking for?
You want a front driveshaft from a 91-95 XJ, which are confirmed to work well. Others from the XJ may fit, but the newer the driveshaft the better in order to have as new of a CV joint as possible. The driveshaft which can be attained for around $50 needs to be cut down to length and re-balanced, which will generally run another $50. That’s all there is too it. The only thing that truly matters aside from the years in this selection is that the XJ is a 4wd vehicle.

Will the XJ driveshaft hold up?
Having a qualified welder/shop to sleeve and balance your shaft is key if you want your shaft to last. A properly welded and balanced XJ shaft will outlast your Jeep

What is a Tom Woods?
Tom Woods is a very beefy CV driveshaft, and fairly expensive to boot. Many people enjoy the quality and the state of mind the driveshaft gives them.

How do I know what length of driveshaft I need?
The ONLY way to tell what length of driveshaft your setup requires is to get under your rig and measure. No person can tell you the exact length. You need to measure from where the center of the u-joint would be on the transfer case to the same point on the pinion yoke. This is the length your driveshaft needs to be. Almost all driveshafts you can order are custom built to your specifications, so you need this measurement.

How does an SYE install?
The SYE replaces the output housing on your transfer case. Installation of the kits can be done by a moderately skilled individual and should take about an hour. Follow the instructions in the kit.

You Tube video showing the installation of a SYE on a NP231
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__________________
- Cameron

Axle Information Thread
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Unread 10-22-2007, 04:52 PM   #15
smitkev2
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Auburn, Alabama
Posts: 200
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Your Answers Are Usually Here!

If your anything like me, not mechanically inclidned, then hopefully you'll appreciate my process of the nutter bypass. This seemed way over my head, but this is the easiest thing you can really do to help the performance. My jeep '90 4.2 increased beyond my expectations.

I have never done anything remotely similar to this. This took me 4 hours because I was VERY methodical in what I was doing, tracing wire 3 times to make sure, checking the link (in step 1) 4 & 5 times before I cut a wire "just to make sure" I really didn't want to screw the pooch on this. I did it with 100% success

The most time consuming and problematic part of the enitre process is getting the wires back in the loom. Which is the most mindless part, which is good!

Seriously, ANYONE can do this! If I can do it... YOU can do it.










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