I've had a few people ask me about relocating brake lines lately so I figured I would start a thread on it. I'm missing one of the pictures of the rear so ill be editing this first post a couple times so bear with me.
I came upon the process by being cheap and during one of the many hours of just staring at my jeep it came to me to just pull the lines down so I didn't have to go through the hassle of buying extended brake lines and bleeding the brakes, two things that after purchasing and installing a lift are just not on the docket, like doing a TC drop unless its absolutely necessary. So here goes:
Passenger side is the first one I end up doing because I always start lift installs on tr passenger front for some odd reason. This is pretty easy to locate and unbolt the bracket on the top of the frame in front of the shock mount. It's an annoying little torx bolt that needs an extension or ten to access from under the hood. It is pretty easy to extract if you can get a good bite on it. I pull the line out of the plastic holder located a couple inches toward the radiator and down along the side of the frame rail to a hole that was formerly occupied by the plastic splash guards between the frame and inner fender likewise.
Note: The same torx screw was reused in this application.
This one is a little tougher but if you're mid lift install then it should be a piece of cake. While the shocks are off, pop the hood and unbolt the stock airbox if your year had it installed on the inner fender. Move it aside and pry the inner fender out so you can get a clear line of sight on the torx boot holding the drivers side line to the frame. A third hand was needed on my last adventure to be honest. Remove said screw and take the caliper off the brake assembly. Just unbolt it but do not take the hydraulic line loose!! Carefully reroute the line around the front of the shock tower paying special attention to the clips holding the lines tight to the frame. I then drilled a hole behind where the shock resides and used a self tapper to secure it to the frame. Looking like this:
The rear lines are a little easier and sometimes just bending the sheet metal bracket down to a position somewhat parallel to the ground will not only give extra slack but also put the line in a situation that if the line was to overextend, the bracket would bend more instead of the line shearing and problems arising.
If these little tricks do not give you the slack you need for flex then you'll have to get some extended lines. I run the goodridge lines because they're only $35 and they work. Just make sure that before you hit the trails that you flex out the suspension completely and make sure you're in the clear. Your brakelines are as much limiting straps as your shocks should be bumpstops. Just because you're cutting cost doesn't mean you can cut corners. The aforementioned relocations work quite well for the Old Man Emu 36r springs all around and were tested on two jeeps with that setup. One had more than a forklift test on a pretty good trail a month later.
Even though my Jeep is down, I'd like to do this to at least give me time to replenish the Jeep funds. Can anything be done on the rear? My fronts are OK for road driving, by my rear is really tight. I already popped it off of the exhaust dampener... just curious if there was anything further. Good write up
My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:
Hey, thanks for pointing me to this thread. The thing that I am having an issue with is actually the parking brake more than the normal brake lines in the back. They are getting maxed out a couple inches before anything else and are stopping me from installing some extended boomerang shackles. Any tips/experience?
I did this before I saw this thread. I wish I'd seen it first, you've got good advice.
I did two things different:
1: I made a tool to remove the torx bolt from the driver's side bracket. Because there is no way to get a bit straight down into the bolt without removing the fender, I cut a torx bit into a little nib, then used a ratchet wrench to turn the nib while I held it into the head of the bolt with my fingertip. It turned out to be way easier this way, and I was able to do it from outside the engine bay.
2: I cut the driver's side line and positioned it behind the shock tower after re-flaring it. I WOULD NOT recommend trying to get the line around the shock tower without cutting it. With as much bending as you have to do to the line to get it to come back that far, you're seriously compromising the structural integrity of the line. Go to an auto parts store and rent a flare tool. It's easy to do. I had to flare mine twice but I got it.
Also, I don't mean to hijack, but do Jeeps come with the bumpstops able to hit the axle? I wonder if my flex is being limited unnecessarily by the bumpstop extenders that are welded to my axles. You can see what I am talking about in the above picture. It's right behind the shock in the lower left part of the picture.
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